Refreshed the braincells.....
Epsom salts!!
High grade pure stuff - from a decent garden shop or nursery.
Cut the stump as close to the ground as you can.
Drill lots of holes in the stump - as deep as you can - extended length 3/4" or greater spade bit is good.
Skinny stumps are probably better with 1/2" holes.
Fill the holes to within about an inch from the top of the hole, plug with paraffin wax - or dribble candle wax into the holes to seal them.
Wrap the stump in a plastic bag, cover with dirt.
It does take a while, but the lack of sunlight combined with the Epsom salts will kill the tree stump and it's roots - without poisoning the surrounding ground.
Then, when you get bored - invite the crew around for a beers and bonfires party! 
Hey Macro, give Tordon a go for the woody stuff. I had some mates who used to use it for land clearing a while back, ie you leg it around with a backpack sprayer and an axe, cut the tree, spray in the Tordon, walk to the next tree ............. krap job but it paid their bills I guess.
Select to expand quotePaddles B'mere said..
Hey Macro, give Tordon a go for the woody stuff. I had some mates who used to use it for land clearing a while back, ie you leg it around with a backpack sprayer and an axe, cut the tree, spray in the Tordon, walk to the next tree ............. krap job but it paid their bills I guess.
Not much environmental sensitivity on display in this thread! Oh well, I sort of gave up hope that collectively the human race could pause at even a low level of eco-sustainability a while ago.
Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..
Don't worry. I know proper technique to fall the tree with hinges. That is one off unfortunate experiment goes wrong and jam my saw because a strong wind was in the wrong direction.For very small trees there is another technique - for 5- 10 cm diameter - that is not widely recommended but works fine. It is exremaly fast but not as safe as typical hinge.I also bought big mechanical stump removed 16 HP machine- but use only for stumps that need to be removed instantly. Other can be left to rot, just don't want double the work and re-cut already fallen trees. I will try then this Roundup as I bought plenty to kill Lantana.
Sorry mate,no you don't
There is never any need for a non-pro like us to use the upper part of the bar unless under-bucking a horizontal piece, and even then only with great care.
The pic you showed, displays a level of chainsaw misuse that would get you sacked at many workplaces.
Dangerous AF. No need to use top of bar there.
For a tree that size and with strong wind as you say, straight thru from the upwind side with the proper (underside) side of the bar would have done it.
I implore you to watch the FREE Stihl DVD at a minimum.
Na you dont have to watch safety video macro .
Just post photos in funny image's thread when it all goes bad .
Select to expand quotePaddles B'mere said..
give Tordon a go
wasn't Tordon banned not so long ago??
something to do with nasty side effects??
turns your liver blotchy green and your testicles migrate to your neck before dropping off [or summat like that]
Select to expand quotePaddles B'mere said..
Hey Macro, give Tordon a go for the woody stuff. I had some mates who used to use it for land clearing a while back, ie you leg it around with a backpack sprayer and an axe, cut the tree, spray in the Tordon, walk to the next tree ............. krap job but it paid their bills I guess.Select to expand quotePaddles B'mere said..
Hey Macro, give Tordon a go for the woody stuff. I had some mates who used to use it for land clearing a while back, ie you leg it around with a backpack sprayer and an axe, cut the tree, spray in the Tordon, walk to the next tree ............. krap job but it paid their bills I guess.
DONT USE TORDON !!!!!
Up there with Valpar for let's poison everything including the neighbors.
Use round up or bleach on the cut stump. I do this stuff professionally.
The TAFE course is fantastic. I did it before I bought a chainsaw, because, well, chainsaws are really fricking dangerous. Glad I did.
Yesterday I had a tree break off halfway up, and then the top branches got hung up in another tree. Sketch factor 5.
Luckily I could get to where it was broken by standing on another fallen log a couple of metres up. So I carefully cut the broken end off, which promptly pivoted down and stuck into the ground, so the tree was a fair bit more vertical this time. Sketch factor 7. Putting a rope around it and pulling it (from a safe distance) couldn't topple it, so I cut a bit more off it (using the top of the bar, so the bar wasn't crushed). It pivoted around more, and the end stuck into the ground. The trunk was now almost vertical, the top branches were still stuck in another tree. Sketch factor 9.
This caused me to step back and really evaluate how to defuse this situation. I did a lot of walking around the perimeter, having a very good look at where the forces were, and where it could possibly fall. Finally some advice from the tafe course came back to me, and I put a scarf into the trunk and then cut it from the other side... This was sketch factor 10. It's the worst situation to be in when you're chainsawing. I had my escape route planned out, had practiced in my head exactly what to do, and was hyper aware of what was going on. If you don't really know what you're doing then this would have looked quite safe. It really wasn't.
Luckily I'd evaluated the forces correctly, as the trunk started to buckle I scampered away, it sat there for a couple of seconds and then toppled perfectly. Situation defused.
Trust me, do the TAFE course. If nothing else it will teach you how to pull apart the chainsaw and give it a thorough clean. If I hadn't done it then I probably wouldn't have been able to safely defuse the situation yesterday.
Select to expand quotenebbian said..
The TAFE course is fantastic. I did it before I bought a chainsaw, because, well, chainsaws are really fricking dangerous. Glad I did.
Yesterday I had a tree break off halfway up, and then the top branches got hung up in another tree. Sketch factor 5.
Luckily I could get to where it was broken by standing on another fallen log a couple of metres up. So I carefully cut the broken end off, which promptly pivoted down and stuck into the ground, so the tree was a fair bit more vertical this time. Sketch factor 7. Putting a rope around it and pulling it (from a safe distance) couldn't topple it, so I cut a bit more off it (using the top of the bar, so the bar wasn't crushed). It pivoted around more, and the end stuck into the ground. The trunk was now almost vertical, the top branches were still stuck in another tree. Sketch factor 9.
This caused me to step back and really evaluate how to defuse this situation. I did a lot of walking around the perimeter, having a very good look at where the forces were, and where it could possibly fall. Finally some advice from the tafe course came back to me, and I put a scarf into the trunk and then cut it from the other side... This was sketch factor 10. It's the worst situation to be in when you're chainsawing. I had my escape route planned out, had practiced in my head exactly what to do, and was hyper aware of what was going on. If you don't really know what you're doing then this would have looked quite safe. It really wasn't.
Luckily I'd evaluated the forces correctly, as the trunk started to buckle I scampered away, it sat there for a couple of seconds and then toppled perfectly. Situation defused.
Trust me, do the TAFE course. If nothing else it will teach you how to pull apart the chainsaw and give it a thorough clean. If I hadn't done it then I probably wouldn't have been able to safely defuse the situation yesterday.
Great story!
Thats weird, I bought a stihl last summer and the standard deal with a stihl is a free service after 15 hours.
Why didn't you just get it done as part of that? Sounds like you did about 15 hours work with it
Cleaning my Stihl is never as much of a problem as trying to remember the correct sequence of actions required to get the damn thing started.
Push this, invert that, circle 3 times anti clockwise around the pub, lock that, then yank this.
By the time I've got it sussed and started it's dark and time to pack up
Me misses just doing some research Have a wonderful open wood fire centrepiece with hearth in house burns about 40-100 kilo of wood a night Was thinking about installing another slow combustion as the open fire is inefficient. for a slow combustion uninstalled 300+sq fireplace would cost over 3500-4000 installed. Prob get away with total installed diy of 3500.
Strongly considering rather than( cutting wood chainsawing etc bar oil two stroke oil fuel to place and time). be better spending that money on a solar set-up and running a reverse cycle Already have a 15amp reverse cycle installed which we use when cant be bothered light fire. With a growing family its difficult to justify buring wood. In the long run it would save money on power and the reverse cycle would be used not only in winter but summer. Being in a family environment a lot of power consumption is during the day What do you do!
Select to expand quotebusterwa said..
Me misses just doing some research Have a wonderful open wood fire centrepiece with hearth in house burns about 40-100 kilo of wood a night Was thinking about installing another slow combustion as the open fire is inefficient. for a slow combustion uninstalled 300+sq fireplace would cost over 3500-4000 installed. Prob get away with total installed diy of 3500.
Strongly considering rather than( cutting wood chainsawing etc bar oil two stroke oil fuel to place and time). be better spending that money on a solar set-up and running a reverse cycle Already have a 15amp reverse cycle installed which we use when cant be bothered light fire. With a growing family its difficult to justify buring wood. In the long run it would save money on power and the reverse cycle would be used not only in winter but summer. Being in a family environment a lot of power consumption is during the day What do you do!
I have now that much free wood that I am thinking of going the opposite way.
Once the battery is flat on my off-grid system I need to run a small petrol generator. But I am considering now the following design.Let's fill ordinary steel barrel filled with wood.That is about 200 kg or equivalent to 60 -70 liters of petrol.
Run small steam turbine, say 100W generator and the system should supply free electric energy for a week.
Considering even only 10 % efficiency of a steam turbine ( as opposed to 60 in pro systems) .I need to run now some tests, Could be a good solution for outback people,
I was in Kmart yesterday looking for some new thongs as I was about to do some chainsawing that afternoon. I couldn't find any that looked appropriate for chainsaw work so thought I'd ask here.
What sort of thongs do you all recommend for chainsawing? Are double pluggers really necessary? Are you better going with canvas straps and thick soles? Or will the traditional all-rubber design work? (It was good enough for grandad when they clear felled all the QLD cedar after all.)
Thanks, Shifu
i wear crocks and boardshorts as wood chips get caught in yah socks and have to trow them out.
Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..busterwa said..
Me misses just doing some research Have a wonderful open wood fire centrepiece with hearth in house burns about 40-100 kilo of wood a night Was thinking about installing another slow combustion as the open fire is inefficient. for a slow combustion uninstalled 300+sq fireplace would cost over 3500-4000 installed. Prob get away with total installed diy of 3500.
Strongly considering rather than( cutting wood chainsawing etc bar oil two stroke oil fuel to place and time). be better spending that money on a solar set-up and running a reverse cycle Already have a 15amp reverse cycle installed which we use when cant be bothered light fire. With a growing family its difficult to justify buring wood. In the long run it would save money on power and the reverse cycle would be used not only in winter but summer. Being in a family environment a lot of power consumption is during the day What do you do!
I have now that much free wood that I am thinking of going the opposite way.
Once the battery is flat on my off-grid system I need to run a small petrol generator. But I am considering now the following design.Let's fill ordinary steel barrel filled with wood.That is about 200 kg or equivalent to 60 -70 liters of petrol.
Run small steam turbine, say 100W generator and the system should supply free electric energy for a week.
Considering even only 10 % efficiency of a steam turbine ( as opposed to 60 in pro systems) .I need to run now some tests, Could be a good solution for outback people,
You may be interested in reading this:
www.thebackshed.com/forum/uploads/nofear/2010-09-13_165701_strathsteam.pdf
Select to expand quoteMobydisc said..Macroscien said..busterwa said..
Me misses just doing some research Have a wonderful open wood fire centrepiece with hearth in house burns about 40-100 kilo of wood a night Was thinking about installing another slow combustion as the open fire is inefficient. for a slow combustion uninstalled 300+sq fireplace would cost over 3500-4000 installed. Prob get away with total installed diy of 3500.
Strongly considering rather than( cutting wood chainsawing etc bar oil two stroke oil fuel to place and time). be better spending that money on a solar set-up and running a reverse cycle Already have a 15amp reverse cycle installed which we use when cant be bothered light fire. With a growing family its difficult to justify buring wood. In the long run it would save money on power and the reverse cycle would be used not only in winter but summer. Being in a family environment a lot of power consumption is during the day What do you do!
I have now that much free wood that I am thinking of going the opposite way.
Once the battery is flat on my off-grid system I need to run a small petrol generator. But I am considering now the following design.Let's fill ordinary steel barrel filled with wood.That is about 200 kg or equivalent to 60 -70 liters of petrol.
Run small steam turbine, say 100W generator and the system should supply free electric energy for a week.
Considering even only 10 % efficiency of a steam turbine ( as opposed to 60 in pro systems) .I need to run now some tests, Could be a good solution for outback people,
You may be interested in reading this:
www.thebackshed.com/forum/uploads/nofear/2010-09-13_165701_strathsteam.pdf
Fantastic reading, Mobydisk.I have some improvements in my mind. I will be using small Tesla turbine powered by steam in my model.
Thanks again.
It wouldn't suit my applications as a generated power source would need to cover fire fighting pumps during summer season(power first to loose in a fire) Down side with fire restriction and you wouldn't be able to generate power during warmer months where house cooling is required. Apart from that using the boiler to generate power while using it to heat your house is great idea. Im not sure on the overall cost pressure vessels I could imagine would be quite expensive and might have to be registered with on going pressure testing But it states on the document its below a certain cuttoff. I like the old cam eccentric driven motors What a little ripper that is. Huge Advantages are being able to generate power in remote location with just water and wood. Saves transporting large amounts of fuel. Previously every think was steam driven from trains to workshops of the industrial revolution
Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..Mobydisc said..Macroscien said..busterwa said..
Me misses just doing some research Have a wonderful open wood fire centrepiece with hearth in house burns about 40-100 kilo of wood a night Was thinking about installing another slow combustion as the open fire is inefficient. for a slow combustion uninstalled 300+sq fireplace would cost over 3500-4000 installed. Prob get away with total installed diy of 3500.
Strongly considering rather than( cutting wood chainsawing etc bar oil two stroke oil fuel to place and time). be better spending that money on a solar set-up and running a reverse cycle Already have a 15amp reverse cycle installed which we use when cant be bothered light fire. With a growing family its difficult to justify buring wood. In the long run it would save money on power and the reverse cycle would be used not only in winter but summer. Being in a family environment a lot of power consumption is during the day What do you do!
I have now that much free wood that I am thinking of going the opposite way.
Once the battery is flat on my off-grid system I need to run a small petrol generator. But I am considering now the following design.Let's fill ordinary steel barrel filled with wood.That is about 200 kg or equivalent to 60 -70 liters of petrol.
Run small steam turbine, say 100W generator and the system should supply free electric energy for a week.
Considering even only 10 % efficiency of a steam turbine ( as opposed to 60 in pro systems) .I need to run now some tests, Could be a good solution for outback people,
You may be interested in reading this:
www.thebackshed.com/forum/uploads/nofear/2010-09-13_165701_strathsteam.pdf
Fantastic reading, Mobydisk.I have some improvements in my mind. I will be using small Tesla turbine powered by steam in my model.
Thanks again.
Why are you trying to re-invent the steam engine?
It should be noted in that article that the guy says that if you can get mains power, you are better off doing that.
I can't imagine that having hundreds of litres of pressurised boiling water is a great thing to do as a DIYer. I do lots of things myself, but that's a point where I wouldn't go as the potential for damage is high, unless you are building it to a to standard, which we know you won't be. If you were, you would be better off buying it from the guy that is already selling it anyway.
Select to expand quote
FormulaNova said..
Why are you trying to re-invent the steam engine?
YOu may reconsider if you take into consideration that my proposed design:
-desired output - 100W /24v DC - which is just enough to get my outback cabin going while solar battery get flat
_size wise similar to common 200 L steel barrel- most for the wood/ fuel
-simplistic design turbine with flat disks ( based on quantum interference technology
-I hope that design even manufactured product should cost few hundred dollar- just perfect for low-income countries.Simplicity and low maintenance and low cost is the key.Some basic electronic controller from your beloved Arudino word is a must.It should be load and forget. Simply load to the barrel as much wood as it fits and controller automatically deliver only so much air to keep combustion and power output limited. Recycled , condensation water - 1 element of green efficiency.Secondary , high-temperature combusion - lower emmision to minimum from this wood burner.So design beside simplicity is really hi-tech XXI technology , not reinveting centuries old steam motors.
Select to expand quoteMacroscien said..
FormulaNova said..
Why are you trying to re-invent the steam engine?
YOu may reconsider if you take into consideration that my proposed design:
-desired output - 100W /24v DC - which is just enough to get my outback cabin going while solar battery get flat
_size wise similar to common 200 L steel barrel- most for the wood/ fuel
-simplistic design turbine with flat disks ( based on quantum interference technology-I hope that design even manufactured product should cost few hundred dollar- just perfect for low-income countries.Simplicity and low maintenance and low cost is the key.Some basic electronic controller from your beloved Arudino word is a must.It should be load and forget. Simply load to the barrel as much wood as it fits and controller automatically deliver only so much air to keep combustion and power output limited. Recycled , condensation water - 1 element of green efficiency.Secondary , high-temperature combusion - lower emmision to minimum from this wood burner.So design beside simplicity is really hi-tech XXI technology , not reinveting centuries old steam motors.
Oh sorry, I thought you were talking about something you were actually going to do.
No problem. Continue as you were.
Have you thought about adding lasers?
Just make sure you install a dedicated PRV pressure relief vale. else might end up with a sunroof
Select to expand quotebusterwa said..
Just make sure you install a dedicated PRV pressure relief vale. else might end up with a sunroof
right I want to build a generator here, not a rocket!I think that the ordinary copper coil should give me 10 bars safely.
Select to expand quotebusterwa said..
Just make sure you install a dedicated PRV pressure relief vale. else might end up with a sunroof
Mmmmm Mythbusters did a great version, one of my favourite blasts
Its all good macro Just highlighting the dangers of energy dissipation thru a pressure vessel. you would need extensive knowledge in both electrical and mechanical systems. . Im not sure on your background but there must be a considerable knowledge base. That system is not for the average utuber
!
Can't believe this is Stihl going
Macro, given your chainsaw technique maybe forget your latest plan.
When I was a kid, a factory made water heater (externally mounted) blew up at my footy club. Brick building, normal household 150-200L ish water heater. It demolished the building and killed people.
For god's sake don't build stuff and say normal copper "should be" good for 10bar.
FFS
