Hey, so I've ordered a Conrad board, but it will be months, and I've got sick if the sup with the wing. I can get hold of a formula board, I thought I would just wack a timber block in it, glued to the top deck and set some bolts through and glass over that. Seems simple and cheap interim solution.
Has anyone done it, if so any advice, I'm not a board maker and besides some little ding repairs not had a lot of experience.
Thanks in advance
Huge surface area, lots of drag, you would need to stand ON the tail to unwet, out of balance.
But you can slog around just like SUP.
If you weigh 150 kg., it might work.
Of all the windsurf boards to use a formula would be one of the last I'd consider.
Better off with smaller slalom board. Either one will need more work than simply glueing a block of wood to it.
I rode one, best beginner board ever! stable, gets up really easy with a wing. as soon as you figure out a gybe you'll want something way smaller. Guy I know rides it with his 1125 in light wind with a 4m, no pumping to get on foil.
just make sure the box is mounted far enough forwards.
???
Are you sure you know what a Formula board is?
Like 160 liters, 100 cm wide, 75 cm ofo, 220 cm long, and most top 20 lbs. naked.
thanks guys - For info I am 130KGs hence looking at this board for a progression and impatiently awaiting the real board to arrive.
The width does bother me, but we will see, maybe I'll glue a little v hull to the front from foam
Select to expand quoteFoilAddict said..
I rode one, best beginner board ever! stable, gets up really easy with a wing. as soon as you figure out a gybe you'll want something way smaller. Guy I know rides it with his 1125 in light wind with a 4m, no pumping to get on foil.
just make sure the box is mounted far enough forwards.
Do you know where they put the foil?
Given the short life of this, I was hoping to put the bolts straight through the deck, rather than tracks.
Try to place COE of front wing between 1/4 to 1/3 up from the tail.
Seal all holes with epoxy mix.
You never mentioned what foil you have, so no way we can tell you where exactly to place it.
One of my old windsurfing buds was 275 lbs., about your weight, and actually could uphaul..stand on...a 9'5" Seatrend of around 138 liters.
Formula boards range in volume from 125 up to 205 liters in volume. We don't know which one you picked.
A RRD Pocket Rocket is offered in 140 liters.
Hey Fos,
I learned on a 8'10 Smik Mongrel (mongrel as it's not a pure bred - it's not perfect at anything but you can Sup, Windsurf, and foil it). It's got heaps of float, but the centre of float is way away from the centre of lift of the foil.
It means if you want to be floated by the board, you need to stand around that point of floatation. So as you get going, you then need to shuffle your feet back to the centre of lift of the foil to then fly it. It's a great board, but it's not perfect to learn on as a result. I think you should come by and have a chat so we can at least try and get the foil parked in a position on your board where it will be more balanced - so the centre of floatation is nearer to the centre of lift of the foil. I reckon Damo would also be good to talk to about this.
Dont know of anyone who tried, before I saw your weight I thought you were talking a kiteformula board.
In terms of positioning the foil, most foils ride best with the backfoot just behind the mast. I'd stand on the board in the water, figure out where your feet are balanced and place the foil mast just in front of the back foot.
Thanks all, answers probably out of order but ...
The foil setup I have is a fanatic 2500 aluminium setup.
The board I don't know but will get it this weekend. I believe it 170 l
Marty, Damo is all over it and Bret as well to assist with glassing and sealing.
How are u doing Marty
Thanks and when I see the board I'll have more of an idea. I like placing the mast just in front of the back foot, that makes sense.
Z26 is 125 liters.
Z28 is around 135 liters....thinner in front of mast track.
Most Formula Z's are around 150 liters, but all are 90-100 cm wide.
170 is a lot of volume for a Z.
Great to hear Fos. Agree with WoH. Thought Damo would have good ideas.
My busted foot is 2 weeks into 6-8 weeks recovery. Can't wait to get back out there. But it's gotta be right.
Persist with the sup for the moment. It all counts. Be great to see you out there in a few months.
Nice one!
I guess it's a good idea to settle on the tracks after all.
I love the hands-on approach.
Better build and wing than wait and whinge!
Details and pics below
Hi Fos,
I am going to frankensteinize an old windsurf waveboard (70
Curious about your build.
-What did you use for the tracks?.
Shapers do the 2 tracks in a foam block ready to go. I later found out the fibreglass shop here stocks the same ones from shapers.
-Did you use any tricks to reinforce or just the bottom carbon layers in the pic?
I am nervous about the side loads given the formula board at 1m wide, but the foam block inserted into a tight fit with the carbon over seems to be working.
-How many layers/cloth weight did you use?.
2 glass top and bottom, 2 carbon sandwiched.
The thought was that the glass will stick better to the existing carbon and paint, not sure if it's a thing but it cant hurt.
So the base layer is glass. 6oz from memory
Then Carbon for strength, 2 layers,
and finally glass to protect and shield the carbon from scratches or if sanding smooth(which I didnt)
-Did it gain a lot of weight by adding the foil box?
No where near the weight of the foil and mast, so nothing I've noticed, maybe up to 1KG but guessing hard.
Phase 1
I got the tacks in a foam block, they weren't glued in I used surf epoxy and qcell mix to place them in, with masking tape over the tracks to enable easy cleaning.
Phase 2
With a router and a vacuum cleaner I cut out a fairly precise hole, shapers forums led me to how far from the tail to cut. When I got close I checked with the foam block for fit. Then with the mast in I set this in qcell mix as per above. Using tape I ensured the to sides of the masking tape were the same length to get square.
Phase 3
I removed the mast and sanded this all flat (didn't look for square), also sanded the plastic from the fin boxes to ensure all smooth, so the glass layers will attach well and it will be flat.
Sand out past where the widest piece of glass/carbon is going to go
Phase 4
I remasked the tracks, but with very minimal cover, so the fiber glass will cover the plastic tracks. Then mixed up around 2 cups of resin(no qcell). Poored a reasonable amount on the board where the first glass 6oz goes, out that down and got it all wet, the carbon layer 1, carbon layer 2 and finally a glass layer for protection, if something hits it it won't hit the carbon. Left that about 12 hrs, when not sticky, but still soft enough I used a Stanley knife to cut out the basic shape of the tracks.
Phase 5,
Wait 24 ish hrs from final application, Using a sander or dremmel cleanup the fin tracks so they are the correct shape and have no fiber edges - also sand any daggy bits around the edges, where fiber glass gathered etc
Pic1 - the block is set and now a combo of chisel to remove excess lumps and sanding to get smooth - I wear a face mask and use the vacuum
pic 2 (out of order) pencil marks for foam block location and routed box, before any resin is mixed
Pic3 Setting the block - with mast for square
Pic4 Setting the block - with mast for square
Pic5 after initial stanley knife cutout, after it had gone off but not set
Breathing new life into old boards! Love it!
I started Winging on a windfoil 125 wizard with a deep tuttle, no tracks. Worked surprisingly well.
DC
How it rides, and sticky ness
Yes it's a bit sticky, in that it doesn't release like a dedicated board, but for beginners it kinda works.
As an old race board it gets to the plane very quickly, then it releases easily.
It is a big board so it is slow to respond, which again is easier for beginners, you can make a mistake and correct before the board has reacted.
It's quick enough, overtaking some peeps, and goes up and down wind easily
All up happy with the result, I've carved a couple of gybes and definitely helping progress quickly, with a cheap alternative to a production board, which for me is still on order. 
Fos, it was great seeing you out there yesterday. That board is a bloody ripper and gets a big unit like you going with ease. I was doubtful with what you were proposing initially, but am stoked for you that you've made it work. I can see a few of us replicating what you've done with old cast off boards to use as projects/prototypes/spare cheap emergency boards.
Nooooice.
i converted a kite formula board.