Some of my Axis aluminium foil components has gained pits and scratches in the anodising. Is there a successful way to fix them without removing all of the anodising and starting again from scratch? (Please excuse unintended pun.)
There is some I can think of but might not be quite diy
fill with epoxy and aluminium powder then sand but it is very hard
then sandblast to get a good finish (it would be acceptable to sand very evenly but it's hard to get into corners) and paint with a proper 2pack. I used to use a ceramic 2pack firearms coating that is baked on and it's wayyyy better than anodizing.
Select to expand quotetaveray said..
Some of my Axis aluminium foil components has gained pits and scratches in the anodising. Is there a successful way to fix them without removing all of the anodising and starting again from scratch? (Please excuse unintended pun.)
You can get ali masts and fuses cheaply just ignore it until it effects performance. Then buy a new one. Tefgel all the joins and bolts.
If your foil parts are pitting, they have been significantly weakened and the pits represent high stress points and neucleation sites for cracking. I would recommend replacement; i break enough foil stuff without pitting.
Id say it really depends where. If it's the mast just replace it those extrusions are cheap. Plate is irrelevant, on the fuse if it's around the stab just let it ride, not a big deal. If it's around the mast there I would just bondo and spray paint.
In my experience this pitting is the result of electrolytic corrosion with the aluminum reacting with the carbon. If it's on the outside of the fuse that's happening in the water and you can mitigate that by increasing the area of exposed aluminum. Because of the exposed carbon a set amount of corrosion is going to occur and if the only area exposed is a scratch or a pinhole it's going to go wild in that small area. If more area is exposed you will have a light dusting of corrosion over the bigger area and it won't create such drastic weak points. Maybe try sanding the back half of the fuse opposite the stab as a sacrificial area. If there's pitting in the mast/fuse connection that's happening because salt and water are retained in that area after riding and the reaction is happening overnight. For that I really like to use some simple silicon sealant in the assembly to displace the water and just leave it assembled all the time. Silicon is so mellow that it won't interfere with future disassembly etc. It does screw up future bonds so if you ever want to repair or paint in the future silicon will be a problem but all foil items are disposable and repairability should be your LAST concern
Select to expand quoteTooMuchEpoxy said..
Id say it really depends where. If it's the mast just replace it those extrusions are cheap. Plate is irrelevant, on the fuse if it's around the stab just let it ride, not a big deal. If it's around the mast there I would just bondo and spray paint.
In my experience this pitting is the result of electrolytic corrosion with the aluminum reacting with the carbon. If it's on the outside of the fuse that's happening in the water and you can mitigate that by increasing the area of exposed aluminum. Because of the exposed carbon a set amount of corrosion is going to occur and if the only area exposed is a scratch or a pinhole it's going to go wild in that small area. If more area is exposed you will have a light dusting of corrosion over the bigger area and it won't create such drastic weak points. Maybe try sanding the back half of the fuse opposite the stab as a sacrificial area. If there's pitting in the mast/fuse connection that's happening because salt and water are retained in that area after riding and the reaction is happening overnight. For that I really like to use some simple silicon sealant in the assembly to displace the water and just leave it assembled all the time. Silicon is so mellow that it won't interfere with future disassembly etc. It does screw up future bonds so if you ever want to repair or paint in the future silicon will be a problem but all foil items are disposable and repairability should be your LAST concern
I moved to carbon set-up with aluminium fuse and disassemble and rinse after each session. First fuse quickly started corroding so added thin layer of grease to contact areas, and on another fuse added grease from new. Seems to help both.
Thank you, gentlefolk! In short, the only easy solution is to replace the bits, as a few of you have said. The pitting is in very small spots, mostly on masts, so I'll take that advice when it appears to be bad enough.
lol i assumed it was a total mess and that's why you were asking..... definitely disregard my ideas!
For what it's worth, my experience with aluminum parts, saw increased pitting when I used covers. Mast and fuse covers. It trapped moisture for long periods. I stopped using covers on aluminum parts.
Apply lanolin grease between the wing and fuselage joints. Remove fuselage from mast after use, rinse and a light spray with WD in the mast socket and around the wing joins to neutralise any residual salt and water. Hang to dry out of covers. Replace alloy mast with carbon and your kit will last for years.
Select to expand quoteDWF said..
For what it's worth, my experience with aluminum parts, saw increased pitting when I used covers. Mast and fuse covers. It trapped moisture for long periods. I stopped using covers on aluminum parts.
Foil covers should be made from a breathable/wicking material.. next shark tank idea? You're welcome ;)
A hole punch works well to perforate neoprene covers to allow some air flow to dry things out.
Select to expand quotejdfoils said..
A hole punch works well to perforate neoprene covers to allow some air flow to dry things out.
Still holds moisture for way too long, only use covers to and from the beach, once home and rinsed, hang to dry without of the covers.
