Been on holidays for last week and in between some good sailing sessions have been doing some projects in the shed. Number one on the list was a double sided out haul. Epoxied and heat shrunk some joins/eyes, pleased with the way it looks.
Up cycled some down haul pulley blocks to hopefully improve out haul pulley operation.
On the side burner for the moment, but may up cycle some more bits of down haul block for boom pulley block system
That's tidy. I guess the second photo is a cord to bungee joint. How are they joined?
Second question: How do you adjust the length of cord for different sails?
Been thinking about trying some longer harness lines, only made the one at this stage and plan to put it on one side of boom and try. After some guesstimating measurements from my 28cm lines I ended up about 3cm longer.
Select to expand quoteNotWal said..
That's tidy. I guess the second photo is a cord to bungee joint. How are they joined?
Second question: How do you adjust the length of cord for different sails?
Epoxy, 5 min Araldite, used a tooth pick to penetrate into end of bungee cord about 5-8mm to hopefully hold it together then coated outsides cord/bungee in epoxy and then heat shrunk together.
Have both bungees on small ally snaphooks that can be unhooked so your not fighting the bungee pulling into cleat when rigging and can shorten these easily if required. BUT, I've set this up for biggest sail and the plan is to make tail section rope adjustable so the gripper ball stays in the same place all the time. not sure how yet but maybe another snap hook or tie loop in rope to shorten.
ps. think I made a mistake with the 6mm bungee, its a bit firm, may replace with 3-4 mm if its a problem.
Select to expand quotetrimmer said..
That's cool but i don't think your boom grip will last to long. 
Your right there, was thinking about putting some sort of thin plastic under but will try some insulation or similar tape first, different colours? for different sail sizes? Could simplify harness line sweet spot placement.
Is the clear plastic cover on manufactured harness lines the same as the gear from the local hardware or is it something way more durable ?
Select to expand quotepirrad said..
Is the clear plastic cover on manufactured harness lines the same as the gear from the local hardware or is it something way more durable ?
No it's urethane. The stuff at the local hardware is vinyl. There's a world of difference in durability.
Select to expand quoteNotWal said..
pirrad said..
Is the clear plastic cover on manufactured harness lines the same as the gear from the local hardware or is it something way more durable ?
No it's urethane. The stuff at the local hardware is vinyl. There's a world of difference in durability.
Thanks. Thought so, you can feel the difference.
Must put that on the shopping list Yuppy, would be handy at times.
Select to expand quoteNotWal said...pirrad said..
Is the clear plastic cover on manufactured harness lines the same as the gear from the local hardware or is it something way more durable ?
No it's urethane. The stuff at the local hardware is vinyl. There's a world of difference in durability.
Any idea where I can get this tube in Australia?
if you want a cheap alt go to any truck parts and buy air brake plastic airline avliable in metric 10 or 12 or imperial 3/8 or 1/2 inch take what ever size rope you want to fit they will sell by the meter.ask for thick wall tube
Pirrad, bit concerned for your method of "splicing". 5 min araldite isn't the strongest of adhesives. Suspect as the rope "works" the bond will be broken.
Splicing this rope is really simple. There are special tools for it but can be done with PH screwdriver. Just insert the screw driver about 3-5cm further back from where you want the join th be and slide it inside the outer sheath of rope to where you want the eye to form. Then take the end of the rope and follow the screwdriver as you withdraw the screwdiver. Remember to allow for the 3-5 cm tail for the splice plus a bit to work with when marking out.
Select to expand quotelongwinded said..
Pirrad, bit concerned for your method of "splicing". 5 min araldite isn't the strongest of adhesives. Suspect as the rope "works" the bond will be broken.
Splicing this rope is really simple. There are special tools for it but can be done with PH screwdriver. Just insert the screw driver about 3-5cm further back from where you want the join th be and slide it inside the outer sheath of rope to where you want the eye to form. Then take the end of the rope and follow the screwdriver as you withdraw the screwdiver. Remember to allow for the 3-5 cm tail for the splice plus a bit to work with when marking out.
Watched some youtube videos and searched e/bay for the tools, then went and had a crack with the tools at my disposal, easy as pie with low grade loose weave low quality sh!t cord that I wouldn't use on windsurfing kit. Then tried some quality cord, ffffffaaarr out what a marathon and cant justify buying the right tools. Learnt to splice all matter of rope including wire rope when working for BHP, correct, thoroughly enjoyed it, easy with the right tools.
Not a fan of the loose/swinging type harness lines so have made a second one and inserted 100mm of 2.5 thick copper wire into cord core half into plastic half around boom arm and made it a lot firmer as I had hoped. What a marathon it was getting that in.
Select to expand quotegrich62 said..
if you want a cheap alt go to any truck parts and buy air brake plastic airline avliable in metric 10 or 12 or imperial 3/8 or 1/2 inch take what ever size rope you want to fit they will sell by the meter.ask for thick wall tube
Thanks mate, will do. The postage from sailworks is killer.
Select to expand quotepirrad said...longwinded said..
Pirrad, bit concerned for your method of "splicing". 5 min araldite isn't the strongest of adhesives. Suspect as the rope "works" the bond will be broken.
Splicing this rope is really simple. There are special tools for it but can be done with PH screwdriver. Just insert the screw driver about 3-5cm further back from where you want the join th be and slide it inside the outer sheath of rope to where you want the eye to form. Then take the end of the rope and follow the screwdriver as you withdraw the screwdiver. Remember to allow for the 3-5 cm tail for the splice plus a bit to work with when marking out.
Watched some youtube videos and searched e/bay for the tools, then went and had a crack with the tools at my disposal, easy as pie with low grade loose weave low quality sh!t cord that I wouldn't use on windsurfing kit. Then tried some quality cord, ffffffaaarr out what a marathon and cant justify buying the right tools. Learnt to splice all matter of rope including wire rope when working for BHP, correct, thoroughly enjoyed it, easy with the right tools.
After posting that, went and grabbed the fancy tools and gave it a go. FARK! Thought I'd just given advice that would result in a trip to ED.
Should've remembered advice from the bloke who taught me how to splice. Doing ropework in front of people is like playing patience in the pub, every d**khead has an opinion on what you're doing wrong!
I agree the epoxy won't hold it, the rope is made from thermoplastics that just don't glue well.
I'd be interested to know how long it lasts....
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said...
I agree the epoxy won't hold it, the rope is made from thermoplastics that just don't glue well.
I'd be interested to know how long it lasts....
I'll use it until it breaks and let you know. If nothing else I'm sure it will last long enough to test the theory I need longer lines.
Need to source some self glued heat shrink and better tube and plan B will be something like this.
