First attempt on a high aspect foil

I have never used a race foil, though my AFS S670 cm2 wing was part of the old pre 2020 slalom series and definitely likes going upwind/downwind fast! With that said, I have read here that race foils are made for upwind/downwind runs and if you go crosswind they are too powerful, that sounds like what you experienced, maybe? The new AFS Performer foil is designed for just that, upwind/downwind slalom racing (according to AFS website), and that is why I have been hesitant to get it, that and the biggest AFS wing for it is 900 cm2 which as you point out with the IQ foil 900 wing (cm2?) takes a lot of pumping to get up on.

Ugh I think my pictures could have been better as I think there's parallax issue with the bolt hole but somewhere around 43 is the center, maybe a little less.

I personally find the +1 to be challenging above 12kts when the mast is at the center mark. I usually ride +0.5. I think that you rode mine with +0.5.

I've been told by (certain pro) that he can ride a +1 until about 14kts maybe more after a lot of practice. I'm 91kg last I rode (saturday) in somewhere around 7-10 maybe a little more, +0.5, mast at center, not taking too much work but I could've moved the mast back.

My novice "freerace" experience is that the 115+ fuse is a **** of a thing on a reach. Unless you just want to go up/down wind you'd be better off with a 95/105 fuse. Just my opinion from my own experience. I initially went from Supercruiser to GTR+ (95+) and loved it. Then plugged in 115+.hated it!

Please check first your stab if it is 255 or it is 255(-2).
If you used 255 without build in -2 angle and added +1 you set up yourself for incredibly early lift but absolutely no stability in more speed !
That is crazy setup !

When Starboard introduced 115+ & 115++ the recommended stab has built in -2 angle and then you add shims as the balance changes when the front wing is moved forward (from original 115 black one).
Starboard has nice graphs on their website somewhere how moving front wing forward is more efficient geometry.

I think Berowne mentioned in his post that for Starboard Race Foils the shim (stab angle) is the most critical for stability.

You (and many) may be surprised that I ride both fuselages 115+ & 115++ mostly BAF (beam reach) with M1000 (Millenium) wing in relatively light winds and big sails (11m) - no problem with that.
I actually love it. Long fuse and -0.5 shim (on top of -2 build in the stab) is for more speed rather than early lift therefore in gusts the foil shoots forward instead of uncontrolled lift "elevator effect" (like in shovels or aggressive stab angle).
BTW: I am 90kg+ too. In gear over 100kg.

I love to use 115++ fuse with Starboard Go 180L & 200L because the foil mast is behind rear footstraps. Using 75cm mast with a flange.
I love to use 115+ fuse with Starboard FW 167L & Race 100 because the foil mast is where the rear footstraps are. With variety of masts.





When you are 90kg and over, you may revisit some feedback I posted earlier for "Heavy Dudes" in Light winds:
Impressions of new Windfoil boards for super heavyweights | Windsurfing Forums, page 1 (seabreeze.com.au)
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Foiling/Impressions-of-new-Windfoil-boards-for-super-heavyweights#2809771

Relative or Starboard discussed angle:
You can find more information about 115+ fuselages, the geometry, default for these + fuselages - stabilizers with built in -2 angle.
You will also find that the angle range with shims becomes from -4 angle (-2 shim) to -1 angle (+1 shim) therefore if you are using the original stabilizer 255 (no -2 built in) then with your +1 shim you are at +1 angle - out of range even for the lightest winds.
Here is more info at Starboard Website:
2022 iQFOIL - Starboard Foils
starboardfoils.com/pages/2022-iqfoil

Absolute angle:
BTW: All above is in reference to "base 3.7 degree angle" which was built in 255 original stabilizer considered as 0 Relative (or Starboard discussed) angle.
So 255 with built in -2 angle is 1.7 degree actual angle (2 less than original 255).
This was earlier discussed on Seabreeze.

Thanks so much for all your thoughts - I really appreciate it.

I do get confused with the + and - designations of Stab and shims! I have four shims on hand: +1, +0.5, 0 and - 0.5.

The Stab I have is the 255 (-2.) Below is the 115+ fuse lying on the deck, lined up with the box, with the front footstraps as far forward as possible and you can see that it's pretty close to the straps. What do you think? Unworkable or worth messing with? I may be able to find a 115 non+ fuselage for use with this board but the maximum distance from front bolt to mastfoot is only 42.5" so that's also a limiting factor. Probably the foil would set up better on my Tillo Convertible which has a longer mastfoot but that has a Deep Tuttle Box so I'd have to trim the top of the IQ Masthead to fit. I do like using the Alien because it's lighter and nimbler than the Tillo

That's going to be challenging if you aren't using large sails and sailing upwind, downwind aggressively.
You might try shimming for more rake as well as the stab for less lift.

Compare the track box position for the Alien and the IQFoil board (boards are scaled, the IQ is 5 cm longer):
If you have the mast foot all the way in front in the Alien, that's all the way in back on the IQ Foil.
Similarly, the front foot strap positions are about 6 cm further back on the Alien.
Both will make it quite difficult to get the same amount of pressure on the nose, which would explain what you experienced.

Try without footstraps to see where your feet are when foiling. I was also thinking about you trying a shorter fuselage if different setups don't work.

The black fuse is very stable without being overly powerful.

Update with a few more sessions under my belt: It's mostly a ToW thing - just getting used to the sickening acceleration and much higher top speed. Pointing angle is way higher, not surprisingly. It's a much more physical experience than freeride foiling, for sure.

I did find a 115 black fuselage which offered a less scary ride but was harder to pump (makes sense - stab is further back) and not all that stable in the air. What's worked best so far is the -0.5 shim on the 115+ fuse, front footstraps ALL the way forward, mastfoot likewise. It's very front-footed still, and an exhilarating but exhausting ride. I'm not yet nearly good enough at pumping up in marginal wind - best experience has been in around 16 with a 7.0 sail, where I was basically hooking in and taking off.

In the meanwhile, the 1050 Taaroa HA wing I'd given up hope on ever arriving, finally did arrive, not from France but from Thailand via China and Alaska, and I've had a chance to compare it to the IQ foil. It's liftier - siginicantly lower takeoff speed - and in some ways more predictable, but offers a very vague feel directionally and I wonder if that's the shorter (95cm) fuse, or the squishier Taaroa mast, or maybe both.

Yeah unfortunately you have a mismatch between board and foil at this stage. The ideal setup for this race gear is to have your mast base forward enough that you can keep it flying level by powering up your sail (sheeting in) and using the mast base to push the nose down to a level attitude when flying. Then as others have mentioned you need to angle the board to windward and point upwind and downwind when hit by gusts as this set up is not for reaching. If you can get it sorted you will love it, but it is scary so dont expect it not to be. :)