For windsurfing I always used Dakine fixed (no swing) non-adjustable harness lines, so when I wanted adj. harness lines for windfoiling I stuck with fixed so the line would be in the same place when I unhooked/hooked-in in-flight. But due to delivery delays there were none available, so decided to try the Sailworks quicktune lines which swing, and glad I did! They are as light as regular fixed non-adj. lines, have a nice stainless steel V jam cleat (no teeth to wear the rope) with a pulley, can attach without removing the tail, but that requires taking both ends apart (so not like the Ion Varios where the strap comes undone). But the big plus is that I can slide my hand on the boom to the rear strap and easily drop down to grab the adjustment rope, once I have the rope in my hand and either in or out of the cleat it is like having my hand on the boom, so very stable while I adjust the length shorter or longer. And I thought the swing would be a problem, but now I like it since if I lift the hook they swing out on their own, and with a subtle movement of the boom I can swing them into position to grab with the hook. And at $48 are reasonably priced. The clear tubing also allows you to see the rope wear, though the rope looks and feels very durable. The ability to adjust both ends gives unlimited adjustment.
I have used nothing but Sailworks harness lines for many years.
What I like is that they swing easily. Easy to hook in and easy to unhook.
What I don't like is that you really have to squeeze the line into the cleat--really hard--to get it to hold. If you are a bit lax on this, it will slip. No biggie, just re-do it, but do it harder.
Select to expand quotesegler said..
I have used nothing but Sailworks harness lines for many years.
What I like is that they swing easily. Easy to hook in and easy to unhook.
What I don't like is that you really have to squeeze the line into the cleat--really hard--to get it to hold. If you are a bit lax on this, it will slip. No biggie, just re-do it, but do it harder.
I did not find getting the line into the cleat to be a problem, other than remembering to do it the first couple of times. Maybe they modified the cleat, or now use a different rope? Does your cleat and line look the same as in my pictures?
I like a lot the Nautix adjustable race lines, which are similar (but seems probably a better cleat). No issues with slipping in the cleat. The "sliding" rope goes above. In the Sailworks it goes below?
windsurf.nautix.com/nautix-windsurf-harness-lines-race-clamcleat.html
I'll try to find a better picture of the cleat, not the best picture on their website!
Nautix's are very similar to the ones used by most of RSX pros (and raceboard), home made or like these:
sailingforgold.com/harnes-lines/87-cabos-de-arnes-harness-lines-duolines.html
The only caveat I found adjusting the lines while sailing is: on a broad reach if well powered or gusty. On a Raceboard you lenghten the lines on the downwind --while hooked--, but the rig can catapult if a gust comes while "releasing" the lines on the cleat. I have discovered that I can avoid the problem advancing significantly the front hand in the boom before lenghtening, so I have more leverage to steady the rig if balance changes.
Select to expand quoteMarcCRider said..
I like a lot the Nautix adjustable race lines, which are similar (but seems probably a better cleat). No issues with slipping in the cleat. The "sliding" rope goes above. In the Sailworks it goes below?
windsurf.nautix.com/nautix-windsurf-harness-lines-race-clamcleat.html
I'll try to find a better picture of the cleat, not the best picture on their website!
Nautix's are very similar to the ones used by most of RSX pros (and raceboard), home made or like these:
sailingforgold.com/harnes-lines/87-cabos-de-arnes-harness-lines-duolines.html
The only caveat I found adjusting the lines while sailing is: on a broad reach if well powered or gusty. On a Raceboard you lenghten the lines on the downwind --while hooked--, but the rig can catapult if a gust comes while "releasing" the lines on the cleat. I have discovered that I can avoid the problem advancing significantly the front hand in the boom before lenghtening, so I have more leverage to steady the rig if balance changes.
Yeah, Nautix use a Clamcleat (coated aluminum), I have Clamcleats for my outhaul lines, they work fine, Chinook race lines also use a Clamcleat. Not sure which way of cleating the line: from the topside down against the line (Nautix, Chinook, Starboard); or from the backside away from the line (Sailworks), works the best, but going back to lock in on the Sailworks does not hit the line, but then you cannot see the line cleated in.
Select to expand quoteGrantmac said..
You can flip the cleat around on the sailworks if you wish.
Good point, will keep it in mind, so far I like them the way they are.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..MarcCRider said..
I like a lot the Nautix adjustable race lines, which are similar (but seems probably a better cleat). No issues with slipping in the cleat. The "sliding" rope goes above. In the Sailworks it goes below?
windsurf.nautix.com/nautix-windsurf-harness-lines-race-clamcleat.html
I'll try to find a better picture of the cleat, not the best picture on their website!
Nautix's are very similar to the ones used by most of RSX pros (and raceboard), home made or like these:
sailingforgold.com/harnes-lines/87-cabos-de-arnes-harness-lines-duolines.html
The only caveat I found adjusting the lines while sailing is: on a broad reach if well powered or gusty. On a Raceboard you lenghten the lines on the downwind --while hooked--, but the rig can catapult if a gust comes while "releasing" the lines on the cleat. I have discovered that I can avoid the problem advancing significantly the front hand in the boom before lenghtening, so I have more leverage to steady the rig if balance changes.
Yeah, Nautix use a Clamcleat (coated aluminum), I have Clamcleats for my outhaul lines, they work fine, Chinook race lines also use a Clamcleat. Not sure which way of cleating the line: from the topside down against the line (Nautix, Chinook, Starboard); or from the backside away from the line (Sailworks), works the best, but going back to lock in on the Sailworks does not hit the line, but then you cannot see the line cleated in.
FYI... the Chinook Raceline use a proprietary cast cleat of their own design - not Clamcleat.
chinooksailing.com/collections/harness-lines/products/race-harness-lines
it feels more stable when I pull down on the Sailworks adjustment rope, versus the Ion Vario adjustment strap which I have to pull towards me.
One thing about them is on the water you need to be hooked in to adjust them in/out because of the V jam cleat which is very secure, so I will loosen before getting on the board so I can hook in easily and then adjust length for the sail and conditions. Have not tried adjusting in flight, guys at Sailworks do, but that seems tricky, maybe with a steady wind.
And FYI, I needed to shorten the tubing so I could shorten the lines, the safest way to do that is to remove the line from the tube, but getting the line back through the shortened tube is not easy! Needed to tie a multistrand string to the end of the line and then use an aluminum wire to run the string through the tube, and then I used the string to pull the line through the tube. Needed to cut and remelt the line end so the end formed a conical tip, because the original line was melted in a way that made it larger than the tube inside diameter.
The other mod I made was to the end of the clear tube on the cleat side, the square edge catches on the cleat housing, so I beveled the edge all around so the tube slips past/into the cleat housing giving more adjustment range.
Select to expand quoteSandman1221 said..
The other mod I made was to the end of the clear tube on the cleat side, the square edge catches on the cleat housing, so I beveled the edge all around so the tube slips past/into the cleat housing giving more adjustment range.
Have you found any replacement tubing that works? My set from years ago was fine until the tubing wore through. Then you find that the rope is not good enough by itself 
I tried a few different tubing I found but none of them seemed to be as good as the original and wore through really quickly.
On my old Sailworks harness lines, I use plain ole tygon tubing that you can get at any hardware store.
Threading the rope through the tubing is the hardest part. I use a length of weed whacker string to pull the line through. Easy peasy.
No, after years of using the Sailworks system, I have never had the cleat cut, or even mark, the sail.
Select to expand quoteBen1973 said..
Not sure I would want a sharp pointy bit of metal so close to my monofilm. sail
are you referring to the cleat?, no sharp edges, and it can not hit the sail when mounted in the normal orientation so that the lines are on the outside of the boom.
Select to expand quoteFormulaNova said..Sandman1221 said..
The other mod I made was to the end of the clear tube on the cleat side, the square edge catches on the cleat housing, so I beveled the edge all around so the tube slips past/into the cleat housing giving more adjustment range.
Have you found any replacement tubing that works? My set from years ago was fine until the tubing wore through. Then you find that the rope is not good enough by itself
I tried a few different tubing I found but none of them seemed to be as good as the original and wore through really quickly.
Sailworks should have tubing, but I could always get tubing from my Dakine fixed non adj. lines, that tubing is very durable.
have not tried adj. lines in-flight yet, but found I can hook out and back in in-flight, out is easy just lift hook, back in need a subtle movement of boom to swing line into position to grab with hook. Cut 2-1/2" from the tubing to allow shorter lines, had some adj. left on my 5.8 yesterday in 14-19 knots so should be good now.
No sign of rust on the SS cleat, always rise off after use in always saltwater.
When hooked in with short lines and wind drops sail can pull me over if I do not get out quickly, found standing on my toes allows line to drop out on its own when my lines are short for foiling.
I am getting better at having all the sail pressure in the hook, my Quicktune lines are now 25" long using a seat harness (Dakine Reflex), gotta be careful in gusty conditions and not only do I adjust board height and sail sheet but also my angle to the wind and my lean angle in the harness, but it allows me to foil all over the bay without getting tired. Bunch of jet skis were close to shore last weekend so I took off for the middle of the bay where the kite foilers were, it was nice and quiet without the jet skis!
So Segler mentioned it was hard to lock the line in the vjam cleat, initially and up until yesterday that was not an issue for me, but yesterday could not get the line cleated on the water. The problem for me is I am always in salt water and the lines must have gotten filled up with salt crystals from getting wet and then drying after each use, and that made the lines so hard they would not squish into the vjam cleat. Soaked lines in fresh water and then lines were noticeably softer and could be cleated. So from now on will always rinse the lines good after each use, have always rinsed the vjam cleats and they still shows no sign of corrosion.
And the line has two knots, one for a hand hold on the end, second knot works for staying hooked when not in the air and do not want to hold sail, and in gusty conditions where I can stay hooked on the water and in the air, or for downwind- I think, will give it a try. In fairly steady winds I optimize the sail and foil and then shorten the line, then as the sail gets powered up and I pull it over to hook in the short line, ~25-26".
My solution to the difficulty of cleating the line is to use a slightly smaller-diameter line. It cleats fully and solidly. It won't last as long, but it is easier to use.
Select to expand quotesegler said..
My solution to the difficulty of cleating the line is to use a slightly smaller-diameter line. It cleats fully and solidly. It won't last as long, but it is easier to use.
I soaked both lines, while on the boom, in two wastebaskets filled with water for 4 hrs with flexing of rope occasionally, lines have been good since, but now I always rinse the lines good after each use. But I noticed the Amsteel grey/silver lines I use for my adjustable outhaul never get stiff from salt, so if I ever replace the harness lines I will use that brand of rope, West Marine sells it cut to length.
Gave up on the stock lines, got hard again even with washing, replaced with 1/4" Amsteel line. Amsteel line does not get hard after exposure to saltwater, AND slides easily into the V-jam cleat (top picture), versus the original line that I could not get in the cleat using strong pulling (lower picture). When you are on the water adjusting the line you want it to go in the cleat and lock the first time with minimal effort, and the Amsteel line does that.
