Has anyone tried using the surface left by peel ply as a deck grip? Instead of sugar or acrylic dust?
Or does this rank in the top ten of stupidest questions asked on seabreeze?
Last few boards I've made, the surface made me think of that but I decided it wasn't coarse enough.
+ one.
But it would be interesting if somebody tried it, to really find out.
Use shade cloth.
The sharpest resin spikes U can imagine after U remove it.
I dare ya
Anyway I second that peel ply grip is too smooth but seems we all pondered it huh
I would think shade cloth would work well because it's rough and sharp feeling . I'd think you would have to catch it at gel stage or it will be part of your board . But if your thinking of doing it , you might as well do sugar .
A few years ago I sugar coated a board , which I'm still using today . I was a bit thick on the resin and I just used normal sugar . It was so rough it hurt . So I sanded it down with 400 grit . I thought I sanded too much because it felt slippery . I thought I'd wrecked it . Gave it a go anyway . It is the perfect grip . I'm not sure what is going on , but I believe it's the zillions of holes working like mini suction cups that works rather than protruding spikes . I use bare feet . It's the best deck grip I've ever done .
I use shadecloth when bagging on wood.
The resin draw-thru leaves insane peaks
Cheesegrater stuff.
It rips off just fine
Neither
I do a layer of 4oz wet out, then a very thin layer of resin on the underside of wood.
Vac pressure pulls resin thru the softer parts of the wood and its then rough from the shadecloth....... but also I have a perimeter of too much glass (in case the wood misses where it should be by a bit - something cobra excel at getting wrong) and where the shadecloth was laid over just the glass it is sharp as hell.
A few years ago I sugar coated a board , which I'm still using today . I was a bit thick on the resin and I just used normal sugar . It was so rough it hurt . So I sanded it down with 400 grit . I thought I sanded too much because it felt slippery . I thought I'd wrecked it . Gave it a go anyway . It is the perfect grip . I'm not sure what is going on , but I believe it's the zillions of holes working like mini suction cups that works rather than protruding spikes . I use bare feet . It's the best deck grip I've ever done .
Ditto. Also used deck grip and matte clear coat. Works well. As usual it's all about prep workl!
A few years ago I sugar coated a board , which I'm still using today . I was a bit thick on the resin and I just used normal sugar . It was so rough it hurt . So I sanded it down with 400 grit . I thought I sanded too much because it felt slippery . I thought I'd wrecked it . Gave it a go anyway . It is the perfect grip . I'm not sure what is going on , but I believe it's the zillions of holes working like mini suction cups that works rather than protruding spikes . I use bare feet . It's the best deck grip I've ever done .
Ditto. Also used deck grip and matte clear coat. Works well. As usual it's all about prep workl!
But we can clear coat over existing grip which is always nice. Always good to give a nice rough sanding scrub anyway.
Some early '80s board makers used "waffle and ridges" method using polyester resin and 8oz fibreglass mat (boards were PU blanks/PE resin back then). The FG Mat was pulled off when resin half cured. Once you could cut the cloth with a razor and the cloth didn't pull it was ready to remove, best not to mix too much MEK in the resin. These were surfboard manufacturers and the graphics were painted on the foam blank so they wanted laminates and deck grip to be clear (not opaque) to highlight the nice artwork on the blank.
By mid '80s PU foam dust was used more as deck grip and the move to styrene blank/epoxy resin in the 90s also changed things as boards were painted after lamination.
Now most manufacturers spray on 2 pack polyurethane and acrylic dust (made from recycled lenses) for deck grip.
Am interested to find an economical source for acrylic dust instead of overpriced Intergrip from marine chandlery.
I have done it - it works but depends on the peel-ply. There are actually quite a few varieties. It does wear because resin is softer than most grit used in our boards...
Has anyone tried using the surface left by peel ply as a deck grip? Instead of sugar or acrylic dust?
Or does this rank in the top ten of stupidest questions asked on seabreeze?
Fiberspar made some booms to test this technique instead glued EVA grip. They said that was better than traditional grip with some added features like small diameter (due lack of EVA layer) and more durable surface. But they abandoned the idea after some Beta test.
Some early '80s board makers used "waffle and ridges" method using polyester resin and 8oz fibreglass mat (boards were PU blanks/PE resin back then). The FG Mat was pulled off when resin half cured. Once you could cut the cloth with a razor and the cloth didn't pull it was ready to remove, best not to mix too much MEK in the resin. These were surfboard manufacturers and the graphics were painted on the foam blank so they wanted laminates and deck grip to be clear (not opaque) to highlight the nice artwork on the blank.
By mid '80s PU foam dust was used more as deck grip and the move to styrene blank/epoxy resin in the 90s also changed things as boards were painted after lamination.
Now most manufacturers spray on 2 pack polyurethane and acrylic dust (made from recycled lenses) for deck grip.
Am interested to find an economical source for acrylic dust instead of overpriced Intergrip from marine chandlery.
Use quarz instead of acrylic dust. That?s how they made it.