Another aspect - a lot of wavesails dont have their battens with the correct tension, ie: it is typical to see a dozen rigs on the beach with half of the sails showing lots of creases in the batten-pocket.
When wavesailing there is so much variability of waves and wind that making any changes to your setup probably wont help in any meaningful way (unless you happen to be a pro-rider). This differs from say speedsailing where the variability of conditions, is lower... so any tuning is more noticeable.
That isn't to say, dont bother tuning your wave-gear... just that big changes are more likely to have a noticable difference, such as using a different type of board or choosing "power wavesails"
Select to expand quotemathew said..
Another aspect - a lot of wavesails dont have their battens with the correct tension, ie: it is typical to see a dozen rigs on the beach with half of the sails showing lots of creases in the batten-pocket.
When wavesailing there is so much variability of waves and wind that making any changes to your setup probably wont help in any meaningful way (unless you happen to be a pro-rider). This differs from say speedsailing where the variability of conditions, is lower... so any tuning is more noticeable.
That isn't to say, dont bother tuning your wave-gear... just that big changes are more likely to have a noticable difference, such as using a different type of board or choosing "power wavesails"
mmmm I don't really agree with this above. Yes some changes and fine tuning are a bit less obvious than slalom gear but when you try something that really works and it's trimmed correctly you will really notice it! I was listening the podcast with the racing legend Phil McGain yesterday...it gave me the idea of the notebook on the van! why people don't write it down the tuning?!? just one more or less cm on the downhole tension can really make a difference! without talking about masts, different stiffness and different curves! I'm thinking to make the next video about that! Why not to make a mark with a sharpie on a board for the track base or the fins when we find that "magic" feeling?!?
+ ^^^
I tune and write down just as much on my wave gear, as on any other set-ups, including slalom and Formula gear.
My notebook and a pen is always in the backpack for windsurfing, which goes into the car every time I go windsurfing .
Interesting concept boffe, so interesting i tried it yesterday and although a windy day i felt there was an improvement on the turn and no obvious problem sailing so will try more. I have never heard of this idea has anyone else
Select to expand quotepommypair said..
Interesting concept boffe, so interesting i tried it yesterday and although a windy day i felt there was an improvement on the turn and no obvious problem sailing so will try more. I have never heard of this idea has anyone else
Have a play with toe in fins as well, that's really improve the bottom turn on a production board. Anything more than 2 degrees will make you feel a big improvement and I would go down 1 or 2 cm than your usual size. For istance I normally use 15 + 9 on my bottom turn rail, but when I use K4 asym 3? I go down to 8cm for the front fin.
Select to expand quotepommypair said..
Interesting concept boffe, so interesting i tried it yesterday and although a windy day i felt there was an improvement on the turn and no obvious problem sailing so will try more. I have never heard of this idea has anyone else
I don't have 35mins so what's the concept (or can we say where in video)?
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..pommypair said..
Interesting concept boffe, so interesting i tried it yesterday and although a windy day i felt there was an improvement on the turn and no obvious problem sailing so will try more. I have never heard of this idea has anyone else
I don't have 35mins so what's the concept (or can we say where in video)?
Let's say at 21:30 it's the highlight of the concept 
Glad I didn't wait 21mins for that.
Common fin placement on assy board and can work nicely on a 'normal' board.
More interesting is Novenove put their slot boxes in backwards I wonder if they know...? Creates an inverse cant issue if the fin is loose. That's not great.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Glad I didn't wait 21mins for that.
Common fin placement on assy board and can work nicely on a 'normal' board.
More interesting is Novenove put their slot boxes in backwards I wonder if they know...? Creates an inverse cant issue if the fin is loose. That's not great.
Now that I have a new board with the slot boxes fitted in a more traditional way...I understand how clever is the placement on my old board! And Gianni the shaper (ex shaper for rrd, 99, mistral) is super clever...in that way you can remove/unscrew/replace one fin without having to remove the one next to it to make space for the tool!!! And with slot boxes if a fin is loose you lost soon before the cant issue!!!
No I think you didn't understand
if u have a fin where the width of the base is narrower than the slot box opening, tightening the screws will tip the fin sideways (cant it over).
the fin will not fall out but it will be on an incorrect angle. It is much safer to have the screws coming from the outside (rail side) so if anything is a tiny bit wrong you get a little more cant instead of less or negative. Negative would be awful.
in windsurfing boards with vertical fins not 3-9deg as surfboards n SUPs are, this is important as it's easy to induce a negative cant.
he can do it different to everyone else if he is super careful and customers use perfect fins of course. 
when I started making boards this was told to me by one of the biggest guys in windsurf board design so it's not just the world according to Mark haha
It feels to me though that having the screws on the "outside" can lead to early spin-outs from the poor waterflow on the low-pressure side of the fin. I have an old Starboard quad (2011 model, I think) where this has been a real issue, and it is perhaps exaggerated by the large screw heads that they used. It is much less of problem (not noticeable) on my Simmer board, where the screws are of a smaller-diameter and have no head, FCS-style.
I suggest that's just Starboard Quad 
Not highly regarded by many folks
test by filling over the screw holes with candle wax and report back? As 99% of boards are like this and no issues
I have been using a thin, clear, packing tape. ;)
It works but tends to fall off after some time. Might try wax now that I have settled on a fin-set-up that I like. One off the fin boxes was also mounted well too low in the board (about 4-5mm) which made things even worse on that tack. Shimming the fin to the correct height and blocking off the open parts (fore and aft) in the SB, has helped a lot. :)
I use gorilla tape to cover side fins. Need to clean around really well. They stay on for a long time. Never thought about covering the screw holes... Thanks for the tip 
!
Have you tried different stiffness fins, eg K4 on the bottom turn side and G10 on the top turn side?
