I would call that "mountainous seas".
I expect it is a little chilly also...
It would take some courage to get out in that.
The ballsy bit it getting past the shorebreak. He (if it is a he) actually looks like he's sailing fairly comfortably. Does get some reasonably big air at times, but nothing you wouldn't get in a 2m chop.
Why would you bother.
Because he's one of the few who can?
Dead onshore, maybe 50 knots and as Sean said, a bit choppy. Its the 'A little choppy' that makes it.
love his grin at the end...says it all...gutsy effort... must of been super hard timing the run to get out the back, I'd imagine you only get one shot at it!![]()