Few days ago I was asking about high wind foil boards, I have been foilng on my Wizard 125 for a long time and I was looking for something smaller. Yesterday in Tarifa(Spain) I found a Wizard 103 (2020) it was a second hand board and the price was a bargain, so I bought it.
any feed back from this board???
Never ridden one. You might be telling us about it 
Is the foil to tuttle distance different compared to the wizard 125?
I've ridden one for about 3 years. It's a fun board and I've been out in some great conditions with a 3.0 sail.
Uphauling requires a change of technique because there's hardly any nose volume but it's not difficult with sails of 5m or less. I have sailed it with up to 7m but the uphauling becomes almost impossible if the wind drops below about 5 knots with a big rig. It turns up into wind before I can get power in the sail.
Having almost no nose gives a better view of the chop ahead mid gybe and makes nose damage less likely during catapults. I also got tracks added to mine.
The downsides are that it's difficult to uphaul in really light winds and chop. Also, now I'm into winging I'd like to try a windfoil board with inboard front straps and centre rear strap.
Select to expand quotethedoor said..
Never ridden one. You might be telling us about it
Is the foil to tuttle distance different compared to the wizard 125?
Not sure but seems to be pretty similar to the 125 but smaller, since I bougth it the wind was very light, still waiting for the right conditions
Nice boards! I am still obsessed with my 125L Wizard, yesterday I was out ripping around on it with a Flyer 8.2, funny because when it first came out I think the biggest sail in the recommended range was a 6.3 or something like that. My local shaper added tracks slightly forwards of the Tuttle box for winging. Now I wish they were beside it like the pic above as I now wing on a much smaller board and would like the tracks for plate-based windfoil foils. I have been in to windsurfing since the late 80s and have had some pretty damn good boards, but none have had the versatility or lasting appeal of my Wizard. I'm curious to try a 105 at some point, unfortunately it's just not a size that works on a regular basis with my needs.
Those tracks look awesome simon. I would a board with tracks further forward than my V1 freestyle. Maybe I should just pay to have someone put longer ones in.
Select to expand quotethedoor said..
Those tracks look awesome simon. I would a board with tracks further forward than my V1 freestyle. Maybe I should just pay to have someone put longer ones in.
You can now get 16" foil tracks from Chinook!
chinooksailing.com/products/foil-box
Select to expand quotesimonp65 said..thedoor said..
Those tracks look awesome simon. I would a board with tracks further forward than my V1 freestyle. Maybe I should just pay to have someone put longer ones in.
You can now get 16" foil tracks from Chinook!
chinooksailing.com/products/foil-box
Sweet, was wondering if I should just add small additional tracks in front of the old tracks should give me much more travel
Also been wondering about trying to get one of these into the US
www.mb-boards.com/e/products/windsurf-new-school-windsurfing/basilisk-sup-foil-wing.asp
Curious, what do you find in design so appealing to elevate basilisk 125 as a dream board?
Select to expand quotemiamiwindsurfe said..
Curious, what do you find in design so appealing to elevate basilisk 125 as a dream board?
For me its the forward tracks and the option of using it for fin
Select to expand quoteGrantmac said..
Because I can use it for both lighter wind wingfoiling, SUP and WindSUP.
Jack of trades but master of none... Does describe a dream board but people have different goals
Select to expand quotemiamiwindsurfe said..Grantmac said..
Because I can use it for both lighter wind wingfoiling, SUP and WindSUP.
Jack of trades but master of none... Does describe a dream board but people have different goals
I don't have a huge vehicle. Also my local wave spot is a long drive and hard to predict. So having a fairly universal option is good.
Currently using a 4-in-1 Hypernut and it's okay, could use some more volume and less weight.
I've only used mine 3 times (due to injury) so my opinion is fairly limited but I love the board. The visual/feel aspect on the water is awesome (there is no nose in your peripheral vision). Very agile as you would expect, even more so than the already small board I ride (Naish Micro). I use mine with the Fanatic Flow 1250 front wing, super flowy and fun.
You have to get good at gybes as tacking (nearly impossible) , water starts (very hard) and uphauling (gotta learn the mast parallel with board technique) are a real challenge. It feels like a board I will "grow" into next summer, can't wait.
Select to expand quotealbertem said..
Few days ago I was asking about high wind foil boards, I have been foilng on my Wizard 125 for a long time and I was looking for something smaller. Yesterday in Tarifa(Spain) I found a Wizard 103 (2020) it was a second hand board and the price was a bargain, so I bought it.
any feed back from this board???
The Tuttle holes on the 103 may be drilled out to M10. If you have a foil with smaller bolts, they will abrade the holes. I had an aluminium plate put in mine to use with M6 bolts.
Select to expand quoteAnt-man said..
I've only used mine 3 times (due to injury) so my opinion is fairly limited but I love the board. The visual/feel aspect on the water is awesome (there is no nose in your peripheral vision). Very agile as you would expect, even more so than the already small board I ride (Naish Micro). I use mine with the Fanatic Flow 1250 front wing, super flowy and fun.
You have to get good at gybes as tacking (nearly impossible) , water starts (very hard) and uphauling (gotta learn the mast parallel with board technique) are a real challenge. It feels like a board I will "grow" into next summer, can't wait.
I never tried to tack mine, but everything else was doable (90% of the time I used it with a 4.0). Just remember to keep your weight back and ease off the mast foot pressure when water starting. I do think that all the extra width is unnecessary. I think it would've benefited with a bit more volume and length ahead of the mast foot instead.
Select to expand quoteFaff said..
The Tuttle holes on the 103 may be drilled out to M10. If you have a foil with smaller bolts, they will abrade the holes. I had an aluminium plate put in mine to use with M6 bolts.
I used two penny stainless washers (about 25mm diameter) on each M6 bolt when I was using the tuttle box. That worked fine with the larger holes in the Wizard 103
Select to expand quotesimonp65 said..Faff said..
The Tuttle holes on the 103 may be drilled out to M10. If you have a foil with smaller bolts, they will abrade the holes. I had an aluminium plate put in mine to use with M6 bolts.
I used two penny stainless washers (about 25mm diameter) on each M6 bolt when I was using the tuttle box. That worked fine with the larger holes in the Wizard 103
Were yours drilled out to M10? I used mudguard washers with M6 bolts. The washers ended up bending and eroding the holes.
Select to expand quoteI never tried to tack mine, but everything else was doable (90% of the time I used it with a 4.0). Just remember to keep your weight back and ease off the mast foot pressure when water starting. I do think that all the extra width is unnecessary. I think it would've benefited with a bit more volume and length ahead of the mast foot instead.
Agreed, I think it would be easier to waterstart and uphaul with a bit less volume in the tail and a bit more around the mast foot. However, it does mean that you can get into both foot straps before your start pumping the sail.
Instead of tacking in a tight spot, I just head up into wind as far as possible on the foil then set it down on the water and do a slam gybe. You hardly lose any ground downwind doing that.
Select to expand quotesimonp65 said..I never tried to tack mine, but everything else was doable (90% of the time I used it with a 4.0). Just remember to keep your weight back and ease off the mast foot pressure when water starting. I do think that all the extra width is unnecessary. I think it would've benefited with a bit more volume and length ahead of the mast foot instead.
Agreed, I think it would be easier to waterstart and uphaul with a bit less volume in the tail and a bit more around the mast foot. However, it does mean that you can get into both foot straps before your start pumping the sail.
Instead of tacking in a tight spot, I just head up into wind as far as possible on the foil then set it down on the water and do a slam gybe. You hardly lose any ground downwind doing that.
This is hypothetical, as I have no experience with other dedicated windfoil boards, but I always felt that a bit more length would give better glide and make it easier to get on the foil. Also the footstraps are very inboard, so all the width is kind of wasted. The deck does make it feel very stable and cruisy once up though.
Select to expand quote
Were yours drilled out to M10? I used mudguard washers with M6 bolts. The washers ended up bending and eroding the holes.
The holes can take M10 from new on the Wizard 103 because the standard tuttle bolts for the Infinity Tuttle head are M10.
The washers I used did bend until I started using two under each bolt head. These are the ones I used:
www.accu.co.uk/flat-washers/14690-HYW-M6-25-A4
Select to expand quoteFaff said..simonp65 said..I never tried to tack mine, but everything else was doable (90% of the time I used it with a 4.0). Just remember to keep your weight back and ease off the mast foot pressure when water starting. I do think that all the extra width is unnecessary. I think it would've benefited with a bit more volume and length ahead of the mast foot instead.
Agreed, I think it would be easier to waterstart and uphaul with a bit less volume in the tail and a bit more around the mast foot. However, it does mean that you can get into both foot straps before your start pumping the sail.
Instead of tacking in a tight spot, I just head up into wind as far as possible on the foil then set it down on the water and do a slam gybe. You hardly lose any ground downwind doing that.
This is hypothetical, as I have no experience with other dedicated windfoil boards, but I always felt that a bit more length would give better glide and make it easier to get on the foil. Also the footstraps are very inboard, so all the width is kind of wasted. The deck does make it feel very stable and cruisy once up though.
At same volume I think width is prob more important in getting on foil than length. But those kalama go foil guys are riding pencils
Select to expand quotesimonp65 said..I never tried to tack mine, but everything else was doable (90% of the time I used it with a 4.0). Just remember to keep your weight back and ease off the mast foot pressure when water starting. I do think that all the extra width is unnecessary. I think it would've benefited with a bit more volume and length ahead of the mast foot instead.
Agreed, I think it would be easier to waterstart and uphaul with a bit less volume in the tail and a bit more around the mast foot. However, it does mean that you can get into both foot straps before your start pumping the sail.
Instead of tacking in a tight spot, I just head up into wind as far as possible on the foil then set it down on the water and do a slam gybe. You hardly lose any ground downwind doing that.
Love what you've done with the tracks, taking that board to the next level!! Chinook is on a winner with 16 inch tracks
I'm intrigued by your slam gybe comment. I know from your past photos you've got a high level of skill, why not just "slam gybe" on the foil?
Select to expand quote2keen said..
Love what you've done with the tracks, taking that board to the next level!! Chinook is on a winner with 16 inch tracks
I'm intrigued by your slam gybe comment. I know from your past photos you've got a high level of skill, why not just "slam gybe" on the foil?
I've tried them on the foil by throwing the rig forwards and spinning the board in the yaw axis, but I've never managed to stay on without losing a few feet downwind. I guess if I could heli-tack reliably that would be the best option.
Select to expand quotesimonp65 said..2keen said..
Love what you've done with the tracks, taking that board to the next level!! Chinook is on a winner with 16 inch tracks
I'm intrigued by your slam gybe comment. I know from your past photos you've got a high level of skill, why not just "slam gybe" on the foil?
I've tried them on the foil by throwing the rig forwards and spinning the board in the yaw axis, but I've never managed to stay on without losing a few feet downwind. I guess if I could heli-tack reliably that would be the best option.
I'd rather "loose a few feet downwind" than come off the foil
Spin around then hook upwind. Gotta love the angles we can get on the foil
