Hi guys need to re grip my old 295 any ideas on what to use and where to get it. all the sailing shops want to sell you soft gorilla style grip. im looking for the gritty type so you can still see graphics.
you can buy the grip medium from boat places or on line you mix with resin then apply with a brush in a stabling motion ( not strokes ) and mask up well its not hard just practice first on something . i assume this is the type your talking about? if not disregard lol
yep thats it the suff I used years ago came premixed in a can and you brushed it on.
Select to expand quoteSailhack said..
Sugar and clear coat? Works for me.
Acrylic automotive clear? how thick did you paint that on ? spray or brush ?
Select to expand quoteBenKirk said..
I've never done it, but would imagine you need UV stabilized epoxy clear coat.
yeah i agree other wise it will go yellow and look yuk in no time.
Might not be the 'professional' version, but I've done a couple this way and never had to do them again. I made the mistake of spraying a coat over the sugar the first-time which trapped the sugar and didn't provide much grip - the second attempt I used raw sugar (more coarse) and trashed my skin as it was like 60grit paper! Both times I sanded it back and did it again with much better results. TBH, I simply used a 2-pack polyurethane lacquer that I finished timber joinery with (and it never yellowed).
Tape up & cover the rest of the board - sand the area well, but not into the pigment, decals or glass & remove all dust with tack-cloth. Spray a generous coating of lacquer (especially to the edges), but not too much so it runs. Once tacky, spray a second finer (wet) coat and quickly/evenly sprinkle a generous amount of std white sugar over the entire area - especially the edges. Remove tape whilst tacky (not wet).
Once dry, use warm water & soft broom to remove sugar crystals & hose off. All done!
It is a more lazy and probably expensive way to go but I bought the Monster Spray Grip in a can and it worked on the nose area of two SUP's. Still going well over a year later. There is a bit of talk and pics about it in this thread; www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/Monster-Grip-Deck-Paint/
Boardbuilders mask up and roll on resin and then get a block of Clark board building foam and then use an angle grinder to spin ground up Clark foam particles into the resin.
This method will produce long lasting non slip like 120 grit sandpaper and will preserve the graphics but is messy.
The sugar or salt method creates a non slip that is like an 80 grit sandpaper but will not expose graphics well.
Select to expand quoteEzric said..
It is a more lazy and probably expensive way to go but I bought the Monster Spray Grip in a can and it worked on the nose area of two SUP's. Still going well over a year later. There is a bit of talk and pics about it in this thread; www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/Monster-Grip-Deck-Paint/
Very mixed results with that I think, only lasted half dozen sessions on board I did,
Select to expand quoteLip Smacker said..
Boardbuilders mask up and roll on resin and then get a block of Clark board building foam and then use an angle grinder to spin ground up Clark foam particles into the resin.
This method will produce long lasting non slip like 120 grit sandpaper and will preserve the graphics but is messy.
The sugar or salt method creates a non slip that is like an 80 grit sandpaper but will not expose graphics well.
What if you use caster sugar?
Select to expand quoteNotWal said...Lip Smacker said..
Boardbuilders mask up and roll on resin and then get a block of Clark board building foam and then use an angle grinder to spin ground up Clark foam particles into the resin.
This method will produce long lasting non slip like 120 grit sandpaper and will preserve the graphics but is messy.
The sugar or salt method creates a non slip that is like an 80 grit sandpaper but will not expose graphics well.
What if you use caster sugar?
Yes that's traditionally the best method..castor sugar that is
Or the proper way
Non-yellowing epoxy resin from Boatcraft pacific, they will sell the $15 sample kit to you but you have to beg for non yellowing hardener as it is not normally supplied in the little kit.
Sand old stuff off (not thru to graphics, just the rough bits) clean WELL with metho etc
Use foam roller to apply thin coat or resin.
Sprinkle on Intergrip (acrylic dust) which is the same stuff as the factory uses. Sprinkle very sparingly, it builds up real fast and looks crap.
The above won't go yellow, way better than sugar, and done well looks really close to factory (which sugar doesn't). Raggy, I'd be real careful with that polyester based one......
More proper 
Seriously though just confirm, I posted at exactly the same time as MOB - I was not having a crack and saying he does not do it properly.
Your good Mark - I use intergrip too.. some customers have a preference for castor sugar deck though - tried and proven...and tasty! 
Hi guys well, I just came in from regriping the board. this is how it went
1 grind white sugar in coffee grinder till its as fine as you can get it.
2 remove all straps from board
3 wipe over with wax and grease remover
4 mix some top coat clear (supercheap auto) 1-1/2 to 1 acrylic thinners
5 spray board at 40psi from the compressor using a putty gun
6 sprinkle the sugar through a kitchen siv onto the board
7 lay down more top coat and more sugar.
8 spray fadeout thinners as a last woft over to bind it all together.
9 wash the board off once dry.
Good stuff! My only concern is that you sprayed over sugar. It shouldn't pose too much of an issue but the purpose of using sugar is that it's construction is crystallic and when it dissolves the edges of the lacquer is what provides the grip, the sugar is basically like the formwork in concreting and once the lacquer has cured, it's not needed.
Your way may actually provide a second-tier of grip once the cover coat wears down though, so it will be interesting...
I have used Monster Paint on a few SUPs, it works great, and is super easy to apply. 
