unfortunately the foil mast power box adaptor bolt is too big to get through the power box bolt hole ?



Is this a sign to not foil with this board ?
You can.....drill hole bigger...
You can get a foil board.
If you choose to drill, know every PB foil uses bigger bolts, so all boards need the bigger hole.
OTOH, best if you are mid to lightweight using one screw to hold everything together.
I have the same board, but use a Naish foil board for foiling.
4 of my buds use JP freestyle, or Fanatic Freewave 85 liter boards for all their foiling.
You can.....drill hole bigger...
You can get a foil board.
If you choose to drill, know every PB foil uses bigger bolts, so all boards need the bigger hole.
OTOH, best if you are mid to lightweight using one screw to hold everything together.
I have the same board, but use a Naish foil board for foiling.
4 of my buds use JP freestyle, or Fanatic Freewave 85 liter boards for all their foiling.
Yeah, Ive got a foil board Lee...I'm asking about this board.
Is it standard practice to make the hole bigger whenever you use a foil with the powerbox system ?
Could this board suffer major damage buy using it to foil ? any first hand accounts.
Cheers
Yes M8 vs M6, the instructions for the foil ready PB boards do say you need to drill the hole out.
But I doubt that board will fare well ...... its a standard PB install
Yes M8 vs M6, the instructions for the foil ready PB boards do say you need to drill the hole out.
But I doubt that board will fare well ...... its a standard PB install
This^^^
If you really want to try, remove the rubber washer and replace it with two or three stainless steel ones and a non compressible plastic one (taking into account that the rubber one would normally compress a bit when deciding how many). The rubber washer will allow movement, which you don't want on a foil.
they also add a flange to spread the load on the PB adapter, which helps, but still, I wouldn't trust it. It's a lot of weight on a single bolt, and the small surface area the bolt/washers seat on.
So basically, you can use the MR 118 if you drill the hole bigger and you're mid to lightweight.
Be sure to have the flange and a safety leash.
Or just use your foil board, of course.
Yes M8 vs M6, the instructions for the foil ready PB boards do say you need to drill the hole out.
But I doubt that board will fare well ...... its a standard PB install
This^^^
If you really want to try, remove the rubber washer and replace it with two or three stainless steel ones and a non compressible plastic one (taking into account that the rubber one would normally compress a bit when deciding how many). The rubber washer will allow movement, which you don't want on a foil.
they also add a flange to spread the load on the PB adapter, which helps, but still, I wouldn't trust it. It's a lot of weight on a single bolt, and the small surface area the bolt/washers seat on.
Thanks Subsonic....Yeah Ive already noticed movement in the tuttle to foil connection I have. I will use stainless washers inplace of rubber.
Yes M8 vs M6, the instructions for the foil ready PB boards do say you need to drill the hole out.
But I doubt that board will fare well ...... its a standard PB install
Cheers Mark..Ledge
It is common thing to drill out a JP board for NP Glide M8 Powerbox foil bolt, my New Neil Pryde powerbox head came with the Neil Pryde hand drill tool to open hole to correct size, be sure to use supplied Neil Pryde M8 Torx Titanium Bolt (this NP supplied M8 bolt is super high grade and made to take the load). To secure Powerbox in board, also as others said do not use nylon washers and replace instead with largest diameter and thickness stainless steel washer you can fit

I had a MR 142, great board, when I decided to get into foiling really thought about using the Powerplate adapter, but was worried it would rip out the box and so sold the board. Year or two later talking to a guy from a company that sold the Powerplates, he said lots of guys had lost their foils using the Powerplate on a powerbox.
yes but that is on the ones that are sold as foil-ready powerbox. This is an old board. Given JP couldn't make mini tuttle boxes with a 10cm fin durable around that time, I'd have reservations hahahahaha
Bad advice to say "its common thing to drill out.,...." without adding a caveat
I think the OP should go for it though.
If you use PB with a foil fitting that has a flange, you have good spread of load on the bottom skin. I strongly recommend that you spread the load onto the top skin of the board, too. Do this with a giant home made washer. See the photo (this shows for a tuttle system; with a PB, just make one hole in the middle). This way you have spread the loads onto both the top and bottom skins of the board. This greatly reduces the chance of the box failing.
Since this "washer" is aluminum, you can bend and form it to conform with the top curvature above the PB. I also have a thin layer of rubber on the underside to preclude scratching the board.

If you use PB with a foil fitting that has a flange, you have good spread of load on the bottom skin. I strongly recommend that you spread the load onto the top skin of the board, too. Do this with a giant home made washer. See the photo (this shows for a tuttle system; with a PB, just make one hole in the middle). This way you have spread the loads onto both the top and bottom skins of the board. This greatly reduces the chance of the box failing.
Since this "washer" is aluminum, you can bend and form it to conform with the top curvature above the PB. I also have a thin layer of rubber on the underside to preclude scratching the board.
Hi
That's a great idea and looks pretty simple to make, I will get some aluminium plate etc. I have access to a fully equipped metal shop.
Cheers great information
yes but that is on the ones that are sold as foil-ready powerbox. This is an old board. Given JP couldn't make mini tuttle boxes with a 10cm fin durable around that time, I'd have reservations hahahahaha
Bad advice to say "its common thing to drill out.,...." without adding a caveat
I think the OP should go for it though.
Fair call Mark if you are saying from experience that the JP year model board being used here is deemed as having a very high fin box failure rate with short fins
Sandford HAS a foil board besides the MR 118
So the qualify I s only if the user if MR118 is a mid to lightweight rider.
And, I f course, S or M foil.
The Powerplates were not the problem, the problem was the powerbox, the PB mounting screw was being pulled through the PB. If you are going to do it it, at least use a really big washer on the deck side.