Ya know, if footstraps had TWO bolts, or screws, at each end, I wouldn't have to tighten them to their limits, and have them still ****ing twist nonetheless.
And I'd move them around and experiment more too.
Just sayin'.
Ya know, if footstraps had TWO bolts, or screws, at each end, I wouldn't have to tighten them to their limits, and have them still ****ing twist nonetheless.
And I'd move them around and experiment more too.
Just sayin'.
most boards used to have two screws but apparently its too hard for most people to comprehend, like you , I recon two screws are better.
I've always preferred one screw because it slowed them to twist slightly and conform to the shape of your foot.
Don't twist for me when using any of the anti-twist devices
Don't pull out.
Tighten once a season.
If all were two screws, we'd need more inserts to have the same adjustability.
I'm a fan of 2 screws, haven't had a problem with 1 apart from the odd strap twisting but 2 always worked and was much easier
Logic would say the straps compress, as does the pad, so you tighten the straps the 1st time, then add a turn after 2 days of use, then one turn after 4 more days, then again if needed by twisting each strap each session.
We, as humans, have big feet, small feet, wide to narrow, weigh 100-250 lbs., and have personal preferences for angles and locations.
Why are there 3 holes at each end of the strap? Does anybody ever use the lateral holes?
If you are talking about the holes in the strap, the centre one is obviously for a single screw setup, and the two outer ones are for when you use two screw mounting. Usually, at least on the common brands, the two holes are an inch apart which aligns with the insert spacing on chinook footstrap inserts. I think some other straps have become metric and spaced the holes at 2cm which is a pain.
Also, there are a few anti twist setups that have inserts that go into the two outside holes and use the centre hole for the screw.
As for twisting, on almost all the boards I have modified I have used two screws at each end of the strap and have never had any twist. I bought a custom board recently and asked for the same and it seems that instead they use two screws on the front side of the strap and a single screw at the back end of the strap. It works perfectly. No twisting.
Why are there 3 holes at each end of the strap? Does anybody ever use the lateral holes?
If you are talking about the holes in the strap, the centre one is obviously for a single screw setup, and the two outer ones are for when you use two screw mounting. Usually, at least on the common brands, the two holes are an inch apart which aligns with the insert spacing on chinook footstrap inserts. I think some other straps have become metric and spaced the holes at 2cm which is a pain.
Also, there are a few anti twist setups that have inserts that go into the two outside holes and use the centre hole for the screw.
As for twisting, on almost all the boards I have modified I have used two screws at each end of the strap and have never had any twist. I bought a custom board recently and asked for the same and it seems that instead they use two screws on the front side of the strap and a single screw at the back end of the strap. It works perfectly. No twisting.
Agree.......Carbonart use two screws at the front and one rear on the slalom boards...I followed suit on my boards and it works perfectly, no twisting.
I never have any issues with twisting straps. Must be a problem for some individuals and not others.
Why are there 3 holes at each end of the strap? Does anybody ever use the lateral holes?
If you are talking about the holes in the strap, the centre one is obviously for a single screw setup, and the two outer ones are for when you use two screw mounting. Usually, at least on the common brands, the two holes are an inch apart which aligns with the insert spacing on chinook footstrap inserts. I think some other straps have become metric and spaced the holes at 2cm which is a pain.
Also, there are a few anti twist setups that have inserts that go into the two outside holes and use the centre hole for the screw.
As for twisting, on almost all the boards I have modified I have used two screws at each end of the strap and have never had any twist. I bought a custom board recently and asked for the same and it seems that instead they use two screws on the front side of the strap and a single screw at the back end of the strap. It works perfectly. No twisting.
Agree.......Carbonart use two screws at the front and one rear on the slalom boards...I followed suit on my boards and it works perfectly, no twisting.
It's not at all clear what you guys mean by this. It sounds like 3 screws per footstrap with 2 in one end and one in the other. Is that right?
Bolts have nuts. Screws get fastened into the footstrap inserts.
fixing footstraps especially new, is somewhat frustrating. Harder than brushing your teeth
Now that I know how 3 screw holes can be used, can someone tell me if a fix is possible on my board. The footstrap screw sheared off and remains in the hole so that 1 strap position is unusable. Can the plug be removed and replaced?
Easy , just drill another hole right next to it . As long as it's between other holes to make sure it's in the plug and not running off the edge , it should be fine.
Now that I know how 3 screw holes can be used, can someone tell me if a fix is possible on my board. The footstrap screw sheared off and remains in the hole so that 1 strap position is unusable. Can the plug be removed and replaced?
Best thing would be to try to get the broken screw out. You would need to research the various methods first.
Now that I know how 3 screw holes can be used, can someone tell me if a fix is possible on my board. The footstrap screw sheared off and remains in the hole so that 1 strap position is unusable. Can the plug be removed and replaced?
Best thing would be to try to get the broken screw out. You would need to research the various methods first.
That's me ,I know most of the methods of getting stuck bolts and screws out . This is not going to be easy if the screw has broken at plug level. Easyout system won't work on such a small screw size . You would certainly snap the smallest Easyout because the screw is jammed in sooo tight . I'm presuming that's how it broke. Even if that's not how it broke , it would still be in super tight . If you can't get Vicegrips on the end of it , I'd reckon it's in there to stay.
There are other ways , none that I know of that wouldn't wreck the plastic hole.
But we never stop learning ![]()
Why are there 3 holes at each end of the strap? Does anybody ever use the lateral holes?
If you are talking about the holes in the strap, the centre one is obviously for a single screw setup, and the two outer ones are for when you use two screw mounting. Usually, at least on the common brands, the two holes are an inch apart which aligns with the insert spacing on chinook footstrap inserts. I think some other straps have become metric and spaced the holes at 2cm which is a pain.
Also, there are a few anti twist setups that have inserts that go into the two outside holes and use the centre hole for the screw.
As for twisting, on almost all the boards I have modified I have used two screws at each end of the strap and have never had any twist. I bought a custom board recently and asked for the same and it seems that instead they use two screws on the front side of the strap and a single screw at the back end of the strap. It works perfectly. No twisting.
Agree.......Carbonart use two screws at the front and one rear on the slalom boards...I followed suit on my boards and it works perfectly, no twisting.
It's not at all clear what you guys mean by this. It sounds like 3 screws per footstrap with 2 in one end and one in the other. Is that right?
Yes...3 screws per strap. This is how the Masterblaster is set up. In my opinion a great compromise for saving weight with fewer plugs while still stopping twist.

Now that I know how 3 screw holes can be used, can someone tell me if a fix is possible on my board. The footstrap screw sheared off and remains in the hole so that 1 strap position is unusable. Can the plug be removed and replaced?
Not that I have tried it but the technique that was mentioned here with the most promise is the one where you use a soldering iron to heat up the remains of the screw, and either get a grip on it with pliers or cut a slot in it with a dremel, and then turn it out.
The melted plastic will make it easy to unscrew and leave the thread still okay for the next screw.
Nice theory , and I love theory's but I don't think it will work .
If you could conduct enough heat on the screw I would think the plastic would catch fire before any heat would go down more than 5mm of the screw due to heat transfer . When plastic is solid it is a good heat insulater, when molten it transfers heat , so the plug will have to be molten all the way down the screw , to do this your garage will be on fire ![]()
This kind of plastic has no softening middle ground .
ps: I'm a plastic nerd , I've been melting the stuff for 30 years ![]()
Yeah, I tend to believe it. Stainless steel will conduct heat much better than the plastic around it.
I have regular soldering irons at home and one I bought to do more automotive stuff, and I can't remember the wattage, but I am sure it would heat up the screw enough to soften the plastic around it quite easily. Its the type that you don't really hold on something too long otherwise its too much.
If I had one spare I might even try this on a spare footstrap insert just to see what happens when you can easily get to it.
That would be an interesting experiment .
If the screw is sticking up a bit it could work , if it is flush with the plug it would be more challenging .
Love an experiment.