Hi
I've been using the foil for a couple of months without disassembling each session. I was confident Tef gel I put would work. Yesterday I tried to disassembly everything but two bolts didn't want to. Screw head about to disappear.
I've been looking for a similar post but didn't find it. Any advice to solve it?
Thanks.
If your screw driver is losing grip you can try placing an elastic band between screw driver and screw head. Not sure if that works for allen key. But if its really stuck you can buy reverse direction drill bits and as you drill into the screw (driver in reverse) it often pulls the stuck bolt out. Never done it myself though, heard 2nd hand.
what brand foil is it and which bolts are stuck? I've found some countersunk bolts will bind at the head/countersink to the point where the Allen hole gets stripped (even with a good tool). I've had to drill out the heads and after that the screw (coated with Tef-Gel) comes out easily. I now grease the countersinks in addition to the threads.
I had this problem on the hover glide fuse to mast bolts and on the Project Cedrus top plate bolts. Both M8 Allen heads.
Select to expand quotesunsetsailboards said..
what brand foil is it and which bolts are stuck? I've found some countersunk bolts will bind at the head/countersink to the point where the Allen hole gets stripped (even with a good tool). I've had to drill out the heads and after that the screw (coated with Tef-Gel) comes out easily. I now grease the countersinks in addition to the threads.
I had this problem on the hover glide fuse to mast bolts and on the Project Cedrus top plate bolts. Both M8 Allen heads.
It's a Neil pryde glide foil. Torx bolts, I guess titanium (??)
Try soaking bolts O/N with a solvent for freeing rusted bolts (WD-40 if you have nothing better), then using a socket wrench tap the end of the handle with a hammer while you press down onto the torx bit. Could also use a hand held impact wrench if you have one (just hit the end with a hammer).
Once you get it out, use teflon tape on the threads, as long as they are completely covered the screw will not get stuck.
Select to expand quoteMucel said..sunsetsailboards said..
what brand foil is it and which bolts are stuck? I've found some countersunk bolts will bind at the head/countersink to the point where the Allen hole gets stripped (even with a good tool). I've had to drill out the heads and after that the screw (coated with Tef-Gel) comes out easily. I now grease the countersinks in addition to the threads.
I had this problem on the hover glide fuse to mast bolts and on the Project Cedrus top plate bolts. Both M8 Allen heads.
It's a Neil pryde glide foil. Torx bolts, I guess titanium (??)
Titanium plated stainless steel. I assume any scratches through the coat offers a way for the dissimilar metals to do their thing in salt water.
Select to expand quotethedoor said..
If your screw driver is losing grip you can try placing an elastic band between screw driver and screw head. Not sure if that works for allen key. But if its really stuck you can buy reverse direction drill bits and as you drill into the screw (driver in reverse) it often pulls the stuck bolt out. Never done it myself though, heard 2nd hand.
A bit of heat on a bolt head often helps.
I had the same problem with 2 mast/mount Naish screws. Same thing, I use Tefgel but they got stuck. What worked for me was soaking the mount in very cold water and then heating the mast with hot water (I didn't use boiling water). Worked first go
I had the same problem in fresh water. The bolt still had grease on it. The friction was from the 45 degree flat head countersink interface as mentioned above.
I only had to drill a small amount for the head pressure to release, and could spin in out by hand.
You guys might find this interesting.
Some people swear by it in the automotive industry.
I have no affiliation.
Just a suggestion that might help.
Loctite LB 8040 Freeze & Release 310gLoctite LB 8040 is a special mineral oil designed to free rusted, corroded and seized parts. The shock-freezing effect will cool parts instantly down to -43 degrees C and cause microscopic cracks in the layer of rust. This allows the lubricating ingredients to wick directly into the rust by capillary action. The product leaves a thin film on the released parts that lubricates and prevents rust.
Try putting some valve grinding paste in the torx socket. Aids in giving the bit some grip. Well works for Phillips and hex so assume it might work in torx.
For stripped hex/allen head bolts I would try the torx bit mentioned above. Back a few decades ago worked in a bicycle shop. The days of steel. Occasionally a customer would bring in a bike with a corroded bonded stem (quill stems, pre-threadless era). Penetrating fluids, light taps and if needed brute force usually broke the corrosion bond. Last option. Light heat and a blast of C02 to rapidly cool the heated surface. Sometimes a distressing loud cracking sound of the bond breaking. Wouldn't use the heat method on any carbon foil setup unless someone else has without any issues. You will still need to use the torx method to grip the bolt head.
A friend who routinely shears the fuse to mast bolts has got drilling out and removing the remaining bolt section down. There is a specialized "bit" he has purchased that pulls the bolt remnant out. Better option than any heat method. Few USD or Euros or .... But relative to the price of the foil????
