What is the best solvent to use to take the graphics/screen print off a board without affecting the fibreglass finish?
Not wanting to sand or use a blade.
Fully cured epoxy will not be dissolved by acetone but the car paint used will. It will be messy, it will require thousands of rags and lots of acetone, it will reveal things you dont want to see and although the acetone will not dessolve the epoxy it may weaken it and or the filler/fairing compound just below the paint. Use caution!
Heat the graphic, sticker if the case, you would have to insert a razor blade type to lift up, continue to heat and peel.
anything else I feel involves solvents, and will be a mess.
heat gun, on trail so far as heating, or a hair dryer, not so good but
Paint over it. Black spray paint. Roughen the area with sandpaper. Mask out a simple stripe or design. Spray it.
Select to expand quoteforceten said..
Heat the graphic, sticker if the case, you would have to insert a razor blade type to lift up, continue to heat and peel.
anything else I feel involves solvents, and will be a mess.
heat gun, on trail so far as heating, or a hair dryer, not so good but
What he said if you are removing and not painting over. Many graphics are actually a giant vinyl sheet. It's like scraping a sticker off your car window. I found denatured alchohol good for removing residual glue. Spent an enjoyable summer's afternoon not too long ago doing the better part of an older formula board. In many places the vinyl was brittle from years of heat. I wish I could tell you it was fun.
Its actually screen printed but some real tough stuff, over what looks like a clear coat.
I tried nail polish remover but didnt do anything. Might need to get some stronger acetone.
I think to dissolve without scraping will be non environmental friendly.
I think my heat, remove, dissolve the sticky bits, then sand.
Nail polish remover id often acetone free
just buy acetone
Btw cover it with rags to keep wetness on the surface for longer
but if it's 2pack paint it probably won't dissolve
just wondering why not sanding? Could be lot faster and a dust mask not a real respirator (gallon of acetone is going to be unpleasant)
Agree with Mark with sanding rather than chemicals.
If you don't have a machine then you can hire and won't take long.
What is the board? Please reply with photo.
I am just finishing a refurbishment of a 155x50cm kite foilboard. I sanded the two part paint off one side using an orbital sander and the other hand wet sanding. Both were with 80 grit paper.
It took about an hour a side. It's easy enough to do, you just have to be patient. Initially there is no visible effect then things start happening.
Wet sanding is quieter, the paper lasts longer and you don't need to wear a mask. You do have a puddle of paint polluted water to deal with. It's going to end up in the storm water or soaking into the ground. You could soak it up with towels and bin it.
The machine was noisy and took twice as much paper. The filter catches most of the dust but you do need masks and ear protection. There was a light coating of dust all over the surrounding area.
The hand wet sanding is generally more relaxing and you can pace yourself. It's good to be gentle and not go at it like a mad person.
If you're super careful you can go through the paint and preserve the underlying resin and glass. There's a fair bit of finger tip sanding on spots of paint.
Ideally you will have a plan on how you want to finish the deck after the paint is gone. I did a bunch of repairs and resurfacing and it's all been painted and covered with a new deck pad.
