Hey Dave, I got Adam (Man Over Board 0415271184) to do mine, took awhile but he did a magic job. My deep tuttle wasn't deep enough, Adam sorted that and reinforced it.
Cheers Bob
Hi Dave, if you are going to get a foil with a flange/power plate don't get too hung up on the need for a propper foil box. There are plenty of people using regular boards with no problems.
Mine only broke when I used a foil without a flange. After a diy repair job and filling the cavity under the foil mast head with resin it is still going strong.
Give it a go, if it doesnt break you've saved some cash, if it does it wont cost you any more than you were going to spend anyway.![]()
Hey Dave, I got Adam (Man Over Board 0415271184) to do mine, took awhile but he did a magic job. My deep tuttle wasn't deep enough, Adam sorted that and reinforced it.
Cheers Bob
ThaNks Firie. I will discuss with him shortly.
Hi Dave, if you are going to get a foil with a flange/power plate don't get too hung up on the need for a propper foil box. There are plenty of people using regular boards with no problems.
Mine only broke when I used a foil without a flange. After a diy repair job and filling the cavity under the foil mast head with resin it is still going strong.
Give it a go, if it doesnt break you've saved some cash, if it does it wont cost you any more than you were going to spend anyway.![]()
Thanks Rog. We have some doner boards here that don't have deep boxes hence they need to be replaced.
So still after boxes. Might DIY
dave
deep tuttle not needed for slingshots system or a foil box as they have a plate to spread the load.
Rat, for a standard tuttle box (my Futura) I don't think Slingshot provides a bolt on solution?
I think I still need to buy some sort of adapter like the Chinook Powerplate? (speaking from ignorance - I'm confused!)
yeah
just checked and looks like the slingshot base is maybe 4/5 mm deeper than a standard tuttle.
welcome to try my foil in your board to see how it goes though.
Rat, for a standard tuttle box (my Futura) I don't think Slingshot provides a bolt on solution?
I think I still need to buy some sort of adapter like the Chinook Powerplate? (speaking from ignorance - I'm confused!)
Correct, if you have a regular non-deep Tuttle box you will need a Power Plate. I had this setup on a 122L Starboard Go, it worked well.
Yes, the Power Plate has the choice of deep tuttle, regular tuttle, or powerbox top fittings. If you have not see one, the Power Plate offers a whopping 60 square inches of load spreading (12" x 5"). You can adjust the position of the mast fore and aft to get things in balance. Many boards have the finbox too far aft to get good balance. The Power Plate is a good solution to that problem.
Alas, however, the Power Plate adapts only to the Slingshot mast, unless they decide to add other mast shapes.
The power plate looks like a great solution. Cheaper than having a reinforced foil box installed by a lot!!
Anyone using one? Bit of feed back would be great. Cheers


Pix are a bit hard to decipher if you don't know what they are.
The green stuff is foam foam to go between board & plate. Second pix shows the bottom with bolts for attaching the foil
I think that will be the simplest solution for me Dave. I also wonder how hard would it be to replicate with a donor fin and some 5mm ally plate?
I think that will be the simplest solution for me Dave. I also wonder how hard would it be to replicate with a donor fin and some 5mm ally plate?
An aliminium donor fin. I wonder who might have one? Cut and weld, simples.![]()
I think that will be the simplest solution for me Dave. I also wonder how hard would it be to replicate with a donor fin and some 5mm ally plate?
An aliminium donor fin. I wonder who might have one? Cut and weld, simples.![]()
Yeah, that would be the best solution Roger. I was thinking you could also use a conventional fin head (I have one), drill
it right through, then run countersunk bolts from the bottom upwards. Then after reinforcing the "wells", I would shape a couple of blocks of plastic to fit, insert barrel nuts and Bobs your uncle. What do you reckon?
The power plate looks like a great solution. Cheaper than having a reinforced foil box installed by a lot!!
Anyone using one? Bit of feed back would be great.
We got one with our Infinity 76, and used it a few times with boards that have a power box without problems. Make sure to use a safety line from mast to footstraps, though - one screw gets ripped out much more easily than two, and the reinforcement on top of the power box seems much weaker than the laminate on top of a deep tuttle.
One thing to watch out for is that the hole patterns have changed from 2018 to 2019. The 2018 Power Plate does not work with 2019 foils without adding holes. The 2019 plate has holes in varying distances to work with other foils. Check the Chinook web site for pictures.
We got the Power Plate since we considered using a couple of old freestyle boards for foiling. Seems the narrower boards are a bit harder to foil, but it's doable. We'll re-evaluate after a getting more experience with wider boards first, perhaps until we got the foil jibe down. We then may decide to replace the power box with a foil ready box to make carrying things easier. The foil box might also have a few advantages once we start jumping the foil (which will be a while .. at least the voluntary jumps).
The power plate looks like a great solution. Cheaper than having a reinforced foil box installed by a lot!!
Anyone using one? Bit of feed back would be great.
We got one with our Infinity 76, and used it a few times with boards that have a power box without problems. Make sure to use a safety line from mast to footstraps, though - one screw gets ripped out much more easily than two, and the reinforcement on top of the power box seems much weaker than the laminate on top of a deep tuttle.
One thing to watch out for is that the hole patterns have changed from 2018 to 2019. The 2018 Power Plate does not work with 2019 foils without adding holes. The 2019 plate has holes in varying distances to work with other foils. Check the Chinook web site for pictures.
We got the Power Plate since we considered using a couple of old freestyle boards for foiling. Seems the narrower boards are a bit harder to foil, but it's doable. We'll re-evaluate after a getting more experience with wider boards first, perhaps until we got the foil jibe down. We then may decide to replace the power box with a foil ready box to make carrying things easier. The foil box might also have a few advantages once we start jumping the foil (which will be a while .. at least the voluntary jumps).
Cheers for the feed back.
The power plate looks like a great solution. Cheaper than having a reinforced foil box installed by a lot!!
Anyone using one? Bit of feed back would be great. Cheers


Pix are a bit hard to decipher if you don't know what they are.
The green stuff is foam foam to go between board & plate. Second pix shows the bottom with bolts for attaching the foil
Powerplate works really well as long as you're not hypersensitive to weight - it's very solid and therefore adds noticeable heftt. I use one with the Powerbox fitting for lake-foiling on a Kona CarbOne (the whole assembly is so freakin' heavy that the extant pound and a half is irrelevant), and I also have the deep Tuttle just in case for my formula hull, although as others have pointed out it's not really necessary given the big flange on the SS Tuttle head. D make sure you get the current plat which has more holes to accommodate various pedestal bore spacings.
I use a Power Plate on and old formula board that has the stock finbox too far aft for most foils. 12" x 5" gives 60 sq in of cantilevering load spread on the bottom of the board. Mine is deep tuttle, but you can also get regular tuttle or powerbox top fittings. Besides spreading the loads, they also provide excellent adjustment fore and aft on the foil to get it to a balance point. For mine, I set the foil 3" further forward from the stock finbox position. Perfect balance.
It is easy to use a leash since you can easily tie some kite line between an unused hole on the plate and a rear footstrap. I use coated kite line that does no fray with multiple tyings.