I'm having big problems with all my cams not wanting to swap sides. I've removed the spacers between the cam & battern. WHat do I do next?
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
check that the pins holding the rollers have not popped off, i have re-seated and glued mine
Select to expand quotehashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
Firstly there are at least 2 versions of the Hyperglide 2, the second generation has the longer XL cams, basically the same as the HGO, it rotates way better so I assume you don't have this version. You can't fit the XL cams to version 1 as the inner luff is cut differently.
The first version has the shorter cams and does not rotate well, short of 3D printing custom cams the best thing you can do is remove the spacers like you have and then wind the batten tension a fair way off on particularly cams 2 and 3 (from the bottom). Wind it off as much as you think is possible without hindering performance, you'll get a few wrinkles at the transition from the main panel to the luff pocket but it doesn't effect performance if you do it right. All the NZ lads at the nationals ran their rigs like that....it's basically all you can do short of 3D printing custom cams to address the design issues. Also note if you wind it off too far you'll have issues with cam 3 popping off when gybing downwind with the outhaul off.
Also as Doug mentioned, check the roll pins.
Select to expand quoteCJW said..hashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
I think he means to sand the back of the cam where the spacers go to affectively shorten them.
Select to expand quoteCJW said..hashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
Firstly there are at least 2 versions of the Hyperglide 2, the second generation has the longer XL cams, basically the same as the HGO, it rotates way better so I assume you don't have this version. You can't fit the XL cams to version 1 as the inner luff is cut differently.
The first version has the shorter cams and does not rotate well, short of 3D printing custom cams the best thing you can do is remove the spacers like you have and then wind the batten tension a fair way off on particularly cams 2 and 3 (from the bottom). Wind it off as much as you think is possible without hindering performance, you'll get a few wrinkles at the transition from the main panel to the luff pocket but it doesn't effect performance if you do it right. All the NZ lads at the nationals ran their rigs like that....it's basically all you can do short of 3D printing custom cams to address the design issues. Also note if you wind it off too far you'll have issues with cam 3 popping off when gybing downwind with the outhaul off.
Also as Doug mentioned, check the roll pins.
Sounds crazy that there already are multiple versions of a 2021 sail. They haven't even reached the US yet. I have an 8m on order - certainly hope it rotates ok.
Select to expand quoteFoiler69er said..CJW said..hashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
Firstly there are at least 2 versions of the Hyperglide 2, the second generation has the longer XL cams, basically the same as the HGO, it rotates way better so I assume you don't have this version. You can't fit the XL cams to version 1 as the inner luff is cut differently.
The first version has the shorter cams and does not rotate well, short of 3D printing custom cams the best thing you can do is remove the spacers like you have and then wind the batten tension a fair way off on particularly cams 2 and 3 (from the bottom). Wind it off as much as you think is possible without hindering performance, you'll get a few wrinkles at the transition from the main panel to the luff pocket but it doesn't effect performance if you do it right. All the NZ lads at the nationals ran their rigs like that....it's basically all you can do short of 3D printing custom cams to address the design issues. Also note if you wind it off too far you'll have issues with cam 3 popping off when gybing downwind with the outhaul off.
Also as Doug mentioned, check the roll pins.
Sounds crazy that there already are multiple versions of a 2021 sail. They haven't even reached the US yet. I have an 8m on order - certainly hope it rotates ok.
Are you ordering HGO or HG2? Do you also have a 9? I don't want the hassles of a 9 for non-race use (which is 95% of the time for me) and wondering if the '21 8s have enough bottom end.
Select to expand quotePaducah said..Foiler69er said..CJW said..hashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
Firstly there are at least 2 versions of the Hyperglide 2, the second generation has the longer XL cams, basically the same as the HGO, it rotates way better so I assume you don't have this version. You can't fit the XL cams to version 1 as the inner luff is cut differently.
The first version has the shorter cams and does not rotate well, short of 3D printing custom cams the best thing you can do is remove the spacers like you have and then wind the batten tension a fair way off on particularly cams 2 and 3 (from the bottom). Wind it off as much as you think is possible without hindering performance, you'll get a few wrinkles at the transition from the main panel to the luff pocket but it doesn't effect performance if you do it right. All the NZ lads at the nationals ran their rigs like that....it's basically all you can do short of 3D printing custom cams to address the design issues. Also note if you wind it off too far you'll have issues with cam 3 popping off when gybing downwind with the outhaul off.
Also as Doug mentioned, check the roll pins.
Sounds crazy that there already are multiple versions of a 2021 sail. They haven't even reached the US yet. I have an 8m on order - certainly hope it rotates ok.
Are you ordering HGO or HG2? Do you also have a 9? I don't want the hassles of a 9 for non-race use (which is 95% of the time for me) and wondering if the '21 8s have enough bottom end.
I'm ordering the 8 m2 Foil Glide 2
I have the FGO 7 m2. That's a great sail and no issues with rotating.
Select to expand quoteFoiler69er said..Paducah said..Foiler69er said..CJW said..hashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
Firstly there are at least 2 versions of the Hyperglide 2, the second generation has the longer XL cams, basically the same as the HGO, it rotates way better so I assume you don't have this version. You can't fit the XL cams to version 1 as the inner luff is cut differently.
The first version has the shorter cams and does not rotate well, short of 3D printing custom cams the best thing you can do is remove the spacers like you have and then wind the batten tension a fair way off on particularly cams 2 and 3 (from the bottom). Wind it off as much as you think is possible without hindering performance, you'll get a few wrinkles at the transition from the main panel to the luff pocket but it doesn't effect performance if you do it right. All the NZ lads at the nationals ran their rigs like that....it's basically all you can do short of 3D printing custom cams to address the design issues. Also note if you wind it off too far you'll have issues with cam 3 popping off when gybing downwind with the outhaul off.
Also as Doug mentioned, check the roll pins.
Sounds crazy that there already are multiple versions of a 2021 sail. They haven't even reached the US yet. I have an 8m on order - certainly hope it rotates ok.
Are you ordering HGO or HG2? Do you also have a 9? I don't want the hassles of a 9 for non-race use (which is 95% of the time for me) and wondering if the '21 8s have enough bottom end.
I'm ordering the 8 m2 Foil Glide 2
I have the FGO 7 m2. That's a great sail and no issues with rotating.
Dude, we're talking about the Hyper-glide 2 which is Severne's full on foil race sail, NOT the freeride orientated Foil-glide. Two very different sails, not to be confused.
Select to expand quoteCJW said..Foiler69er said..Paducah said..Foiler69er said..CJW said..hashbrown said..
Roughest sandpaper you can find and you will eventually get 10 out of 10 rotation if you sand enough of the inside cam off.
What does that do, effectively shorten the cam? Are you changing the diameter or angle the cam interfaces the mast at? 10/10 is a big call ^_^
Firstly there are at least 2 versions of the Hyperglide 2, the second generation has the longer XL cams, basically the same as the HGO, it rotates way better so I assume you don't have this version. You can't fit the XL cams to version 1 as the inner luff is cut differently.
The first version has the shorter cams and does not rotate well, short of 3D printing custom cams the best thing you can do is remove the spacers like you have and then wind the batten tension a fair way off on particularly cams 2 and 3 (from the bottom). Wind it off as much as you think is possible without hindering performance, you'll get a few wrinkles at the transition from the main panel to the luff pocket but it doesn't effect performance if you do it right. All the NZ lads at the nationals ran their rigs like that....it's basically all you can do short of 3D printing custom cams to address the design issues. Also note if you wind it off too far you'll have issues with cam 3 popping off when gybing downwind with the outhaul off.
Also as Doug mentioned, check the roll pins.
Sounds crazy that there already are multiple versions of a 2021 sail. They haven't even reached the US yet. I have an 8m on order - certainly hope it rotates ok.
Are you ordering HGO or HG2? Do you also have a 9? I don't want the hassles of a 9 for non-race use (which is 95% of the time for me) and wondering if the '21 8s have enough bottom end.
I'm ordering the 8 m2 Foil Glide 2
I have the FGO 7 m2. That's a great sail and no issues with rotating.
Dude, we're talking about the Hyper-glide 2 which is Severne's full on foil race sail, NOT the freeride orientated Foil-glide. Two very different sails, not to be confused.
Oh man - sorry for the confusion. I get those sails mixed up ... all the 'glide' names....
Nobody has mentioned the critical importance of the mast in this situation. Make sure you are using a recommended mast, or at least a mast with the same bend curve and IMCS.
Select to expand quotesegler said..
Nobody has mentioned the critical importance of the mast in this situation. Make sure you are using a recommended mast, or at least a mast with the same bend curve and IMCS.
Normally sound advice but I can attest the problem exists with the recommended specified mast. Without some of the changes that CJW suggested (some of which I had blundered upon independently), the sail didn't have trouble rotating. It didn't rotate at all. You and Mr. Bernoulli would be surprised how far one can foil with an inverted sail.
