Most forums would have a post for good tips and tricks, usually can be made a sticky, so I thought I would try and start one...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.
So, next time you rig up, you will find that it is easier to thread the downhaul the sail, pull on the boom, cleat the downhaul etc if you rig on the right. Sails logos are to be viewed on the right except for Severne.
This tip was from Guy Cribb's Intuition and has saved me minutes
Select to expand quoteGrumpySmurf said...
[br]Most forums would have a post for good tips and tricks, usually can be made a sticky, so I thought I would try and start one...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.
So, next time you rig up, you will find that it is easier to thread the downhaul the sail, pull on the boom, cleat the downhaul etc if you rig on the right. Sails logos are to be viewed on the right except for Severne.
This tip was from Guy Cribb's Intuition and has saved me minutes
Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.
Always do up the vent plug.
Always tighten your mast base (30 sec saves 30minute swim)
Select to expand quoteSubsonic said..
If you fall off your board, you can expect to be used as a gybe mark.
so, so true !!!! 
Select to expand quoteikw777 said..GrumpySmurf said...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.
Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.
But then you have to flip the sail when you pick up your gear after rigging. If you rigged on starboard you wouldn't have to. I think.
I still don't get this reason.
It's got to do with parking your car on the left and rigging on that little strip of grass next to the car.
Select to expand quoteevlPanda said..ikw777 said..GrumpySmurf said...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.
Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.
But then you have to flip the sail when you pick up your gear after rigging. If you rigged on starboard you wouldn't have to. I think.
I still don't get this reason.
Here's an old thread that discussed this issue but at that time I was use to rigging my Severne Code Red on its port side so it was foreign to rig on the starboard side. Since then all my Lofts rig on the starboard side and I have flipped the clamps of my booms if the clamp rope didn't attach over the topside (of the mast)opposed to underneath were the taut luff panel made it very difficult to fit the rope toi the clamp.[does any of that make sense ????]
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/Rigging-KA-Koncept/
Select to expand quotesausage said..evlPanda said..ikw777 said..GrumpySmurf said...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.
Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.
But then you have to flip the sail when you pick up your gear after rigging. If you rigged on starboard you wouldn't have to. I think.
I still don't get this reason.
Here's an old thread that discussed this issue but at that time I was use to rigging my Severne Code Red on its port side so it was foreign to rig on the starboard side. Since then all my Lofts rig on the starboard side and I have flipped the clamps of my booms if the clamp rope didn't attach over the topside (of the mast)opposed to underneath were the taut luff panel made it very difficult to fit the rope toi the clamp.[does any of that make sense ????]
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/Rigging-KA-Koncept/
Yes. For those of us who have experienced that exact problem it makes perfect sense. Good idea.
Select to expand quoteGrumpySmurf said..
Most forums would have a post for good tips and tricks, usually can be made a sticky, so I thought I would try and start one...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.
So, next time you rig up, you will find that it is easier to thread the downhaul the sail, pull on the boom, cleat the downhaul etc if you rig on the right. Sails logos are to be viewed on the right except for Severne.
This tip was from Guy Cribb's Intuition and has saved me minutes
Useful tip
Low booms for wave sailing ...
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Wave-sailing/The-Video-Guy-Cribb-INtuition-Gerroa/
Select to expand quoteda vecta said..
It's got to do with parking your car on the left and rigging on that little strip of grass next to the car.
We've also got little strips of grass on the east coast.
Select to expand quotesausage said..
Here's an old thread that discussed this issue but at that time I was use to rigging my Severne Code Red on its port side so it was foreign to rig on the starboard side. Since then all my Lofts rig on the starboard side and I have flipped the clamps of my booms if the clamp rope didn't attach over the topside (of the mast)opposed to underneath were the taut luff panel made it very difficult to fit the rope toi the clamp.[does any of that make sense ????]
I did the same thing by accident when I reassembled my chinook boom with the head on upside down. It works much better for rigging for the same reason. I then realised I could just use my other chinook boom upside down, after swapping the harness lines, for the same effect... duh 
Much better than rigging with the clamp hinging at the top, which I found out recently when using another boom.
Now for my tip. Buy the Guy Cribb DVD before going on one of his clinics, so that you can remember what he teaches you.
I just bought it (after the clinic) and finally figured out that straightening the front arm during a gybe is a great way to effectively sheet in when you find it hard to sheet in using the back hand. Very effective when you are well powered up. This is despite Guy mentioning it a few times... Apparently I need to see it on the DVD to actually remember it and try it...
and I am still amazed by people that don't tape up their mast join. I don't think I have had a mast stick together ever since I started doing this, and never have to worry about the mast coming apart inside the luff sleeve when derigging.
Mind you, not everyone uses a whole roll like I do...
Select to expand quoteFormulaNova said..
and I am still amazed by people that don't tape up their mast join. I don't think I have had a mast stick together ever since I started doing this, and never have to worry about the mast coming apart inside the luff sleeve when derigging.
Mind you, not everyone uses a whole roll like I do...
I've had two this year. I aught to know better.
Luckily it's a tough mast and a POP to pull it apart with the car. You just need a few tie down tapes and some arcane ropes lore. (Google "icicle hitch")
Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.
Select to expand quotegavnwend said..
Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.
Everything? There are tons of different techniques. Just don't try heating it.
1. 2 to 4 booms attached and rotated by sumo wrestlers.
2. Spanish windlass and one boom.
3. Pull apart with car.
4. Support at ends, rotate and bend and repeat until you hear a little crunching.
5. Water pressure through the mast tip. You need a coupling of some sort for a hose.
Your fin isn't designed to be a depth gauge for sand bars. Step off before you hit the sand not afterwards. I seem to always misjudge the depth of water and end up with a fin just a little shorter than it was designed for.
Also on this subject, a gybe takes more room than you think, don't start too close to shore or ouch.
Select to expand quotegavnwend said...
Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.
Just thinking along physics but wouldnt cold be a way shrinking I.e. heat expands. Maybe ask at the local bottle shop if u can leave it in the large beer fridge for an hour or two then have a go. Might sound dumb but has some theory behind it. Worst case u can stock up on the beers
Select to expand quoteLittleOnion said...gavnwend said...
Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.
Just thinking along physics but wouldnt cold be a way shrinking I.e. heat expands. Maybe ask at the local bottle shop if u can leave it in the large beer fridge for an hour or two then have a go. Might sound dumb but has some theory behind it. Worst case u can stock up on the beers
If you could get it cold enough it would just shrink the entire joint making harder to separate. Surely heat would expand the entire connection and.make it easier to.separate.
Select to expand quotegavnwend said...
Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.
My 400 wave mast ( tsunami) has been fused together for almost 2 years l have even taken it into engineers shops ^ & they have tried to free it to no avail .any more solutions will be good.
