Hi all, I have damaged my old 2012 Kode, which I really like, and I have two questions.
1. The nose has a crack and needs repair. I have only done small dings so far, and this one requires fibre glass cloth or matting, whatever it is called. I have searched this forum, and people say use 150g. I can only find 100g from UK suppliers. Will this work?
www.easycomposites.co.uk/glass-cloth
2. The slot box screws are loose and don't tighten. On this board, they are short self-tappers #14 * 13mm according to the shop, but they can't find a wider one. Is there a known easy fix for this?
Lots of people on this forum have a lot of experience - and most of them have responded to these types of question, so a search should help. I'm going to add a slightly different point of view.
The nose of a board gets hit by the mast, a lot... so you might think you need a "good" repair job. In a ideal world, you would need to grind/remove all of the cracked layers, then build up from there by replacing those layers with the same thing.
My view -> in practice the nose gets hit so often that simply adding more layers _is_ a viable solution. And this technique one of the easiest repair tasks that can be done at home (unless you want a perfect repair).
You do need to sand off all of the paint in that area - dont even try to do a cover-job.
Sand back the outer layer of cloth. If the crack is wide/deep you will need to sand through those layers until you hit the first layer of foam. You dont need to sand through the foam. If the foam is heavily cracked, make up some extra filler to fill the cracks. Make sure to sand out some "fairing" too.
... then follow the various examples.
^^^ spot on. get the paint off then give it about 5 layers of the 100gsm.
post pics of the screws on your profile then let us know. All different kinds = different fix but is not going to be easy probably
Starboard's slot box build if on par with the rest of their construction; i.e. not good.
Fix is to tape off the inside of the box and fill the screw holes with a glass/epoxy mix. When cured, redrill and tap to use a proper stainless grub screw.
I meant a pic with screw
It's the very coarse self tapper with a large head? Not the M5 bolt style into a brass threaded inset?
if so it easier than JD said and there is no thread tap for it and converting as he suggests is possible but not so easy unless ur a real tools guy.?
and need to know how loose - could you pull it out without turning (if you could grab it) or is there some thread engagement?
photos.app.goo.gl/mnVMNRpjmr1QxgkK8
They are a self-tapper style screw with a big head on them but really short
Sorry, struggling to upload the picture. The screws wind in but they don't nip up. They're just spinning but they don't fall out
Above is the screws I finally uploaded a pic
I was sanding down the nose after I put some filler in the cracks and a massive section of the skin came off. It was loose with a crack in it, do I need to glass over the big hole or will just epoxy mixed with a cell paste over it
For the screws, as others have said drill out a little over size (1 mm bigger than the od of the thread) and tape seal the box side/lower end of hole, best thing to fill with is spa bond 400. Super strong and a microscopic level of flex so it will not crack. Then re tap. Technique used on race boats etc for deck mounted fittings.
gurit-resins.com/spabond-adhesives/
Difficult to see from the picture, but if the areas you highlighted are also cracked, then yes, will need fiberglass. Or if you think it's now too thin after sanding, also yes. Epoxy provides little strength on its own without the embedded glass. Certainly can't hurt...you'll be sanding everything beautifully smooth to like new anyway!
Def in the top part of number one, you can see the crack from your sanded area to the tip of the board
number 2 not really as you can see the glass coming up from the bottom lap so there's plenty there .. But all the factory glass you left there, down low under the rail apex, is what you're going to work to so it fairs out nice.
thus, put about 3x on your sanded bit, another piece over the crack I mentioned, then one over the whole lot about 15cm wide and draped down to the bottom
Select to expand quoteonshoreroy said..
Above is the screws I finally uploaded a pic
I was sanding down the nose after I put some filler in the cracks and a massive section of the skin came off. It was loose with a crack in it, do I need to glass over the big hole or will just epoxy mixed with a cell paste over it
Ive had the heads sheer off on those half way down the head almost like they were stuck on.Rubbish really have not bothered to try get fins out yet..
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Def in the top part of number one, you can see the crack from your sanded area to the tip of the board
number 2 not really as you can see the glass coming up from the bottom lap so there's plenty there .. But all the factory glass you left there, down low under the rail apex, is what you're going to work to so it fairs out nice.
thus, put about 3x on your sanded bit, another piece over the crack I mentioned, then one over the whole lot about 15cm wide and draped down to the bottom
Sorry , where is the crack , I am looking at the board and I can't see , apologies this is the first time doing this
Sorry wrong word. Sanding shows up low points. I mean the white stripe running kinda up towards 1o'clock from the sanded area, it's a crease caused by big flex. Ideally needs attention too
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Sorry wrong word. Sanding shows up low points. I mean the white stripe running kinda up towards 1o'clock from the sanded area, it's a crease caused by big flex. Ideally needs attention too
Mark, do you ever use peel ply or a plastic film over repairs to reduce sanding?
Saran wrap for the curves. Just watch out so it doesn't get wrinkled and stuck in the epoxy
Select to expand quoteI need to order more resin to repair the tail. I have been using West Coast Systems, but the good supplier does list it. Which one of these should I be using?
www.easycomposites.co.uk/epoxy-resin
