G'day
Being a regular Moses/sab foil user I was quite interested when I heard about the Kraken system.
Even more with the black kraken offer (you returned your regular mast and could purchase kraken gear at 40%)
So I jumped in and returned my carbon mast, sold the rest of the bits and pieces and got myself :
93 kraken mast
2 quick release systems
2 kraken tuttle heads
two kraken fuselages
stainless washers/shims/sacrificial anodes
and a tee shirt ! 
All that only took a week to get from Italy to New Cal, it arrived VERY WELL packed, (the mast and fuselage come with airex type protection)
Plenty of paper instructions, and a QR code to access the set up video
the tuttle part that stays in the board has a standard 1? rake
fitted everything with white lithium grease (they sell it too), real nice flush fit !
it's sooo easy, a kid could do it.
^the quick release pin
^flush connection
Sorry some photos are not where I wanted them to be !!! 
Select to expand quoteseanhogan said..
Sorry some photos are not where I wanted them to be !!!
Cheers, nice stuff!! Interesting that they have gone for the nice big REPLACEABLE Brass Barrel Nuts on the Fuse-Joint end of the new Kraken Setup (vs the fixed inserts from the older setup... see my thread on this www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Foiling/Replace-SABfoil-M92-Fixed-Twin-Track-Mast-Inserts-connecting-to-Fuse-#2792603)
k.
Nice to see that it's going on with the delivery. SAB asked me two days ago for pictures from the mast with serial number. Thanks for the user guide, it's not online until now.
Do you only use the mast with dt adaptor? I ordered the dt and a carbon plate. The anode has to be removed for the plate but must be there for the aluminum dt. For me the anode should be mounted to the alu adaptors itself and not to the mast.
The biggest improvement in my eyes is the mast/fuse connecion. With the old conical one the front screw always losen itself.
Select to expand quotePatK said..
Do you only use the mast with dt adaptor? I ordered the dt and a carbon plate. The anode has to be removed for the plate but must be there for the aluminum dt. For me the anode should be mounted to the alu adaptors itself and not to the mast.
The biggest improvement in my eyes is the mast/fuse connecion. With the old conical one the front screw always losen itself.
Yes I only windfoil and only with the DT
Sean, I wave wind foil and am keen on the Balz 799 but am put off by the complication of the Kraken system. What is the advantage of the Kraken if you only have one foil board.
G'day John,
The main reason I love it is the hassle free rigging foil to board.
Takes me 10 seconds max, the rake setting is always correct and I don't spend ten minutes wiggling/forcing the bloddy foil into the board only to find a shim has moved or fallen out !
I get to the beach, put my board on the grass, grab the foil from the van, slide it into the adaptor, insert the conical pin, give it 3 turns and voila ! all set !
I agree it is a real bonus if you have more than one board, then it's jackpot, have one tuttle (or plate) on each board and switch from one to another in seconds.
Other benefit is the kraken mast is stiffer albeit being narrower (supposedly faster but I'm yet to see that)
Sacrificial anodes on mast and fuselage also a good point.
The quick release is optional so you can also use it like a regular foil, but for an extra 80$ totally worth it !
Hi Sean, how did you go with gst coming into Oz? I know the seller (sabfoil) is obliged to collect it but I doubt if they do.
G'day,
lucky me I live in new Caledonia, so can't really help.
And for once that really helped with customs; as we are part of CEE : no import taxes !!!!!
Hey Sean great write up
Any thoughts on overall weight vs the old masts?
Or the ability to Shape/Sand the DT head to fit the DT box.
Also I have read some comments on the kraken system having some "play" hence increasing the deflection. What have you experienced?
Thanks and have fun foiling
g'day Hess
mast feels lighter, but not surprising as it doesn't have a tuttle on it
definitely feels stiffer while foiling (only one session with it yet though)
the DT adapter is anodized aluminium, I wouldn't be keen to sand it.
it fitted perfectly in my starboard freeride 150
not too sure how it could have play, if you fit the correct amount of washers it is a very tight fitting.
and the conical pin generates horizontal and vertical force to the mast (got that from the manual
)
will report after a few more sessions, but one thing's for sure, fitting and removing the foil in a few seconds is pure bliss !!!
Select to expand quoteseanhogan said..
g'day Hess
mast feels lighter, but not surprising as it doesn't have a tuttle on it
definitely feels stiffer while foiling (only one session with it yet though)
the DT adapter is anodized aluminium, I wouldn't be keen to sand it.
it fitted perfectly in my starboard freeride 150
not too sure how it could have play, if you fit the correct amount of washers it is a very tight fitting.
and the conical pin generates horizontal and vertical force to the mast (got that from the manual)
will report after a few more sessions, but one thing's for sure, fitting and removing the foil in a few seconds is pure bliss !!!
Hey just a couple more dumb questions
Is the sacrificial anode attached to the aluminum tuttle head that remains in the board? The reason I ask is I figure the tuttle box will likely retain some water between sessions when the mast is off
When I ask about the weight difference between the old mast and the Kraken I was wondering about the total weight, including the Kraken head, of both
Thanks
There is one anode direct screwed to the fuse and another to the (carbon) mast. Anode element is zinc. As i learned yesterday in a german surf forum zinc is nobler than aluminum. It should be magnesium and not zinc to protect aluminum in theory.
My scale says the new kraken 93 mast with dt head and qr screw is 2322gr, thats 106 heavier than the old 95 mast.
Select to expand quotePatK said..
There is one anode direct screwed to the fuse and another to the (carbon) mast. Anode element is zinc. As i learned yesterday in a german surf forum zinc is nobler than aluminum. It should be magnesium and not zinc to protect aluminum in theory.
My scale says the new kraken 93 mast with dt head and qr screw is 2322gr, thats 106 heavier than the old 95 mast.
Hmmm, so there is no savings in weight but I believe the profile of the 93 is thinner as well as being stiffer.
If I am reading the above diagram correctly it looks like the anode is attached to the Stainless Steel bar that contacts the Kraken pin and hence the aluminum tuttle head when the mast is installed.
However I would likely not take the tuttle head out of the board each time and my experience with Deep Tuttle heads is when I loosen the bolt water usually comes out. Given the hollow Kraken DT I am thinking salt water is going to stay in the box for some time and without the mast on will not have the protection of the anode. Hence with several dissimilar metals in contact I am wondering how long before things go bad.
The new fuse F903K is 1190gr and has some recesses, for example under the frontwing saddle.
The older fuse F900HS with 8mm frontwing thread is 1240gr.
The very old fuse F900 with 6mm thread is 1100gr.
You should only use magnesium anodes to protect aluminium in fresh water, never use magnesium anodes on aluminium in salt water, use zinc.
Select to expand quotemr love said..
You should only use magnesium anodes to protect aluminium in fresh water, never use magnesium anodes on aluminium in salt water, use zinc.
Could you explain that?
I found an explanation that magnesium is quite expensive and doesn't resist's long. But that is no argument for a small foil.
I don't know the aluminum alloy type SAB is using. I only know that zinc is more noble than aluminum and magnesium is less noble than aluminum. This makes MG the better anode for aluminum protection.
Select to expand quoteseanhogan said..
g'day Hess
mast feels lighter, but not surprising as it doesn't have a tuttle on it
definitely feels stiffer while foiling (only one session with it yet though)
the DT adapter is anodized aluminium, I wouldn't be keen to sand it.
it fitted perfectly in my starboard freeride 150
not too sure how it could have play, if you fit the correct amount of washers it is a very tight fitting.
and the conical pin generates horizontal and vertical force to the mast (got that from the manual)
will report after a few more sessions, but one thing's for sure, fitting and removing the foil in a few seconds is pure bliss !!!
Hope you are having a great day Sean
So my perception that the Kraken Deep Tuttle head lost the protection of the anode when the mast was removed seemed so stupid I had to contact SAB and ask.
SAB confirmed that once the mast was removed there was no longer protection from the sacrificial anode. So to avoid corrosion the DT head should be removed from the board and rinsed with fresh water after every use.
The thing is I find that the Tuttle mast/fin is no big deal to install. Maybe because I have used it for so long. Not as fast as the one bolt Kraken for sure, but still no more than a couple minutes.
If you have a board like the Severne Predator with one rear strap covering the screws you would be glad to leave the tuttle head in the board.
Select to expand quotePatK said..mr love said..
You should only use magnesium anodes to protect aluminium in fresh water, never use magnesium anodes on aluminium in salt water, use zinc.
Could you explain that?
I found an explanation that magnesium is quite expensive and doesn't resist's long. But that is no argument for a small foil.
I don't know the aluminum alloy type SAB is using. I only know that zinc is more noble than aluminum and magnesium is less noble than aluminum. This makes MG the better anode for aluminum protection.
No expert....just went to the websites of companies that sell anodes and more than one company said it....I believe that magnesium is too active for a salt water environment. Magnesium however is best in freshwater.
Someone in a german forum asked SAB and they said the same like you. So we hope that it works
Select to expand quotePatK said..
Someone in a german forum asked SAB and they said the same like you. So we hope that it works
IMHO I believe SAB does not get much "Pro" Windfoiling feedback from deep Tuttle users. As the Kraken system seems much more suited to plate users. As using the quick disconnect, then rinsing the plate while still on the board is simple. However having to remove the deep tuttle after every session would defeat the reason of the quick release for me.
Further from what I hear from the DT windfoil racers they tell me they would rather have the full carbon DT mast than the Kraken system with all the parts and pieces including the aluminum head.
Given I am more of a free ride want to be wave windfoiler I could move to a plate system which would provide additional flexibility but the ones I have tried don't seem to have as positive contention to the foil. The plates just feel sloppy when I lean on it. Probably more me problem than the equipment.
As a SABfoil user, I'm not interested in Kraken. As mentioned above, too many parts and pieces for one whole convenient minute of faster rigging.
I don't mind assembling a full carbon solid DT head into the board every time I foil. Better structure, better stiffness, better peace of mind.
to answer the topic of oxydation if leaving the tuttle head inserted, here's mine after being left in the board since january 5th and being used approx 15 times on the water, mast removed after each session and tuttle hosed down :
the brown/white stuff is the white lithium sold by sab, I smeared it generously before installing, not touched since
bolts are greased and wrapped in teflon tape before inserting
