Hi crew! Im having issues with my 122 Falcon footstrap positions. Im 6'2" size 12 foot.
Cant seem to get the straps wide enough for my foot.
So the anti twist plates are as shown in pic. Flat side in. If i move them to inner holes will it give me more width?
Heres positions on board. Fronts i have kinda twisted front hole on outside n 2nd front on inners to get the width.
But it makes them an odd angle. Can get front foot in ok, but rears are a mission.
Any ideas?
Cheers Darkman.
Select to expand quoteolskool said..
^^ No.
I found the Dakine straps a lot more comfortable than the Fanatic straps if you can get hold of one to try it may help.
My feet are flat and wide. Ive always used the straps on their widest setting and enlarge them for a snug fit on all my Falcons. With wide feet it helps to use the farthest strap holes and adjust accordingly.
Hope this helps.
Cos I'm also big footed , when I make a board or reposition plugs , I have them 165 mm apart . Nothing worse than smashing a toe trying to get into a strap .
How far apart are your holes ?
Oh , as to your original question , if the straps are adjustable enough , the inboard holes should give you more room .
size 12 foot
, jacqui lambies ideal man. From memory, the standard straps on the starboard evo's 2006ish had the 3 way velcro system suited for well endowed folk
Ka43 my falcon only has fore n aft adjustment. No adjustment across the board. Ive got my anti twist plates on outer set of holes on footstrap, flat side inwards.If i move them to inner set of holes on strap will it give me more space ? Obviously i will have to adjust strap to get it large enough to fit across the top of my foot properly.
The way im thinking is this, coz ive got them on outer holes on strap its effectively bunching most of the strap BETWEEN holes in board. Yeah? Or Nah?
I would make an event of it .
Step 1 , it's going to take a six pack , better still , barby work and nine beers .
Step 2 , drink 3 beers , always remember , 5 minutes thinking can save 5 hours work 
Step 3 , position chair perfectly next to board .
Being an engineer and of German blood , ( and my father was a toolmaker ) , and so was I 
I can not but look at it scientifically.
A dry run is needed.
A Phillips head tool kit is needed .
Can be a one person job , but , I've found , this kind of job is best a two person project .
We need the seated footee and the confidont , slash , mechanic .
Its all about adjustments , trial , n ,error , feeling and the vibe !
Id rekon nine beers , seafood barby and a couple tequilas should get you into the ballpark .
Simples .
yes.
im drinking
Select to expand quoteolskool said..
Ka43 my falcon only has fore n aft adjustment. No adjustment across the board. Ive got my anti twist plates on outer set of holes on footstrap, flat side inwards.If i move them to inner set of holes on strap will it give me more space ? Obviously i will have to adjust strap to get it large enough to fit across the top of my foot properly.
The way im thinking is this, coz ive got them on outer holes on strap its effectively bunching most of the strap BETWEEN holes in board. Yeah? Or Nah?
Yeah
Imax1, hole centres in board are 150mm apart, frontfoot. Id also like to move the rears inboard a few centimetres. But that means changing the 25mm thick deckpad. And a spot of glassing. Then replacing the deckpad.
Imax1, drinking?? Never!!! Seafood BBQ sounds great.
But I cant be waiting until you migrate to get this done. Too many Northerlies will be missed.
HotBodMon, yes some of us are born endowed that way. 
Probably why ive never married n prefer to play the field...
Absolutely do it . Being hefty and lanky I move my front straps inboard and forward 70 mm.
Back straps , same position , in 50 mm.
I do this to a stock board before getting it wet .
Its a tried and tested formula for an average skilled 6'1 feathery 120 kg pilot.
Got to be comfy, not bent and twisted .
No need to replace pad , just add to it .
Not that big a job and well worth it .
Imax1, the rear pad aint like most. Outboard thickness is normal. But just inside inner edge of strap its at least 25mm thick. So the ball of my foot sits on the normal thickness but my toes push on the 25mm thick part. Its also quite a way in from the rail or cutout at tail of board. You could easily extend it 50mm towards rail without any issue.
After kicking buckets and being decapitated by webs in the dark , I had to check - after some minor adjustments the 1L chem bottle just slides through ( no way your hoof is that big !! ) .There must be other straps of differing brands for olskool remedy surely
Select to expand quoteolskool said..
Imax1, hole centres in board are 150mm apart, frontfoot. Id also like to move the rears inboard a few centimetres. But that means changing the 25mm thick deckpad. And a spot of glassing. Then replacing the deckpad.
It looks simular to my 122 patrik ,they are slalom race boards ,so your riding positions it slightly different to a free rider ,it does take a bit of getting use to ,i wouldn't be drilling holes just yet ,mast track a bit more forward ,and your riding on the tail ,so a heavy dude s will have some trim issues ,but frig around with different straps for sure ,I have changed most of my straps on my other boards,but do find the Patriks real nice .
I found the Dakines very soft ,and if you've got a big foot they might be the go ..when wet they feel a little sloppy to me ,i like them firm ,
neilpryde pads are another good option .
You know where your feet want to go , it's where they are before you force then into the straps.
Angled pads , no problem .
Layer it up , flapper wheel on the angle grinder .
Ive found cut grooved textured pad offers the same grip as roughly sanded flat eva , I know , it doesn't make sense .
Moulded grip is super slippery . Unless you rough sand it .
Just experimented on front straps. So i put the anti twist plates in the inner set of holes on straps. Gave me the width between board mounting holes i needed, JUST. Strap is now bigger all over for the same velcro setting. Can slip my foot in deeper without being restricted on the sides of my feet.
Originally front strap was crushing my foot along the sides.
Check that rear strap position. OUTBOARD or what !!!
Hard to get foot in without getting foot blasted off by water flying by when planing.
That looks wrong and painful .
Its like watching a stick insect trying to get into a match box .
Hard to get rear foot in. Definately need to look where ya shovin it. Otherwise your heel gets blasted off the back of board.
Ahhh Wooops!! Im doin the splits..
Doesnt make for easy sailing.
Select to expand quoteImax1 said..
That looks wrong and painful .
Its like watching a stick insect trying to get into a match box .
I definately feel like a Rhino trying to balance on a toothpick when getting in the rear straps on this bloody thing.
Amazed i havnt killed myself yet...
Your going to have to move those straps.
Even when in straps your going to need to move your weight around , being a small board .Your no prancing poodle.
Front foot, turn your feet so heel is closer to back foot. 22.5" center to center is normal for slalom boards. Foot should be pointed much more forwards and much less towards center.
Backfoot, weight is in ball of foot to arch. Never weight your heel.
That allows the fin and mast base pressure to lift the windward rail so you can ride flat to barely leeward rail down.
LeeD, yeah i get what youre saying but thats where the width of strap works against me. Even in that position its quite tight on sides of my foot. Kinda feels like theyre being compressed. Used to get aching feet from sailing other boards setup like this.
My other boards now have the straps set up wide n low. I can move my foot sideways in strap. The low height sets the depth i can get my foot in.
The Falcon just doesnt have that ability with the factory strap.
I've also got size 12 feet, and couldn't get my feet into the Drake/starboard straps that come with the iSonics and speedboards. I tried loads of different brands and was still struggling. Eventually tried Dakine Contours, they work great for me and have fitted them to all my boards. They have less padding so the opening is much bigger.
I hope owe you can find a fix.
So after more tweaking n adjusting. The rears fit perfectly, set in front hole n rear hole. Nice n easy to jam feet in. But fronts no matter what i do are still tight on sides of my feet. Holes in board are 150mm apart measured front hole to front hole. So ive set as 1st hole in outer screw n 2nd hole in inner screw. Makes the strap slightly more parallel to centreline. But gives me more width at 160mm screw to screw. Feels much better in the loungeroom. Yet to test ride. 
Wasn't skipping a hole the 1st thing you tried?
I'm only size 11 but in winter wear 5mm booties and never go bare feet in San Francisco sailing.
