Retrofitting 1999 cource race board into a great freeride foil board for swell riding

I have a 1999 F2 CR XL board which I think could be rebuild to become a very nice freeride foil board. The original board is 280 long, 72,5 cm wide and 173 liters of volume. It is thick with volume in the back and boxy rails. My design goal is to make this into a great board for riding swells and general free-foiling.

My plan is to cut the board 45 cm from the tail and 20 cm from the nose. This will leave the board with a length of 215 cm and a volume of around 145 l. After these modifications the board will have around 25 cm of flat rocker in the back leading into a nose scoop of around 20 cm which is similar to the scoop on my large slalom board. I might also make some cut-outs in the tail area while I am at it.

I intent to re-use the tuttle box from the cut-off tail piece after re-inforcing it. I will use new foot strap inserts and place these so that I both have inboard and outboard strap placement options. Not too worried about these parts. But I also need to reposition the mast track and would like to reuse the mast track which is already in the board. Here my concern is how I get the mast track out of the board without destroying too much of the board or mast track? Advice on this would be very welcome!

I will post a few pictures of the project once I find out how to do that in this forum (when I try the fotos are turned 90 degrees for some reason)

As said, after you remove the deck, just rout or hacksaw the 2 sides, then front and back, place a fin in the box..with screw and plate...and rip it out with leverage and force. It's only styrofoam you are tearing.
2 part expanding foam is used to fill big voids.

Great advice - thanks!

Will save the idea about dual tracks for later. For now my focus is on keeping costs down by reusing existing components. And my foil mast is with tuttle head.

Below a photo of the "old lady" and a quick sketch of the intended makeover (original in red, new in blue).

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Grantmac said..
I'd just chop the nose and move the mast track back, otherwise ride it as is.

I considered that too. Problem is the rockerline is very flat in the back and middle of the board. Could not get it shorter than 245 cm or so by only cutting the nose while keeping a decent amount of nose rocker (20 cm). Another positive effect of cutting the tail is that the board will be wider in the new tail for more leverage going upwind.

I have also tried foiling on the board as it is and it actually works fine. Very easy touchdowns and rebounds with the long curvy nose. But I just want to see if I give the board a new life with a more nimble feeling and dedicated foil shape. Besides, it's just a fun project for me to do something windsurfing/foil related at times when conditions or time constrains prevent me from being on the water. And then go try if the modifications work as planned.

Rebuild moving forward. Board shortened at both ends (now 213 cm). Old tuttle box reinforced and reinstalled. Mast Track moved. New two step cut-outs. Lamination reinforcement and new foot strap inserts coming up next.

Thanks Sandman.

My next consideration is where to place the plugs for the foot straps on the retrofitted board.

I have installed the mast track so that I have adjustment range between 97 and 114 cm from the front tuttle bolt.

With my current setup (Fanatic Falcon 136 slalom board and F4 Freeride foil) I run the mast track at 108 cm from front tuttle bolt, front straps in the front holes, strapless in the back and boom at neck height. Usually with 6-7 m2 sails. I tend to have my back foot in front of the tuttle box most of the time, and only further back (front tuttle bolt) going upwind moderately powered.

Is there a universal best placement for footstraps or is it foil/board/sail/rider specific?
What do I gain and loose by placing the front foot straps more inboard than for (slalom style) fin sailing?

Nice vacuum pump, mine is the same. Have you had to add mineral oil to it yet ? i wish I could help you with the foot strap placement but there are too many variables. With my foil boards I just put in inside and outside 5 hole inserts and that way you can play with your set up if you change foils or stabs. Good luck with your project the bottom looks great.

The vacuum pump is a freon compressor from an old refrigerator. It needs a bit of oil for maintenance. It's called "the cheap little sucker"

I will make both inside and outside strap options as suggested.

Getting closer..next step will be grinding and preparations for paint job. Which paint types are best?
Hope to have it ready for the Christmas days.

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Watatait said..
Paint job done with a primer, acrylic car paint and a 2K acrylic clear coat. Next phase will be deck pads followed by a non-skid coating made with epoxy and acrylic pearls.

Epic