Noticed how hot the black stripe on my 2019 Goya Bolt got when sitting out on the beach in just partial Florida sun, got too hot to hold hand on for long! So painted black stripe white using automotive paint like Mark_A suggested, looks good will see how it holds up. Was worried the heat would contribute to delamination down the road, though all is good right now, and that is the time to do it. Board really looks cool now
, it is the Goya Bolt Florida special edition!
New white stripe
Old black stripe got so hot it radiated heat into lighter colored areas.
my previously added deck pads, in front of the front foot straps, blend in better with the white paint.
Select to expand quoteSurferKris said..
The change in colour turned out nice, what are the added deck pads for?
Thanks SurferKris! The added deck pads were put on to cover the concave deck ridge because the mast was hitting the ridge that ran around the concave deck and denting it, also I stand in that area when slogging and also when tacking, and when taking a break out on the water I sit there, and when using a Guy Cribb "easy beach start" to get on the board I put my hands and knees on those pads. In addition, if I do not have enough speed to get around on a planing gybe (using a foil) with my front foot in the strap, I will move my front foot in front of the strap onto the pad before switching my stance (think that is how windsurfers end up with a soft spot on the deck in front of the front foot straps). After installing the deck pads a guy from Sandy Point Progressive Sports in S. Daytona Beach FL suggested using a longer M8 bolt on my single bolt mast base to raise the mast base so the mast could not hit the ridge, that took a 3/4" shim to accomplish. Now the mast will compress the dual density deck pad just a little near the ridge, and then meets up flat with the rest of the deck pad between the ridge and rail.
And the new deck padding prevents wear on the sole of my booties, wore out the soles on one pair.
only question now is how long to let the paint dry, can says recoat before 2 hr or after 48 hr, so thinking at least 48 hr before exposing to salt water for a couple of hours. But can also says wait a week before buffing with wax or polish, going to call them.
Rustoleum support said wait a week before exposing to salt water, oh well, will give my elbow the time it needs to fully recover.
Decided to add a clear top coat, both paint and clear coat are automotive "enamel" paints, which take a week to cure. Is there any way to test the finish to see if it has cured enough to see salt water? Read about using thumb nail to see if it left a dent (not cured) or not (cured).
So here is my take on this paint job, I painted over the deck grip with white paint, and so my concern was that while the deck still seems grippy enough (though I do not generally stand in the painted areas) any wear on the new paint would allow the sharp tips of the grip to be exposed and then the original black color would reflect through the clear grip. So I gave it two good coats of clear enamel (after 48 hr) on top of the enamel white to prevent that from happening. And while enamel paint takes 7 days to cure, my feeling is it is a lot harder in the end that a lacquer spray can paint which only takes 24 hr to dry, because while the can for the enamel paint says you can polish/buff it with wax after 7 days, the can for the lacquer paint does not say anything about polishing because it probably can't be.
So after the paint had dried to the touch moved board inside the house for the low humidity, but it kept off gassing and that irritated my eyes and sinuses even though I could not smell it due the open floor plan allowing it to diffuse, that off gassing is not toxic according the Rustoleum support. So moved back into garage or porch, but rainy season is here so could not leave out continuously. Finally realized I should put it in the spare bathroom with the vent fan running on low, after 3 days since the clear top coat bathroom really smelled, but on the 4th day very little odor. Will leave in bathroom for the rest of the 7 day cure. So be careful, just because you can not smell anything in a large room/area, do not assume it is not off gassing.
Select to expand quoteSparky said..
I think next you'll need to built the Bolt a mezzanine
been thinking of extending the rear deck sideways, but do not need to hike out my rear foot that often, and putting ball of rear foot on the rail is okay once you get used to it!
Update, finally got it out, was concerned about the paint affecting the deck grip, but it worked good with booties, and no wear to the painted surfaces at the end of the session., very cool board just in time for summer!
But after the enamel paint dried to the touch in 5-6 hrs, it off-gassed VOCs for 7 days, ended up putting in a spare bathroom and let vent fan run 24/7. The vent fan has a speed adjustment next to the wall switch, so it was not running at full speed for 24/7, that would be more than needed and too loud.
Boy, see Hooper posted here on the main page but do not see their post here, same problem with Mark and Grant, must be a bug in the system!
So here is a summary, gave deck three coats of Rustoeum white enamel 15 min. apart, waited 4 days (min. wait is 2 days) to top coat with two coats of Rustoleum clear enamel with 15 min. in between. Left in well ventilated garage for 5-6 hrs after each paint session (side door open and garage overhead door open, with a breeze venting the area, used an OSHA respirator with organic vapor filters and could smell nothing with it on (without this stuff really smells and it is not good for you). Curing temps were around 80-85 degrees F (min. 72 degrees) in 50% humidity (needs to be below 65%), paint continued to off-gas for 8 days "after" the clear coat. You can test for off-gassing by keeping in a small room like a bathroom with the door closed and no vent fan running, check after a couple of hours by cracking door and smelling. If it still smells, turn vent fan back on and crack door 1", I also closed the A/C supply vent to the bathroom.
You can also use an automotive lacquer spray paint, it dries in 24 hr with no long cure time and maybe no long off-gassing time, but it is not as durable, though it could work fine, have not tried. Was worried it would wear off from foot pressure and grippy booties.
What you get is a really hard durable finish that does reduce the deck grip a little when comparing painted areas to original areas by hand, but does not affect grip when using thin booties. And of course the new white areas do not get hot in the sun!
Total time off the water was 12 days, and that gave my right forearm and elbow time to fully heal, feels good the day after my first session back. And of course Andy Brandt's windfoiling technique of using harness line to replace front arm constantly holding boom when heading upwind made the difference, now just the rear arm has to work when heading upwind by sheeting in and out as needed with no long constant holding, and because I reach far back on the boom have more leverage with less effort. My runs are 3/4 to 1-1/4 miles long. It was the long constant tension on my front forearm/bent elbows that was causing pain during and after a session.
Or could have asked, and a number of people would have said don't paint over deck grip as it WILL wear off on the bumps over time and look awful. Do it right - sand grip off, paint, re-grip with clear and acrylic dust or sugarcoat.
Great way to have devalued a $3K board with hidden damage under the extra pads and paint that will wear.
I am kinda tempted to see what Mark posted, but just do not trust all their advice anymore and do not want to have to figure out what of their advice is good and what is not, but hey thanks for the tip to use auto paint!
Hey Sandman, just ignore Mark. Why was the original black paint on your board peeling off and needing redoing? If it was a new board would t Goya warranty it?
Select to expand quoteSparky said..
Hey Sandman, just ignore Mark. Why was the original black paint on your board peeling off and needing redoing? If it was a new board would t Goya warranty it?
Thanks, I am, and No, no, nothings wrong with black paint "except" it got really hot in the Florida sun just laying on beach during short breaks, black painted areas got too hot to hold your hand on it for long, figured that can not be good for the board layup longterm. I mean, you could cook an egg on the black painted areas of that board!
So after several sessions I have to say the new white painted deck area is not as grippy as the original deck, but I like it that way because when I slide my rear foot to the opposite rail before a gybe the original deck was too grippy and I had to wiggle my foot to break free of the deck so I could slide my foot across it.
