The dyneema rope on the Dynabar's are super durable!
The rope is a spliced 4mm SK7 dyneema, rated at 1250Kg.
I have had the outer sheath wear through (extreme wear, see below) and nil breakages before changing it out a few weeks later.
Obviously I wouldn't advise not replacing worn gear, but to me it shows how darn strong the rope is.
Running double ropes through your chicken loop is crazy overkill; you may as well double line your kite as well.
If I was wanting to use a short leash, I would run another dyneema line like below (picking up the pre-drillled holes).
Was about to order one then thought maybe I can modify a spare long ozone leash, cut either end off, added a pig tail and carabiner, looks fairly legit, took 5 minutes.
Got 20 knot southerly blowing now to give it a run.
Select to expand quotedingojack said..
I guess for a guy that, and i quote :
" I know it works before I leave the beach, because I have to assemble it each time I launch, AND I use it every time I land my kite. When was the last time you checked that your primary safety releases easily and properly? The Ozone release is ultra reliable and has no known issues, and I test my one is functioning 2 times each session.
you sure fckd that up 
www.seabreeze.com.au/images/forums/icon_smile_big.gifhttps://www.seabreeze.com.au/images/forums/icon_smile_big.gif' />
When I said
" I know it works before I leave the beach, because I have to assemble it each time I launch, AND I use it every time I land my kite. When was the last time you checked that your primary safety releases easily and properly? The Ozone release is ultra reliable and has no known issues, and I test my one is functioning 2 times each session.
I was 100% correct, there is no error in that statement at all.
I agree with you cool guy, if the rope in the first pic broke you would be 100% safe, your kite....well who knows
Hey Luther, where art thou brother ? perhaps you would engage us all with your recent mishap?? 
Select to expand quoteI agree with you cool guy, if the rope in the first pic broke you would be 100% safe, your kite....well who knows
Thats the near new 1000kg+ breaking strain dyneema rope? Not likely to break is it. Depending where I am, when it broke I may not be 100% safe either, in fact I don't think I'm 100% safe even when I hide under my bed.
This is how I had been riding prior to starting this thread, I just wanted to make it look more neat and simple, so I changed it and actually rode for 2 hrs like that yesterday, but thanks to Dafish's sharp eyes, its fixed now.
The RE carbon spreader has these slots in each end, no need to drill it, so I threaded some line through and attached the short leash.
your such a jackass
yeah released to first safety when caught in the soup, but steering line must of had some slack in it and pinged off my leash safety. Runaway kite now in front of the line gets a little air and cleans up a poley. Luckily for me he thought i was trying to get his attention or he thought it was the latest love making move by gay kiters, albeit either way he didn't beat the sht out of me.....so i think it would be fair to say " a runaway kite will either make you or break you " 
Select to expand quotesurfingboye said..
I have had the outer sheath wear through ...
Not sheathed. The Dynabar rope is a single length of dyneema, with an eye splice at one end and the bury is the entire length. You're lucky the worn through "outer" line bunched up and stopped the eye from slipping past the pin...
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..surfingboye said..
I have had the outer sheath wear through ...
Not sheathed. The Dynabar rope is a single length of dyneema, with an eye splice at one end and the bury is the entire length. You're lucky the worn through "outer" line bunched up and stopped the eye from slipping past the pin...
Mmmmhhh, good to know.
Glad I'm still alive.
I coincidently went back to my dynabar setup recently. Mines the same as terrymacs first pic but double up on th rings and attached leash around my spreader bar separately.
Two rings made the sliding action much smoother and I imagine less wear possibly.
Why do you put the leash in suicide on those setups?
Also if my chicken loop jams, do I call it a death chicken?
Surfingboye, having had my rope snap a long way off shore I realized that I needed some backup. I tried riding back unhooked but the wind was too strong. I tried all kinds of things to hook up temporarily just to get me back into the impact zone. In the end I had to release the whole thing and paddle in. A second backup rope would have been handy. I don't think it's over kill and it certainly doesn't get in the way nor add much weight. The things we learn the hard way :(
Select to expand quotetechtonic said..
I coincidently went back to my dynabar setup recently. Mines the same as terrymacs first pic but double up on th rings and attached leash around my spreader bar separately.
Two rings made the sliding action much smoother and I imagine less wear possibly.
Why do you put the leash in suicide on those setups?
Also if my chicken loop jams, do I call it a death chicken?
I'll try the 2 rings, and I'm getting some more rope this weekend when I'm in Sydney, there is a shop there with poor security I'm planning to steal it from. I run it in suicide (poor name IMO) or no dangle mode, because I don't like the way the leash flops around when its just connected separately. The leash does nothing either mode until the primary safety is fired when the chicken loop is directly connected to a ring.
I think you need to die in order to call it a death chicken, so maybe a scary chicken until then?
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..surfingboye said..
I have had the outer sheath wear through ...
Not sheathed. The Dynabar rope is a single length of dyneema, with an eye splice at one end and the bury is the entire length. You're lucky the worn through "outer" line bunched up and stopped the eye from slipping past the pin...
If you use a spliced 4 mm dyneema rope (as Dynabar) and you check it regularly there is no chance the rope to snap during your session. The spliced eye on the end is self-locking and there is always enough buried tail to keep the eye locked during kiting since the outer sheath wears mostly in the middle and snaps there. 20 x rope diameter (4 mm) = 8 cm buried tails is pretty enough for the eye to hold the load during kiting. Here is a picture of my Dynabar rope before I changed it.
I am using a slightly modified Dyneema bar with a sliding and a fixed ring. For installing the fixed ring I drilled a hole in the middle of my Dynabar.
For 'park and ride'/'wave powered' wave riding I connect the QR to the sliding ring and the 'safety' leash to the fixed ring.
For 'kite powered' wave riding or freeriding I connect the QR to the fixed ring which gives me slightly more control and the 'safety' leash to the sliding ring. The fixed ring is a better option then the Dynabar fixed U locker since it completely eliminates the torque load on the spreader bar in all directions. I do not use the bulky pad below the spreader bar since it is completely useless for my setup.
The QR and CL connected to different ropes gives me peace of mind that I will never loose my kite because of a snapped rope. If I want additional safety in gnarly conditions I can connect both to the sliding ring and I can use the Dynabar release system to completely dump the kite very quickly.
I use a self made super small CL which allows me (together with the compact Naish QR) to extend my bar's trimming length. Having more depower throw is very valuable to completely kill the power of the kite during wave riding or in very gusty conditions.
I use also a super short (self shortened) 'safety' leash since I found that with the sliding ring even the short Cabrinha leash is long enough to catch my bar end (happened once).
Interesting topic. Kinda shows that maybe with the manufacturers, that its time too produce specific discipline bars per kite intened use, or at least, racebar vs surf bar vs flicky bar. (Although I realise the post is more directed to harness mods). We dont take to our canopies with scissors to modify aspect r's, we buy the specific model kite, but its considered accepted practice to re config safety systems and modify bars. Not saying its wrong, quite the opposite. Just an interesting observation, shows the sport has not finished evolving
Select to expand quoteloftsofwind said..
Why wouldn’t you chuck some plastic tubing around the rope.
Bye bye rope wear
You could do that, but I'd advise against it.
There have been countless accidents in kiting (including large single line novelty/display kites) and yachting, using sheathed ropes, because the user cannot see any wear that occurs due to the action of the sliding load or pulley wheel and contamination with sand or even salt crystals. Its happend to me in buggying, and I've seen it happen with large and potentially very dangerous when let loose, single line kites, etc. The open braided rope is the best option for this type of application, because the wear is visible.
@DimiSUP
Although its highly unlikely, because as you said the outer rope on the Dynabar ropes, tend to break in the middle. For the eye to lease from the pin, all of that mangled/frazzled outer rope would need to get pulled through the small hole in the bar AND around the pin. I think just the fact that there are 2 changes in direction and the small hole in the spreader where the rope goes through would prevent the outer rope from ever slipping, but technically its possible. I'd recommend changing the Dynabar rope just a bit sooner than when its completely broken the outer sheath! Or make your own with the 4/5mm dyneema most good kite shops sell as replacement rope for broken uncovered centre line.
I like your fixed centre ring option, easy to do and use as the leash connection point until you want to ride TT or race, then just swap c-loop and leash positions, nice!
I'm paranoid 
20x is not enough: 20x for a 2mm line would be only a 40mm bury...! For makers who splice the eyes, 10cm is normal -- and they stitch the tail.
Lowest I've read is 40x with a Brummell, most common being 72x diameter. If you're not stitching or using a locking splice, you're risking the loop pulling out when the line is unloaded; the tail will hold tight so long as there's a load on it. I notice your plastic grommet has gone too.
I like the center ring, that's a great idea for a back up. Could be left attached but neatly stowed until needed too
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
I'm paranoid
20x is not enough: 20x for a 2mm line would be only a 40mm bury...! For makers who splice the eyes, 10cm is normal -- and they stitch the tail.
Lowest I've read is 40x with a Brummell, most common being 72x diameter...
You are correct - 72 x diameter for maximum safety by the locked Brummel eye (no stitching required) BUT that is for MAXIMUM direct load which is 90-100% of the rope rated load which would be in our case 1125-1250 kg for the Dynabar Dyneema rope ('spliced 4mm SK7 1250Kg').
Now try to calculate what will the load of the eye in the Dynabar having in mind that the load is divided in both ends and part of load is taken by the spreader bar (since the rope goes through the holes). I am pretty sure that even during draging the kiter's body in the water the load is much, much less then 1000 kg.
20 times is pretty common in practice:
It's not the loading, it's the UNloading... the Brummell or stitching are used only to keep the tail from sliding out when there's slack in the line. When there's load on, the tail is held in by the power of Chinese finger puzzle I wouldn't bother doi either for the rope slider. And he says AT LEAST 20 times 
Yes, better to use a full length spliced line... and change it sooner! A couple of dollars of line and a 5 minute splice is better than losing gear...
I am experimenting with these systems too....including no chicken loop, to bring bar in closer and easier arm extension to depower. Easy sliding...great for surfing.
Negatives: carabiner type self launch becomes difficult or impossible.
The comment about c loop release failure.....if ** is hitting the fan and it won't release. ...at least with standard hook you have the last resort of pulling out donkey dick and manually releasing.
I attach leash to the harness connection. ..definitely don't want this attached to sliding line....that is most likely fail point.
Ps I have been using dynabar 2 years with no drama. Buddy gets one and breaks rope first day. I guess the plastic grommet the line passes through in bar had broken. So a line under considerable force on a metal edge wore through quite quick. Something to watch for maybe.
Select to expand quotejuandesooka said..
I am experimenting with these systems too....including no chicken loop, to bring bar in closer and easier arm extension to depower. Easy sliding...great for surfing.
Negatives: carabiner type self launch becomes difficult or impossible.
The comment about c loop release failure.....if ** is hitting the fan and it won't release. ...at least with standard hook you have the last resort of pulling out donkey dick and manually releasing.
I attach leash to the harness connection. ..definitely don't want this attached to sliding line....that is most likely fail point.
To tether launch;
Use a snapshackle to quick connect the chicken loop, but use the standard chicken loop release for self landing and emergencies, like the pic from Kit33R on the previous page.
I used 1 of those grenade shackles on my first incarnation but found the CL latch would sometimes fowl after release. That was on a North Iron heart (square end). It was very convenient though.
I used 1 of those grenade shackles on my first incarnation but found the CL latch would sometimes fowl after release. That was on a North Iron heart (square end). It was very convenient though. Now, Tethered launch I just attach carabiner to the depower line between bar and QR, thread the CL through rings and reset
Select to expand quotetechtonic said..
I used 1 of those grenade shackles on my first incarnation but found the CL latch would sometimes fowl after release. That was on a North Iron heart (square end). It was very convenient though. Now, Tethered launch I just attach carabiner to the depower line between bar and QR, thread the CL through rings and reset
I'm guessing that at the time you are attaching yourself, if something happened and the kite powered up for some reason, you would have no way to depower the kite?
The kite is already depowered as per standard tether. Carabiner sits just above the QR on the depower rope.
(I think thats what your asking)
The bar is still fully sheeted out
Select to expand quotetechtonic said..
The kite is already depowered as per standard tether. Carabiner sits just above the QR on the depower rope.
(I think thats what your asking)
The bar is still fully sheeted out
I am using exactly the same technique to tether launch. Works just fine as the 'normal' tether launch when you connect the carabiner to the CL. Tether connected below the QR or just above the QR - no difference in kite behaviour at all. The only problem is that in some emergency situations you can not use the QR to disconnect the kite from the tether if you need to. But that problem is easily solved if you use a safety leash as tether as I do and hit the release of the leash if needed. Never happened to me though.
I don't get the carbon spreader setup?
With that ring thing on the safety that has the main loop through it, are you relying on the loop to come out of the metal ring if you pull the main safety?
Wouldn't it more than likely just get caught and not allow the safety to flag out the kite?
Please tell me what I'm missing.
Select to expand quoteTerryMcTool said...techtonic said..
I used 1 of those grenade shackles on my first incarnation but found the CL latch would sometimes fowl after release. That was on a North Iron heart (square end). It was very convenient though. Now, Tethered launch I just attach carabiner to the depower line between bar and QR, thread the CL through rings and reset
I'm guessing that at the time you are attaching yourself, if something happened and the kite powered up for some reason, you would have no way to depower the kite?
Oh okay now I understand...thanks also to dimiSUP.
I'll use my old long leash with the Carabina, to add a QR to the tether.
My short leash is Ozone incidently
AbsoluteBeginer: that is how it works mate and does not hang up on the rings when released.
