4x4's, caravans, now welders..
I found a thread from 2 years ago covering pretty much what I was after, but too old to leave a question.
A few of you had purchased the new invertor stick welders, and or mig, at the time so I was hoping for some feedback.
I'm almost ashamed to say i'm 46 and never had a welder, but nows the time to man up and buy one.
My dad always had an old CIG transformer stick welder that seemed to get used for everything, inc 20ft boat trailer frames.
So an invertor equivalent version was what I had planned to buy.
I'd prefer to buy something once and hopefully reasonably decent, and ideally would like to be able to play with panel steel to normal gal tube for gates, etc. Having a boat means theres always the opportunity to want to do stainless steel if that's an option later.
I checked with Alltools outlet (pretty much a WOT), and have seen Unimig, Cig and Razorweld.
The local welding store is suggesting one of the Unimig combination welders that's mig also (gasless), but the more I look into it, the less I know if mig is the way to go.
I've done some basic oxy welding and a little stick welding, but lets say total novice.
So if you've got a budget of $500 to $1,200 and were looking for your first welder for general diy work, what would you go for?
Other than what you listed,the Lincoln 180 looks good, the BOC 150n looks a bit light, but my mate swears by it as his gasless outdoor mig.
It almost like you need recommendations from people that are using the current models because most of the respected brands are made in china over the last 5 years or so.
I use a cig Transmig 175I
Does the lot
Settings can be twitchy
But once you get it dialed it burns trouble free all day
(I mostly do light gauge stuff <12mm and run gasless)
Select to expand quotetheDoctor said..
I use a cig Transmig 175I
Does the lot
Settings can be twitchy
But once you get it dialed it burns trouble free all day
(I mostly do light gauge stuff <12mm and run gasless)
How do you find gasless in general?
I got an lincoln electric 180 came with gasless wire for doing steel.
Its great especially as its only small and has a high power out put ( wind it up for gal no grinding needed)
I also got a bottle of argon gas and a separate aluminium spool gun for the once in 100 years that I do alloy.
But gasless mig is easy, reliable and cheapish.
^^the Lincoln 180 comes up a bit, sounds like it might be ok, ok.
The other thing I've come to realize is pretty much all machines around this size need 15A power, which if you used it around, may limit its use.
Alltools had a small adapter that somehow got around this, I think for a few hundred $$ ?
I'm not sure how it could let you draw the 15 A needed from a 10A protected powerpoint?
A couple of the combo machines had like an 'auto' function that was meant to set the speed and power up for you.
thanks fellas
Select to expand quoteRex said...theDoctor said..
How do you find gasless in general?
Better now than 10yr ago
Handy for outside work
Need to burn a bit longer when tacking
Flux appears to float off the pool while hot so i don't think inclusion is much of a problem.
But that's only a lazy observation
Select to expand quotecrustysailor said...
^^the Lincoln 180 comes up a bit, sounds like it might be ok, ok.
The other thing I've come to realize is pretty much all machines around this size need 15A power, which if you used it around, may limit its use.
Alltools had a small adapter that somehow got around this, I think for a few hundred $$ ?
I'm not sure how it could let you draw the 15 A needed from a 10A protected powerpoint?
A couple of the combo machines had like an 'auto' function that was meant to set the speed and power up for you.
thanks fellas
I have a 15A lead with a 10A plug for places that don't have 15A sockets.
Never had a problem
As long as everything in the house isn't all running at once
^^ Agreed I have run old CIG Transarc Easywelder and now a gasless MIG off 10A sockets, no drama.
They say gasless splatters too much, but really it is not that bad. the finished product may need a touch with a sanding disk in the grinder if you are doing a fussy job.
The splatter is more likely to burn things nearby (hot tiny balls roll a along way on the bench) and I found out the hard way. But don't weld in thongs next to a plastic bag and you'll be fine 
Got a CIG Weldskill gas / gasless and it is great. (Reminds me, if going for a MIG for home use, pay the extra $50 for one that can use gas later if u want, you never know when u may want to try ally or stainless welding)
Select to expand quotecrustysailor said..
4x4's, caravans, now welders..
I found a thread from 2 years ago covering pretty much what I was after, but too old to leave a question.
A few of you had purchased the new invertor stick welders, and or mig, at the time so I was hoping for some feedback.
I'm almost ashamed to say i'm 46 and never had a welder, but nows the time to man up and buy one.
My dad always had an old CIG transformer stick welder that seemed to get used for everything, inc 20ft boat trailer frames.
So an invertor equivalent version was what I had planned to buy.
I'd prefer to buy something once and hopefully reasonably decent, and ideally would like to be able to play with panel steel to normal gal tube for gates, etc. Having a boat means theres always the opportunity to want to do stainless steel if that's an option later.
I checked with Alltools outlet (pretty much a WOT), and have seen Unimig, Cig and Razorweld.
The local welding store is suggesting one of the Unimig combination welders that's mig also (gasless), but the more I look into it, the less I know if mig is the way to go.
I've done some basic oxy welding and a little stick welding, but lets say total novice.
So if you've got a budget of $500 to $1,200 and were looking for your first welder for general diy work, what would you go for?
as an ex-boily, my advice is to stay the hell away from unimig and cig (unless it's a very old cig machine). if you want to buy a welder once, buy a kemppi, wia, miller or lincoln.
get a decent invertor and you can stick and tig weld with it. there's no need to run wire unless you're welding all day and need to put a lot of glue into the job in a short amount of time.
as others have said, convert a short 15 amp lead by putting a 10 amp male socket end on it. don't cut the 15 amp plug off the machine and replace it or you'll run into warranty issues if something goes wrong.
by the way there is no such thing as a 'gasless mig'. mig stands for metal inert gas welding. no gas - no mig. it's called flux cored arc welding.
and it's not 'splatter' that runs into your boots and burns holes in the crooks of your elbows - it's 'spatter'.
i'll just climb down off my soap box now....
Sorry Stamp (ex-boily), but the boilies where I worked recommended I but one of these. Little ripper. I treat it nicely and hasn't failed me yet and at just $315, seem like a good option for a beginner. You just need to take out a bank loan when buying the S/Steel welding rods.
sydneytools.com.au/cigweld-w1002901-weldskill-170-240v-inverter-dc-welder?fee=4&fep=2850&gclid=CNj68bGojMwCFRRvvAodyuMKWQ
Shout yourself a helmet with Auto Darkening, you'll never regret it. But get a good one.
Had this for about 10 years now but I TIG a lot of S/S and alloy. Expensive but will last a lifetime.
^ a sweet machine i want one but i bet it is more like 3-5000 grand, i have the fronius caddy and it has done ten years now too and it has done a $h×tload of welding/tigging
ps for all the novice welders out there heres a $$$ saving tip, after consultation with several companies on boat building projects we stopped buying "weld all" rods (steel to stainless) and used "316" rods at a third of the price with no structural penalties, in laymens terms use 316 rods to weld s/s to steel and it will be no weaker!!!!
Had this for about 10 years now but I TIG a lot of S/S and alloy. Expensive but will last a lifetime.
Select to expand quotecrustysailor said..
4x4's, caravans, now welders.. I found a thread from 2 years ago covering pretty much what I was after, but too old to leave a question. A few of you had purchased the new invertor stick welders, and or mig, at the time so I was hoping for some feedback. I'm almost ashamed to say i'm 46 and never had a welder, but nows the time to man up and buy one. My dad always had an old CIG transformer stick welder that seemed to get used for everything, inc 20ft boat trailer frames. So an invertor equivalent version was what I had planned to buy. I'd prefer to buy something once and hopefully reasonably decent, and ideally would like to be able to play with panel steel to normal gal tube for gates, etc. Having a boat means theres always the opportunity to want to do stainless steel if that's an option later. I checked with Alltools outlet (pretty much a WOT), and have seen Unimig, Cig and Razorweld. The local welding store is suggesting one of the Unimig combination welders that's mig also (gasless), but the more I look into it, the less I know if mig is the way to go. I've done some basic oxy welding and a little stick welding, but lets say total novice. So if you've got a budget of $500 to $1,200 and were looking for your first welder for general diy work, what would you go for?
good to see you man up. If only caitlin jenner had bought a welder she might still be bruce.
Cant comment on welder choices (my dad has a mig with gas so I use that. Best one is a free one. But gas bottle rent is a problem. Luckily we have our own gas bottle and just rent a bottle, tip it into ours (only equilisation so half fill) then madly use the rented bottle on whatever project we have and return)
but I can absolutely recommend the new style polarising auto darkening helmets. so much nicer to work with and cheap now.
argh sheet thanks all, I thought I was getting closer with the Unimig.
Nothing wrong with soapboxes either, all advice taken on board.
I've ground down a 15A earth on a lead before, but thought it was just my dodgy effort, thanks for the lead ok.
From the above Cig/Unimig comments, seem to be you either love them or hate them, love for Lincon though looks to be universal.
A decent auto helmet was definitely on the list.
Go the bogan 'aussie flag', skull, or American eagle? Decisions, decisions.
It will still take a month or so, but i'll let you know what I rightly or wrongly ended up going for.
I'll keep an eye out now for any specials, and will give the local guys a go at supplying a Lincon.
I think Caitlyn may be a welder.
damn wireless dropped out.
start again.
crusoe that looks good value, I'd expect to get the $359 out of it.
It's probably todays version of dads old transformer welder, just lighter and more compact, plus easier to weld on being invertor.
They had this Lincoln as well:
http://www.totaltools.com.au/lincoln-180a-mig-welder-with-torch-accessories-k69/i1248181/
At $1,099 it max's the budget out, but might let me do panels if I ever got another project car.
It looks like it needs 16A this time, is this still likely to be doable using std 10A though?
I mostly weld up to 6mm plate and never put the setting over 100A. So there is no way I need the benefit of a 15A outlet to drive the welder. Not sure what you're welding but my guess is you won't be running the welder at full noise (180A) where it will require/draw 15 amps from a 240Vac GPO. So as some one stated previously, get an adaptor lead (15A socket/10A plug top) made up and all should be good.
Rule of thumb: setting / max setting x max current draw = actual current draw. i.e. 100/180 x 15 = 8.3A
1 Make sure the bride to be is younger than you
2 Make sure she enjoy cooking, cleaning, sex, cleaning, dishwashing, vacuuming, cleaning, laundry duties, gardening, general cleaning.
3 make sure she ............. errrr ok welding............. I read wedding............. silly me 
I recently bought a lincoln arc inverter that can be set for tig as well. A10amp set up so I can build my new fence insitu.rather impressed,but keeping the old copper coil monster for that meaty job. when I was buying nobdy could explain why the welder was $385 ,but If I wanted a mine spec version it was $1100. the only difference we could see was the plug being changed to a meatier one with a locking set up. any boily's know whats going on
Sounds to me that it might have been fitted with a VRD (voltage reduction device). These are generally mandatory equipment on most mine sites and could explain the increased purchase price perhaps?
was that a one off special Landyacht,?
I have not seen much from Lincoln around that price.
This one might be similar features but is on special at $575?:
Unimig Dc Tig and arc
www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/Razorweld-200-DC-TIG-ARC-Inverter-Welder-10-200A/163825/
I have had a few welders in my time ranging from a Kmart bought cig for about $200 twenty years ago that I still have, to a fronius tps 2700 that cost $7500 and is the best thing thing since sliced bread. You can spend any amount and get a good or bad welder. If you can do a few checks before you buy it's worth it. If you know how to weld run a few beads at all settings and all positions. Some welders will not run at all for certain thicknesses and inverters can be dn hopeless for vertical ups. If you are getting a mig check that the wire feed adjustment actually adjusts. Pull the trigger for say 10 seconds and measure how much wire comes out. Then adjust wire feed And repeat. Do this across the dial. I had a $4500 unipig sorry unimig that just would not weld anything other than 5mm. Had the dealer look at it most of them are useless. It had every knob under the sun on it and none of them seemed to have much effect. So I went back to first principles and measured wire speed . It fed at 200 in/ minute or 1000in/ min with most of the knob doing nothing. I also once had a liquid air/ Lincoln that cost $1100 and was hard to adjust. I thought it was my lack of skill but eventually sold it after a few welder mates tried it. I didn't know how to test wire speed back then but suspect that was the problem. I have used a all Kempi caddy hassles wire feeder that was great. Mates have had expensive three pase Kempis with probls. These days don't trust any brand. Test thing as much as you can before you lay out your hard earned. There are just so many things out there that look like a welding machine but are just a box of junk. That said for home use you should be able to get something good for a few hundred bucks
Select to expand quoteCrusoe said..
Sorry Stamp (ex-boily), but the boilies where I worked recommended I but one of these. Little ripper. I treat it nicely and hasn't failed me yet and at just $315, seem like a good option for a beginner. You just need to take out a bank loan when buying the S/Steel welding rods.
sydneytools.com.au/cigweld-w1002901-weldskill-170-240v-inverter-dc-welder?fee=4&fep=2850&gclid=CNj68bGojMwCFRRvvAodyuMKWQ
Shout yourself a helmet with Auto Darkening, you'll never regret it. But get a good one.
We have 2 of these at the Ag college where I work and they are a good value machine. (Cant run 2 at a time as they are very voltage sensitive while welding and stutter and pulse about.) They are a pain to put back into the supplied case after each use though. It is good for occasional use and keeping things tidy.
On lower AMPS they are really good at establishing an arc but do tend to seal the end of the electrode when the bead is finished. A tap to
This CIG auto darkening helmet is great value and is the only (cheaper auto darkening helmet) that continually stands up to the rigors of student use. The headbands and lens are complete crap in the cheaper helmets. Their poor activation leaves a lot to be desired particularly when working outside in direct sunlight. The quality ones have no trouble.
The cheaper helmets internal batteries are also junk (and then have to be left in the sun to solar activate the lens to go clear) after they age a bit. You get what you pay for. The graphics on the helmet seem to mean more than the quality to the students though.
I use a Optrel Uvex auto change and it is now 16 years old and has one battery change in that time.
Don't use magnets to position the pieces you want to weld, as some inverter welders have a hissy fit with this.
Electrode choice is important as well as the "Chinese cheap and nasty" are just that!!!! They will do the job but are no where as easy to get on with.
thanks Piv and Chook.
I initially dropped by the local welding guys (MigoMag), who showed me a few machines, and offered a test of any when I had more time and wanted to compare, so I might do that next weekend.
Having someone nearby to get decent wire or electrodes from is important, so hopefully I can get something locally from them.
I have welding magnets already, and would have made the mistake chook.
Sounds like some vice grips and c clamps are on the list also.
Select to expand quotelandyacht said..
I recently bought a lincoln arc inverter that can be set for tig as well. A10amp set up so I can build my new fence insitu.rather impressed,but keeping the old copper coil monster for that meaty job. when I was buying nobdy could explain why the welder was $385 ,but If I wanted a mine spec version it was $1100. the only difference we could see was the plug being changed to a meatier one with a locking set up. any boily's know whats going on
Is 'mine spec' the equivalent of catering for a wedding verses any other function? it just costs more because.
might be.
'mine spec', 'wedding', or anything 'marine', all means add 500% to normal price.
Still looking for a welder but slowly narrowing it down, having stewed over the above suggestions.
A Lincoln arc Tig as at the top.
Also, do you 'boileys' think a magnetic welding earth clamp (about $50 off ebay) is the go?
Anything magnetic gets covered in steel filings and these are not much fun to get off. I've never used a magnet earth clamp but have used the magnetic triangles (squares I supposed they are called) for holding bits for tacking. None of these work on 316 SS.
