Its definitely important to set the right rake angle, but i wouldn't spend more than $50 for a set when its possible to manufacture you're own. You'll only end up using one of them once youve found the right one.
If this works, its takes the load right off the big surface area at the sides of the box, and puts it on the little area at the top of the box and point-loads the little edges where the foil enters the box. Crazy.
I may be missing something, but it doesn't seem to me that rake angle matters at all when you're slogging or when you're flying, so this is just to fix the three seconds when you're pumping?
If you're board is carrying a nose down angle, little touch downs can be a bit catapaulty. If you've got too much angle, it can be hard to get up on the foil, because you're having to bury the tail of the board in the water to get an up angle on the foil. Thats why most people go for 1 or 2 degrees of angle.
The sides of a tuttle box (And deep tuttle) aren't tapered, the front/back edges (and top in a normal tuttle) are. Everything Ive been told so far is that its the box ends that are the strong point, so provided there's good sidewall contact at either end, you'll be fine.
But it does leave me wondering, these spacers in the picture don't actually look like they have enough angle to suit a normal deep tuttle head to deep tuttle box(deep tuttle being the normal choice for the join) where there's already a much bigger angled gap. Unless you've got a foil with a square head (like Starboard) It'll be pointless buying them.
That's right. All (and I mean all) the fore and aft cantilevering load from the foil is carried by the front and back radius tapers. Therefore, it is critical to seat the foil into the box so that tapers are completely seated with no movement. Anything else means point loads, damaged finbox, damaged foil fitting, and broken screws.
You do not want contact of the foil top with the inside top of the finbox, with or without any shim devices. The tuttle design is meant for fore and aft taper seating.
It would be more effective to find a way to adjust the angle of the fuselage on the mast rather than mast in the box. Lower loads and probably quite easy on a mast with a socket style attachment like Starboard.
Or use a track mount which takes shims no problem.
Agree with the loading issue, its dangerous to not seat a tuttle fully at the correct angle.
Why don't all foils come with a couple of shims to go in the mast to fuselage joint?
With my Horue Tiny and Moses Carbon-mast, I have more than 5mm between top of the Tuttle-head and top of the box. I made a matching spacer from GRP to avoid any movement. At the same time I made some wedges to adjust the rake. For me that was a bis game-changer. My board was a tad nose-down and every gust ended up in a touch-down. Now it is much easier to ride, because I reduced the pitch-movement.
If you shim the joint from the mast to the fuselage to change the angle, what you are effectively doing is moving the center of lift fore or aft. See this youtube. Granted this is for a kite foil, but the physics is all the same:
Select to expand quoteBEACHSTART said..
hi Beachstart, I'm interested to know what board and foil combo you are using that requires this
Select to expand quoteBEACHSTART said..
I made a shim for my foil ready DT box, based on it those look too thin, unless you stacked them together, but then while the backside would be thick enough the frontside would be too thick. The foil ready DT boxes should just be called a foil box since they have been purpose built to withstand the verticle forces a foil applies.
Select to expand quoteforceten said..
Is there a foiling section
Yes, but it is a gear review, somewhat.
I ordered these, nicely made 3D printed spacers, no further sanding or anything. Fine for 20$. I used to use homemade spacers, but liked more options for trim & easier to change small increments.
If your board has a foilbox (so flat top section instead of slanted for deeptuttle) and your foil aswell these shims should work without problem.
If either of your boxes have different angles you might need to stack them, haven't tried. In the end its not really a problem since you only really have to shim the frontbolt, and you can use these for that aswell. Most pro's use the goyard shim kit, which only shims the front bolt.
Maybe nice to know, you can stack the shims up to roughly 2cm height with 0degree difference, or higher with increasing or decreasing rake angle.
