Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The newer Europins NEVER EVER break. EVER.
EVER
Funny to read all these. I would say that after a decade of windsurfing I have an eye now for these "enhanced" parts. Still quite a few new things you buy in windsurfing have to be tweaked to work properly.
I think if you pull foot strap screws out of the board you might not have screwed them in far enough.
As for the foot straps themselves. I have been using Severne straps for the past 2 years. I find them on par with Fanatic straps in terms of comfort. Don't know what JP straps are like these days but in the past when I had JP boards the straps wore out within a few sails and from then on dug holes into the top of your feet.
Fair enough, wasn't my personal board, I sure checked the straps before but could have been damaged before, don't think it's a major issue or anything with the screws. Didn't want to give false impression of bad quality with this.
Problem with these straps that came with the Pyro is the plastic edge where the strap comes down to connect the board. Neoprene padding doesn't cover this part, even if brand new, especially if you make the straps big, like size 6 or 7. Sides of my feet got bloody holes in it in few days. Ended up cutting someones yoga mat to wrap it around the strap ends :) They should pack a yoga mat with the board!
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The newer Europins NEVER EVER break. EVER.
EVER
Ha! Yeah I had Chinook's pin once.
Guess what happened... Ditched the rig, to swim as the board flew off on landing and swimming with the rig is not too much fun. Never saw the rig again, with carbon boom, nice mast and quite a fresh sail on it.
Chenook said they had faulty patch of joints out, with the air bubble in the pin. Snapped off clean, bubble clearly seen in the metal where it broke. They sent me another one and never said sorry and I never used their stuff again.
www.instagram.com/p/BpWG94eAWWe/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
But from that day on I know anything can break :)
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The newer Europins NEVER EVER break. EVER.
EVER
Ha! Yeah I had Chinook's pin once.
Guess what happened... Ditched the rig, to swim as the board flew off on landing and swimming with the rig is not too much fun. Never saw the rig again, with carbon boom, nice mast and quite a fresh sail on it.
Chenook said they had faulty patch of joints out, with the air bubble in the pin. Snapped off clean, bubble clearly seen in the metal where it broke. They sent me another one and never said sorry and I never used their stuff again.
www.instagram.com/p/BpWG94eAWWe/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
But from that day on I know anything can break :)

By doing that you are preventing the upper bearing from working.
Not a good idea!
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The Duotone europin is also brilliant. One piece machined part like Chinook europin. The iTendon/iBase is the only piece of Duotone kit I own. Plus in my experience, the Duotone tendon lasts longer than the black Chinook tendon.

My severne mast bast is still going strong after 3years, just got a new one as a spare and the tendon is now clear not black, hopefully it's as good
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The newer Europins NEVER EVER break. EVER.
EVER
Ha! Yeah I had Chinook's pin once.
Guess what happened... Ditched the rig, to swim as the board flew off on landing and swimming with the rig is not too much fun. Never saw the rig again, with carbon boom, nice mast and quite a fresh sail on it.
Chenook said they had faulty patch of joints out, with the air bubble in the pin. Snapped off clean, bubble clearly seen in the metal where it broke. They sent me another one and never said sorry and I never used their stuff again.
www.instagram.com/p/BpWG94eAWWe/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
But from that day on I know anything can break :)
Guess I should have been more specific... The Tendon version with Cast pin/cap never breaks. Not sure what kind of sorry you were expecting & from whom? The Rubber joint version they have tried several times to reintroduce but that one is 5 years ago. 8mm into a rubber hourglass is simply not strong enough for performance sailing & 10mm are like hens teeth so finally discontinued 3 years ago....
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The Duotone europin is also brilliant. One piece machined part like Chinook europin. The iTendon/iBase is the only piece of Duotone kit I own. Plus in my experience, the Duotone tendon lasts longer than the black Chinook tendon.

These threads are always surprising to me.
People tend to mix up stuff that is shiny with stuff that works well and then lasts over time.
Something that is heavy and shiny is perhaps reassuring, but is not necessarily well engineered.
We also get several newbies misunderstanding why we have two bearings at the base of the mast.
There needs to be one bearing below the U/J and the second bearing above it.
That's because we gybe, but we also flip the rig in the water, so one bearing allows rotation in the vertical plane, and the second allows free movement in the horizontal plane.
In general sailing, the deckplate bearings and U/J wear out less if we have both bearings working freely.
(And you'll also find your deckplate doesn't unscrew when afloat. )
Where one or the other bearing does not work, the U/J itself is twisted under continual torque load, and in time it breaks, usually by splitting where the little bolts attach the tendon joint to the base - or in applying undue pressure elsewhere, like in twisting a Boje joint.
Chinook fittings are solid but having an extra rig attachment point in the deck plate, and which doubles up as your lower bearing, is not a good idea.
Doesn't matter that it looks shiny and feels heavy. Over time, it will wear and then break here, sooner than a non-join set up.
The Europin set up works best, as long as it's a decent brand.
The US cup connection is a bit second rate, usually when the spring clip nipple pins mismatch the extension used.
Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The Duotone europin is also brilliant. One piece machined part like Chinook europin. The iTendon/iBase is the only piece of Duotone kit I own. Plus in my experience, the Duotone tendon lasts longer than the black Chinook tendon.

I'm not convinced.


The Fox board from Severne - it was a big mistake making it with a Power Box.
So many sailors who would buy one do not as they have to change all their fins.
Perhaps for the next model out.
Not too excited about abase using Torx.
Agreed, the windsurfing industry should just standardize on the original

Maybe Severne made PB in Fox to attract some people with Freestyle/Freewave quiver. I will pass LOL. Freestyle boards are much more fun plus can go super fast if you have skills... After all they have slalom rocker..
That North Europin is a major piece of junk and absolutely agree that sometimes perfectly machined and solid stuff may not have amazing design.
That North Europin is a major piece of junk and absolutely agree that sometimes perfectly machined and solid stuff may not have amazing design.
What's the problem with the north europin?
Here's my complaint. With the Velcro on the tack, the hooks are on the bottom when you fold it back for rigging, and it always picks up grass clippings etc which affects it's ability to close good after a while.
If Severne were serious about their products they should put the loop side on the bottom and the hooks on top to fix this issue.
That North Europin is a major piece of junk and absolutely agree that sometimes perfectly machined and solid stuff may not have amazing design.
What's the problem with the north europin?
In sandy environments with constant swapping of boards the sand gets inside the shaft and stops the mechanism from locking in place. Once that happens the only solution is to rinse the sand out.
I didn't think i'd have anything to contribute to this minor gripes thread, but today i found something. The bottle opener needs a rethink. I had to try twice today to get my beer open and ready to drink. I got it two seconds later, but its all lost drinking time. I had to align the hex key perfectly accross the bottle top so it wouldn't slide off.![]()
lets be serious here, it gets used once (maybe) to tweak some battens upon purchase. From then on It takes on its true function of opening the after sail drinks. Get your act together Severne Windsurfing.
other than that, can't fault it.
i Base and tendon work well for me, no jamming with sand.
Have broken a few of the older North tendons but not new Duotone.
The i base with long pin and hourglass is well built and i have used the same one for 3 years now!!!. Great downhaul tool as well
and the rdm collar that Duotone have fits perfectly on the Severne too


Chinook. It just works.
Even with Chinook, we don't like the euro-pins in the gorge since they break. The Chinook cup is the favorite.
The Duotone europin is also brilliant. One piece machined part like Chinook europin. The iTendon/iBase is the only piece of Duotone kit I own. Plus in my experience, the Duotone tendon lasts longer than the black Chinook tendon.

I'm not convinced.


I took your photo as a public service announcement and ordered a new tendon. Bought the original in December 2014 and used it roughly 40 plus sessions a year since then so I reckon I'm pushing my luck to carry on using it. And in retrospect I used to replace the black chinook tendons once a year before switching to North, so I have no excuse not to replace it.

My severne mast bast is still going strong after 3years, just got a new one as a spare and the tendon is now clear not black, hopefully it's as good
Total agree is light and very strong at the same time, tested in some bad wipe out in Manawa and Oneye last year still perfect. We have also used it for 3years in Lake of Garda and is ok. Now I use a new one. ![]()
I didn't think i'd have anything to contribute to this minor gripes thread, but today i found something. The bottle opener needs a rethink. I had to try twice today to get my beer open and ready to drink. I got it two seconds later, but its all lost drinking time. I had to align the hex key perfectly accross the bottle top so it wouldn't slide off.![]()
lets be serious here, it gets used once (maybe) to tweak some battens upon purchase. From then on It takes on its true function of opening the after sail drinks. Get your act together Severne Windsurfing.
other than that, can't fault it.
I didn't think i'd have anything to contribute to this minor gripes thread, but today i found something. The bottle opener needs a rethink. I had to try twice today to get my beer open and ready to drink. I got it two seconds later, but its all lost drinking time. I had to align the hex key perfectly accross the bottle top so it wouldn't slide off.![]()
lets be serious here, it gets used once (maybe) to tweak some battens upon purchase. From then on It takes on its true function of opening the after sail drinks. Get your act together Severne Windsurfing.
other than that, can't fault it.
That reminds me of another gripe, I've had an 8.6 overdrive M1, M2 and M3 and everyone came with the batten just above the boom about a cm to short.
i Base and tendon work well for me, no jamming with sand.
Have broken a few of the older North tendons but not new Duotone.
The i base with long pin and hourglass is well built and i have used the same one for 3 years now!!!. Great downhaul tool as well
and the rdm collar that Duotone have fits perfectly on the Severne too


That collar would catch on the footpad of my Severne Blades.
No it doesn't, i have a quiver of 2021 s1 and it works fine, it is smooth and has no metal rivet/ pivots which grab the cloth like the hinged collar version that comes as stock standard.
Showed it to my mate yesterday who has 2021 blades and he has \been converted and getting one to put on his extension that has a hinged collar.
No it doesn't, i have a quiver of 2021 s1 and it works fine, it is smooth and has no metal rivet/ pivots which grab the cloth like the hinged collar version that comes as stock standard.
Showed it to my mate yesterday who has 2021 blades and he has \been converted and getting one to put on his extension that has a hinged collar.
2017 Blades.