Forums > Windsurfing General

Removing a large euro pin to replace with smaller

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Created by K Dog > 9 months ago, 19 Dec 2012
K Dog
VIC, 1847 posts
19 Dec 2012 11:38AM
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I have a Gunn euro pin uni base with a long pin, and have a small pin to replace it with (also Gunn). There is a locktite glue that is on the existing pin, anyone had a go at replacing one? clockwise thread or anti-clockwise?

Just holding it as it is with one hand on the mast base and using a spanner in the other is not really making it budge........




redsurfbus
304 posts
19 Dec 2012 8:42AM
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Just cut it shorter!

legless
SA, 852 posts
19 Dec 2012 11:34AM
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ideally a vice to or something to hold the base in place then you can apply your effort to the spanner to loosen the pin the longer the spanner length the easier it is.

K Dog
VIC, 1847 posts
19 Dec 2012 12:14PM
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Hmm.... got no vice... and chances are would mangle up the rubber and nylon straps in the vice too........

Hoping someone has done this before cleanly.....

pirrad
SA, 850 posts
19 Dec 2012 11:44AM
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ive used a heat gun, paint stripper type ,not oxy
this softens the locktite, just be carefull not to use too much heat and damage the rubber.

how much is too much,how long is a piece of string?

K Dog
VIC, 1847 posts
19 Dec 2012 12:17PM
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pirrad said...
ive used a heat gun, paint stripper type ,not oxy
this softens the locktite, just be carefull not to use too much heat and damage the rubber.

how much is too much,how long is a piece of string?


Then just with your hand holding it and using a spanner? Cheers for chiming in.

pirrad
SA, 850 posts
19 Dec 2012 11:58AM
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pliers like this will spread the load better than a vice.

wrap some insulation tape aroud it or a piece of car tube and use a pair of these. right on the end, not around the middle.

legless
SA, 852 posts
19 Dec 2012 12:02PM
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K Dog said...
Hmm.... got no vice... and chances are would mangle up the rubber and nylon straps in the vice too........

Hoping someone has done this before cleanly.....


If you had a vice you just wrap the universal with a old cloth to give it some protection. Same can be done with a wrench around the top of the universal and a spanner on the pin. It is easier to hold the wrench to counter the spanner. But warming it up sounds like a good idea. putting the pin in boiling water (hold the base upside down over some boiling water so only the pin is submerged.) might work and less chance of burning the rubber universal or webbing.

Paul Kelf
WA, 678 posts
19 Dec 2012 10:50AM
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K Dog said...

I have a Gunn euro pin uni base with a long pin, and have a small pin to replace it with (also Gunn). There is a locktite glue that is on the existing pin, anyone had a go at replacing one? clockwise thread or anti-clockwise?

Just holding it as it is with one hand on the mast base and using a spanner in the other is not really making it budge........







Not sure why you want to shorten the pin but if you must, just cut it down with a hacksaw & debur with a file.

If you want to change the pin, heat the pin over the gas stove (not too hot) it will make the loctite soft.
Keep trying to unscrew while heating the end of the pin, then put it in cold water as soon as its undone.
There is a brass or alloy insert inside the Uni so the rubber won't be damaged if you are quick about it.
Definitely a RH thread.

K Dog
VIC, 1847 posts
19 Dec 2012 2:28PM
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Paul Kelf said...
K Dog said...

I have a Gunn euro pin uni base with a long pin, and have a small pin to replace it with (also Gunn). There is a locktite glue that is on the existing pin, anyone had a go at replacing one? clockwise thread or anti-clockwise?

Just holding it as it is with one hand on the mast base and using a spanner in the other is not really making it budge........







Not sure why you want to shorten the pin but if you must, just cut it down with a hacksaw & debur with a file.

If you want to change the pin, heat the pin over the gas stove (not too hot) it will make the loctite soft.
Keep trying to unscrew while heating the end of the pin, then put it in cold water as soon as its undone.
There is a brass or alloy insert inside the Uni so the rubber won't be damaged if you are quick about it.
Definitely a RH thread.


My preference is to keep it tidy..... not the hassle of cutting it.... but either way looks like its involved..... try one way and no luck cut.............

The Chinock extension has a size limit on it.... so I can't get the mast base pin all the way in the hole......

Thanks for your suggestions gents.

powersloshin
NSW, 1835 posts
19 Dec 2012 5:14PM
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I had the same problem with one of my extensions when I changed to this base and i just drilled a hole in the extension.

Mark _australia
WA, 23433 posts
20 Dec 2012 2:21PM
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Another reason Chinook tendon style is better than Boge (hourglass) uni.

Heat the pin as mentioned, about 100deg will do it, and hold the top of the rubber with adjustable pliers and it should be not too hard.

yoyo
WA, 1646 posts
20 Dec 2012 8:05PM
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Mark _australia said...
Another reason Chinook tendon style is better than Boge (hourglass) uni.

Heat the pin as mentioned, about 100deg will do it, and hold the top of the rubber with adjustable pliers and it should be not too hard.


you're kidding, right?

nearly all my sailing buddies have had a tendon break. I've found Boge not only less likely to let go but start with a small tear (maybe onlty a couple % of area/volumne) so you have plenty of warning that you need to get another.

Haircut
QLD, 6490 posts
20 Dec 2012 10:33PM
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just a generalisation of the reliability situation to follow;

boge hourglass tendon = good

chinook hourglass tendon = good

chinook cup = good

neil pryde cup = good

europins = not so good

cylindrical tendons = not so good

a wise man once said (on many an occasion) "he who uses 'euro pin' only has himself to blame"

there are lots of threads from the past on here about it. there aren't many folk who give their gear a decent flogging who will praise europin or the cylindrical tendon, though not all europins are created equal

nosinkanow
NSW, 441 posts
21 Dec 2012 7:30AM
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Tightly wrap rope or even an old shirt around uni till it bulges and use multigrip pliers to hold it firmly if vice is not available. You can usually break the Loctite with this method without heating it....unless it was assembled with Red Loctite which would be insane for whoever applied it.

swoosh
QLD, 1928 posts
21 Dec 2012 8:59AM
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i tried to get one of those boges appart once. it's basically impossible. just cut it out and invest in a new boge, not that expensive really.

also found that the plastic nut set in the rubber was cracked, with no way to visually inspect it, i'm steering clear of them.

Mark _australia
WA, 23433 posts
21 Dec 2012 8:26AM
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yoyo said...
Mark _australia said...
Another reason Chinook tendon style is better than Boge (hourglass) uni.

Heat the pin as mentioned, about 100deg will do it, and hold the top of the rubber with adjustable pliers and it should be not too hard.


you're kidding, right?

nearly all my sailing buddies have had a tendon break. I've found Boge not only less likely to let go but start with a small tear (maybe only a couple % of area/volumne) so you have plenty of warning that you need to get another.


BOGE: can't see the crack starting in some places due to wide strap.

I'd rather trust downhaul rope as the failsafe, then a piece of nylon strap which may be worn under the joint where you can't see it, and it has a hole thru it anyway. You can replace the downhaul rope too.

I have had 4 years out of a tendon and then replaced it vountarily when I realised just how old it was. Others I changed after 2yrs just cos. Is that not enough?

But the main issue I am raising here is serviceability. Buy Chinook tendon uni's and you have fatter bolts (no seizing up) and big chunky metal cups that are CNC machined from stainless and you can bung it in a vice and wrench on it. Unlike Boge and unlike the old cast alum cups on older tendon bases.

K Dog
VIC, 1847 posts
21 Dec 2012 12:46PM
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Ah

I'm always buying things that need to be fixed...... why can't windsurfing gear all be generic fittings.......... windsurfing engineers pay attention

Paul Kelf
WA, 678 posts
21 Dec 2012 11:02AM
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K Dog said...
Ah

I'm always buying things that need to be fixed...... why can't windsurfing gear all be generic fittings.......... windsurfing engineers pay attention


Recently a mate bought a new mast base the same as his existing one assuming it would also fit his "same brand" extension, wrong!!!!

When he got to Cervantes he discovered that it didn't fit.
He had to remove about 1mm from the bottom of the extension to make it work.

There is excuse for crap like that [}:)]



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"Removing a large euro pin to replace with smaller" started by K Dog