Hi all,
I'm looking at making my own carbon kiteboard as the commercial ones are $1000+ and it will be interesting to give it a ago. My approach is below. I'll provide updates as I go. Happy to hear your positive and constructive thoughts.
Planning so far....
I want to keep it fairly simple first time round so looking to build a flat, finless twintip 150 x 43. I love riding finless so this works for me but maybe not for everyone. Easy enough to add fins later.
Design
On the web I found a board with an outline I like. Saved the image in PNG format and took it to OfficeWorks and got them to enlarge to the size I want (150 x 43) and print it on 2 x A1 ($10).
Core
I'm thinking 6mm marine ply from here https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/springwood/building-materials/marine-plywood-18mm-x-1-22m-x-2-44m-75p-sheet-incl-gst-/1177915600
1200 x 2400 sheet $35. I'll get two boards out of this with some spare to experiment on.
Footstraps, pads and handle
I've already got some I bought online. Not sure where from.
Carbon
Top deck - I'm looking at 3k twill 1.5m wide x 1m. I'll get 2 boards out of this. $69
www.playwithcarbon.com/3k-carbon/
Apparently the twill pattern gives strength in all direcitons, looks good and is a relatively loose weave so may be OK to wrap around the rails to protect them. Not sure if this will wrap around the 6mm ply on the rails or if i should put on rail tape? Any ideas? I'll experiment with the twill and see what happens.
Bottom - 12k Uni 1m wide x 2M. I'll get 2 boards out of this. $126
www.playwithcarbon.com/12k-carbon-fabric/
Uni-directional is important to give additional strength along the length of the board given I'm only doing 1 layer on each side.
Fibreglass
4oz over everything. Got this tip from John at Sanded. He was very helpful and will buy the glass from him. The glass layer gives you something to sand and polish as you don't want to sand straight on to the carbon layer and into the carbon fibres. I would never have thought of that.
www.sanded.com.au/collections/surfboard-fibreglass
Epoxy
Not sure which one. I've got some in the shed I'll start with. Any ideas? A slow setting one seems to be the go.
Cutting it out
1. Trace paper template to maconite board template with 5mm buffer to cater for mistakes in cutting.
2. Cut and sand masonite template to correct shape and add holes for footstraps and handle
3. Copy outline to ply
4. Cut out and sand to correct profile. I'll keep the rails square.
Top deck lay up and epoxy
I'll layout and epoxy the top desk first, then drill through to add the bolts for the footstraps and handle later. This is so I get a nice clean look on the deck without having to work around screw holes.
1. Lay up carbon and glass one on top of the other and epoxy both at the same time. Tip from John and Sanded.
I'll experiment first with the carbon and see if it wraps around the 6mm ply or if I need to use rail tape (see Sanded site). If not I'll put the rail tape on first and then just to a flat layout.
2. Epoxy the top deck. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to do this.
Bottom deck lay up and epoxy
1. Using masonite template mark drill holes for footstraps and handle on top deck.
2. Dril holes from top deck all the way through for footstraps and handle. I'm thinking I'll need a special bit so I don't damage the epoxy. I guess some tape on the drill area so the drill doesn't dance around would help. Any ideas?
3. From the bottom, counter sink holes for t-nuts so they are flush with the bottom of the board. I can't find any 316 stainless ones in OZ. Does anyone know where to get them? Good video here on how to put them in below, though he appears to be putting them in from the top of the board where as I'll put them in from the bottom for greater strength. Tape over the mounted bolts so epoxy doesn't get into the thread.
Don't think you will get a very positive response here. Try the kiting section...
I found 304 stainless t-nuts on ebay.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Qty-1-Tee-Nut-M6-6mm-Stainless-Steel-304-4-Prong-T-Nut-Blind-Timber-Wood-/262765928795?hash=item3d2e11e15b
They seem to sell them in different quantities other than 1.
How do u plan on bending the ply? Pre-bent by steaming, or pressing it down into a rocker jig?Ply is not the best as if water gets in its buggered. Only 2 layers of cloth and a first time job will let water in someplace.
Thus I would suggest the conventional method of rocker jig and corecell instead of ply.
Also, whilst twill has great drapability it will not sick to the rails on a 90deg, it will lift.
Thus I think don't try to reinvent the wheel and/or do it cheap. Do it the same as others have.
They used to pressure saturate plywood with epoxy to make it water proof.
I think you need some thick rubber bumpers around the rails so they don't hurt so much.
Actually an inflatable kiteboard might be the go. Thay are much kinder on the bonce and you already have a pump.
I once bought all the stuff to make my own, was going to use high density foam for the core and make an adjustable rocker table which to vacuum bag the board to. In the end never got around to building it and the rocker table got pitched. I'd say go for it as it should be straight forward as compared to building a windsurf board.
I've made several kiteboards using styrofoam insulation sheets, weight, 1\8" luau ply, and k glass/epoxy.
2 got bought by the leading kiteboard racer at the time..'02, the rest experimental models including 6'6" x 14cm's.
Easy to make, hard to make under 5lbs. I liked my RRD Flyin better, with a middle fin added.
Select to expand quoteLeeD said..
I've made several kiteboards using styrofoam insulation sheets, weight, 1\8" luau ply, and k glass/epoxy.
2 got bought by the leading kiteboard racer at the time..'02, the rest experimental models including 6'6" x 14cm's.
Easy to make, hard to make under 5lbs. I liked my RRD Flyin better, with a middle fin added.
Mate, ya reckon?
