I'm fixing up this older board, the top shell is delaminating from the bottom and the fin has been screwed in by a metal plate - bolted down lol.
I'm not sure if the board is epoxy or polyethylene etc. What I was looking at doing is removing the rusted metal plate and using polyester resin to fix the holes where the fin was screwed in to stop any water leaking into the foam, I'm not sure of the best way to fix the delaminating problem. Any one know the best way to go. Thanks
go to "The Board Lady" website. Heaps of info to help repair boards.
there is a web site that has lots of adds from the 90s, so it might have an ad that will tell you what the board is.
Polyethylene boards tend to feel very plasticky, like a thick rough anti slip is moulded in the whole top of the board, like the old Windsurfer.
I think epoxy resin will just about stick anything, watch out for too much resin as the heat will melt the foam if you just pour it in! If epoxy works on the board, I would glue & clamp first & then tape edge, sand & paint with marine urethane paint.
The board lady did tell me that not much sticks to the ASA skin applied over the epoxy boards. I repaired the Tiga in my avatar a couple of years ago & that's been fine, It has sat out side since at the beach! I used Permanet Painted Coatings 'Whitecoat', a 2 pack urethane paint. But the Tiga is epoxy under the ASA skin. About to do the same with an equipe 2.
Paint over repair with marine urethane paint to seal.
Nigel
Thanks, good info, and looked at the board lady. Anyone know what this model of board was made of ??
that board has a full plastic skin and are very hard to repair do not use any sort of polyester type resins as this will dissolve the foam in side best way to repair the fin box area is take out the metal screws and put some epoxy bog into the holes let it go hard and then counter sink the skin a bit then fill the counter sinks with sicaflex 291 wipe them flat with the hull the fin is probably missing the front screw and plate. the seam is harder on the hull epoxy wont hold it so the best stuff is the sicaflex,dont separate the hull as you will break the bond with the foam best to just seal the seam.before you wast money on this board lay it on the ground and check out how much rocker it has .any more than 10 mm the board will be a pig to get planing and only good for learning if you are small ie kids. most paints wont stick long so dont paint it if you need grip use monster paint
On the upside, i had one 26 years ago and it was my most prized possession
Think i bought it new from the windsurf shop in Ringwood?
Loved it, i wanted to be just like Scotty Tyronsea!!!
Thanks again, yeah sure no polyester resin on the polystyrene foam, good info cheers
I was told they have a closed cell polyurethane core.
On the upside, i had one 26 years ago and it was my most prized possession
Think i bought it new from the windsurf shop in Ringwood?
Loved it, i wanted to be just like Scotty Tyronsea!!!
we brought one with a rig brand new for the wife she always hated it as it was to hard to get going it was made wrong and was bent like a banana had about 3 inches of rocker,got rid of it and brought a bic salsa ,lot better board
Ok, the good old tyronsea in one of it's last graphics before the company went bust was made of simple ABS plastic heated in two parts in separate moulds then joined together with a glue and pumped full of 2 pack foam which can soak up water like a sponge.
We used to repair the thousands that we sold in the Eighties with epoxy after a bit of a sanding with 80# but I would definitely think that given the age that a Sikaflex would be the better option given that the ABS would be dry and brittle.....have fun and remember that I can lend you my electric chainsaw lol
Slice a small sliver off the trailing edge of the centre board and use it as a filler rod to plastic weld the split seam