I bought a Jack Plate to connect a carbon Slingshot V2 103 W mast to a Wizard 125.
1. I see the Jack Plate is V1. Is there also a V2. I don't see anywhere a V2. So i guess / hope the Jack Plate V1 is good to connect to the carbon mast V2.
2. There are 2 tuttle connectors included.
And this is strange :
a. There is a deep connector (70 mm to 50 mm), but which is too deep to fit the box of the Wizard 125. About 1 cm smaller.
b. There is a smaller connector (50 mm to 30mm) which is smaller than the original tuttle connector on my Hover Glide aluminum mast.
So this is strange the connector is shorter than the original connector.
Why does Slingshot make a smaller and thus weaker connector than the original one ?
Is using this smaller connector strong enough (for such a long mast).
Or should I saw 1 cm of the upper part of the aluminum or the deepest connector to make it fit.
3. The connector can be put in 5 different positions on the plate.
Is it save to use all the positions, or best the middle position for best distribution of forces.
4. Same question, but for the mast that can be put in different positions on the plate.
Is it save to use all the positions, or best the normal position for best distribution of forces.
5. The included screws for the connection between the plate and the connector are about 25 mm long, but the holes and the thread inside is much longer.
Does it make sense to buy longer screws for this ?
6. I have 8 little screws for the connection between the mast and the plate.
Do I use all 8 screws ? In the outer holes ?
7. Best taping the screws and marine grease on the thread.
8. I guess / hope this middle position is about the same as the position B on the Hover Glide switch blade. I think this would make sense.
Thanks for your insights.
Guido
For 3 and 4 when I was using the jack plate I used the different positions to shift the overall foil position and then left it at my preferred setting
BUT, I was also using the 103W aluminum mast which I believe has a smaller footprint than the 103W carbon. I think some people have had trouble with the carbon not having as much flexibility on the jack plate due to it being a larger footprint. I can't remember where that conversation was though.
7 think I just used tefgel
The rest I can't remember. I set it up with one of the tuttle heads and screws and left it alone and didn't have problems other than the plate bending a bit from a couple of collisions with bottom/sea life.
I used a jack plate with a 103 w aluminium mast. Although it corroded badly, it worked well. It did not work with my 103 w carbon mast, so I installed twin tracks on my Predator. Installing the twin tracks was a pain but well worth while.
Afaik, the smaller tuttle head is for the first gen Slingshot boards which had a mid-depth "Chinook" box instead of a full depth Deep Tuttle. The deeper head should work with 95% of modern boards.
My use is extremely limited but I just positioned my mast to replicate the position of a normal tuttle head foil mast. I don't have the mast near by so can't help with much more. Used it with a 92 regular carbon mast.
Select to expand quoteaeroegnr said..
For 3 and 4 when I was using the jack plate I used the different positions to shift the overall foil position and then left it at my preferred setting
BUT, I was also using the 103W aluminum mast which I believe has a smaller footprint than the 103W carbon. I think some people have had trouble with the carbon not having as much flexibility on the jack plate due to it being a larger footprint. I can't remember where that conversation was though.
7 think I just used tefgel
The rest I can't remember. I set it up with one of the tuttle heads and screws and left it alone and didn't have problems other than the plate bending a bit from a couple of collisions with bottom/sea life.
Thanks.
For the carbon mast 103W V 2 I don't really understand because the footprint of the mast is exactly the same as the footprint of the jack plate. Is the problem the carbon foot is too rigid, too stiff for the metal jack plate ? Or I do some searching on web and Zeabreeze.
Do you also use tefgel / the white tape around the 8 small screws connecting the base of the mast with the jack plate ?
I plan to use the holes 1 and then the 3th hole from each side and each row. So 8 screws, this seems the most solid to me.
Select to expand quoteJohn340 said..
I used a jack plate with a 103 w aluminium mast. Although it corroded badly, it worked well. It did not work with my 103 w carbon mast, so I installed twin tracks on my Predator. Installing the twin tracks was a pain but well worth while.
Why did it not work with you carbon mast.
Wrong position of the holes ?
Problems with stifness or rigidity of the base of the mast ?
Is a petty such a nice board as the Predator has no double track, the future I think for fine tuning.
Select to expand quotePaducah said..
Afaik, the smaller tuttle head is for the first gen Slingshot boards which had a mid-depth "Chinook" box instead of a full depth Deep Tuttle. The deeper head should work with 95% of modern boards.
My use is extremely limited but I just positioned my mast to replicate the position of a normal tuttle head foil mast. I don't have the mast near by so can't help with much more. Used it with a 92 regular carbon mast.
This makes sence and now I understand.
I have a Wizard 125 liter not with the mid-depth tuttle box, nor the full depth deep tuttle, so a mid-mid depth tuttle box.
In that case Slingshot could have made a 3th connector for the jack plate perfectly fitting my box.
Expecting Slingshot to make adaptor pieces fitting especially their own boards, if not other boards.
Now doubting if I will saw the bigger connector to make it fit fully. Wonder if I could / would cut / saw perpendicular to the thread if possible. I sleep over it.
Select to expand quoteYellowHelmet said..
I bought a Jack Plate to connect a carbon Slingshot V2 103 W mast to a Wizard 125.
1. I see the Jack Plate is V1. Is there also a V2. I don't see anywhere a V2. So i guess / hope the Jack Plate V1 is good to connect to the carbon mast V2.
2. There are 2 tuttle connectors included.
And this is strange :
a. There is a deep connector (70 mm to 50 mm), but which is too deep to fit the box of the Wizard 125. About 1 cm smaller.
b. There is a smaller connector (50 mm to 30mm) which is smaller than the original tuttle connector on my Hover Glide aluminum mast.
So this is strange the connector is shorter than the original connector.
Why does Slingshot make a smaller and thus weaker connector than the original one ?
Is using this smaller connector strong enough (for such a long mast).
Or should I saw 1 cm of the upper part of the aluminum or the deepest connector to make it fit.
3. The connector can be put in 5 different positions on the plate.
Is it save to use all the positions, or best the middle position for best distribution of forces.
4. Same question, but for the mast that can be put in different positions on the plate.
Is it save to use all the positions, or best the normal position for best distribution of forces.
5. The included screws for the connection between the plate and the connector are about 25 mm long, but the holes and the thread inside is much longer.
Does it make sense to buy longer screws for this ?
6. I have 8 little screws for the connection between the mast and the plate.
Do I use all 8 screws ? In the outer holes ?
7. Best taping the screws and marine grease on the thread.
8. I guess / hope this middle position is about the same as the position B on the Hover Glide switch blade. I think this would make sense.
Thanks for your insights.
Guido
What I really don't understand the factory screws for the connection between the jack plate and the connector piece are not full length.
On all pieces Slingshot emphasizes to use the correct screws and no shorter screws, especially for the screws in the length direction of the mast, like the screws in the B position, the screws of the deep tuttle to mast or board.
I have heard and seen many cases of bend screws or mast due to shorter screws.
This puzzles me.
Maybe I'm just too careful or cautious.
Select to expand quoteYellowHelmet said..
I bought a Jack Plate to connect a carbon Slingshot V2 103 W mast to a Wizard 125.
1. I see the Jack Plate is V1. Is there also a V2. I don't see anywhere a V2. So i guess / hope the Jack Plate V1 is good to connect to the carbon mast V2.
2. There are 2 tuttle connectors included.
And this is strange :
a. There is a deep connector (70 mm to 50 mm), but which is too deep to fit the box of the Wizard 125. About 1 cm smaller.
b. There is a smaller connector (50 mm to 30mm) which is smaller than the original tuttle connector on my Hover Glide aluminum mast.
So this is strange the connector is shorter than the original connector.
Why does Slingshot make a smaller and thus weaker connector than the original one ?
Is using this smaller connector strong enough (for such a long mast).
Or should I saw 1 cm of the upper part of the aluminum or the deepest connector to make it fit.
3. The connector can be put in 5 different positions on the plate.
Is it save to use all the positions, or best the middle position for best distribution of forces.
4. Same question, but for the mast that can be put in different positions on the plate.
Is it save to use all the positions, or best the normal position for best distribution of forces.
5. The included screws for the connection between the plate and the connector are about 25 mm long, but the holes and the thread inside is much longer.
Does it make sense to buy longer screws for this ?
6. I have 8 little screws for the connection between the mast and the plate.
Do I use all 8 screws ? In the outer holes ?
7. Best taping the screws and marine grease on the thread.
8. I guess / hope this middle position is about the same as the position B on the Hover Glide switch blade. I think this would make sense.
Thanks for your insights.
Guido
What I really don't understand the factory screws for the connection between the jack plate and the connector piece are not full length.
On all pieces Slingshot emphasizes to use the correct screws and no shorter screws, especially for the screws in the length direction of the mast, like the screws in the B position, the screws of the deep tuttle to mast or board.
I have heard and seen many cases of bend screws or mast due to shorter screws.
This puzzles me.
Maybe I'm just too careful or cautious.
Select to expand quoteYellowHelmet said..John340 said..
I used a jack plate with a 103 w aluminium mast. Although it corroded badly, it worked well. It did not work with my 103 w carbon mast, so I installed twin tracks on my Predator. Installing the twin tracks was a pain but well worth while.
Why did it not work with you carbon mast.
Wrong position of the holes ?
Problems with stifness or rigidity of the base of the mast ?
Is a petty such a nice board as the Predator has no double track, the future I think for fine tuning.
Holes were OK, but because the mast plate base is the same size as the jack plate, there is no adjustment unless you overhang the jack plate.
With the overhang, the distance between available bolt holes is reduced.
Agreed
My plate allows for the tuttle had to be set forward/back a bit. Not sure what version I have.
Thanks to all.
This how I did it.
Instead of the 35 mm M8 factory screws I use 50 mm and 60 mm M8 screws that are some mm longer than the smallest connector that fits my Wizard 125. The top of the screws of course don't touch the inside of the tuttle box.
I use the white tape around the screws and some grease knowing these screws won't be untightened often.
I put the connector in the middle of the jack plate. This is likely the strongest and most rigid connection. If I'm not mistaken there are 5 possibilities.
This position is good for me using a PTM926/872. The COL is OK. Guess this equals about the position B on a Hover glide fuselage.
The biggest and deepest connector piece I cannot use. Cutting or sawing makes no sense. It would corrode the metal and furthermore due to the open structure with wide cut outs it would not be closed at the top. That's why I will be giving this connector away for free to a promising and rising windfoil talent.
Like I said before the footprint of the jack plate is identical to my carbon 103W V2 mast. So I left it that way and did not shift the 2 pieces. So no overhang.
I used 8 small screws position 1 and 3 from right and 1 and 3 from left, all with grease.
The whole structure feels very solid and firm.
Of course it adds some weight.
I found : ? plate is 426 grams
? medium tuttle adapter is 173 grams
? Deep tuttle adapter is 345 grams
? roughly .7kgs for medium tuttle configuration and .85kgs for deep turtle including screws
