I've got a carve 99 i'd like to do a nose job on, but i fear "dyneema re-enforced airex" is one of those ones that'll turn fuzzy and not play well with normal epoxy resin.
Anyone here played with it? What am i getting myself into?
I don't think the issue has to do with resin, but more to do with how you work with the layers. From what I know with dyneema and kevlar you usually cover the reinforcement with a layer of glass which can be sanded etc whereas you cannot sand dyneema. So you should be good to go if you have a good finish of glass cloth above the dyneema and you can sand and do whatever you need without getting down to the dyneema layer.
Let the experts confirm.
Kevlar is a giant pita to work with. If it's covered with other layers it's ok, until you reach it sanding then it becomes frayed.
carbon and glass
I haven't worked with dyneema, but with frayed kevlar, I use a very sharp blade to first shave it, then coat with a coat of spray paint that has a high shrink rate when it drys. That pulls the fibres back in, then another shave, etc until fibres don't show, then your finish coat. As mentioned it's a PITA, so a sacrificial layer of glass over the top is the best idea, just don't sand through it.
Ok, sounds promising so far. I'll be glassing it up pretty well, just a matter of trimming the fibres down beforehand.
looks like i'll have to lash out on some fresh stanley blades and give that a go. Thanks for the tips (so far)
Select to expand quoteSubsonic said..
I've got a carve 99 i'd like to do a nose job on, but i fear "dyneema re-enforced airex" is one of those ones that'll turn fuzzy and not play well with normal epoxy resin.
Anyone here played with it? What am i getting myself into?
Just use S-glass in a slow weight (4 oz or 150 g/m2). It will add an insignificant amount of weight compared to dyneema and be uncomparably easier to work with.
