It's a chunky left bro and packing some juice - look at the lip on it. You're definitely close, but no choob man. Beast of a wave and sick photos though. You're on a tear at the minute mate.
you had a little shade over you so claim away. Wide boards don't fit well in anything less than a giant barrel its so easy to get flipped so be careful out there
It's a chunky left bro and packing some juice - look at the lip on it. You're definitely close, but no choob man. Beast of a wave and sick photos though. You're on a tear at the minute mate.
I'm sad now ,lol.pity my daughter didn't get the drop in I near peed me pants ,had spray coming off the nose ,it was quite windy
and getting down them ,I had to put the go go gadget arms on .heres another one of the day .

Dude! Don't be sad mate.
It's a freakin' beast of a wave! You're surfing is next level at the moment - seriously bro. And fair dinkum, I was checking the photos out for ages , zooming in and out, especially the first photo. I couldn't decide, so I thought, righto, if I was judging a comp and it came down to that wave, how would I score it, and it was just sooo close. It'd be like a 9.5 as opposed to a perfect 10 - that's how close it was in my head. But, as slsurf and Creeky said, man, you're clearly slotted - and you're absolutely ripping - so it's definitely yours to claim brus! (And anyway, don't worry about me mate, I'm just jealous af! and hangin' out for some decent waves) ![]()
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Mate, it's definitely shading the back of your neck, and whispering in your ear. I'd call it a bazza ![]()
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Dude! Don't be sad mate.
It's a freakin' beast of a wave! You're surfing is next level at the moment - seriously bro. And fair dinkum, I was checking the photos out for ages , zooming in and out, especially the first photo. I couldn't decide, so I thought, righto, if I was judging a comp and it came down to that wave, how would I score it, and it was just sooo close. It'd be like a 9.5 as opposed to a perfect 10 - that's how close it was in my head. But, as slsurf and Creeky said, man, you're clearly slotted - and you're absolutely ripping - so it's definitely yours to claim brus! (And anyway, don't worry about me mate, I'm just jealous af! and hangin' out for some decent waves) ![]()
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HA HA .I'll take the 9,5 brus, thanks man .
heres the set wave story ,I was sitting out back 7 surfers sitting just to my right ..we where all waiting ,i saw this mountain of water coming from way back i started paddling out the back which made the surfers nervous ,as I notice they watch me now and expect waves when i start paddling ..I paddled deep into the shallow sucky reef ledge ,this thing had spray coming off it already ,i paddled straight at it and done a sharp U turn on the face to catch it and then started paddling like crazy ..some of the surfers where lining up as they thought i was gonna miss it ,as i paddled it just sucked up and spray was coming off the lip both sides of me it was a bit windy i was ready to drop down ,,it was a hell drop in ,spray was coming off the nose of the 8'8 as i hit the bottom of the bowl ,it was at its limits the flow ,and I took a big breath as i thought I was ready to get munted ,all I could her was 7 surfers yelling yeow ...i thought i was a gonna ,but hung in ,a big bottom turn and straight down the line ...i come out of there like a racing horse out of a gate ,i couldn't even turn my board it was going so fast ,my heart was pounding ..and a deep sigh of relieve came as I'd survived ...as that thing would of munched me
i flicked off the back ..the guys where still cheering ..as if they've never seen a wave like it ,or a crazy SUP dude ,
as we all gathered after the surf drinking Iron Jack beer on shore ,and talked about the waves ,it was kinda nice to here a few compliments from surfer ,as SUP is here to stay . .thanks for the stoke comments .I don't really rip .
Maybe coz you were wearing a hat you thought you were covered ?? sorry man no barrel, though if we went upstairs and got every angle over and over again it might prove a try I mean a barrel
Mate, it's definitely shading the back of your neck, and whispering in your ear. I'd call it a bazza ![]()
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A bazza ,I like it ..![]()
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Maybe coz you were wearing a hat you thought you were covered ?? sorry man no barrel, though if we went upstairs and got every angle over and over again it might prove a try I mean a barrel
ha yeah .love me hats no hair left ....it was close ..I need full cover right ..next time ..I need to practice stalling my board .
Love to have seen the take off-good yarn. Looks like a full on slabby and sucky peak that'd really draw water up the face so engage the toenails on the steep drop and they're really hard to brush off speed on a shortboard let alone a sup. I'd give it a filthy coverup on a bowly end section status and repeat the fruity dog score but throw in the extra .5 for degree of difficulty. Don't know if you'd want to be stalling too muchwith that foamball up your clacker its a beast like the lip. must be a great wave stoked for ya.
I reckon the angle doesn't do that justice, if it was looking down the barrel so to speak you are slotted!
My rule for a shortboard is that you have to be covered. Not disappeared, but maybe only the legs showing. Rule for a SUP is over the shoulder. SUP gets a handicap, as it's so, so much harder
But on a wave that heavy, under the hood is well good enough! ![]()
surfing is all about perception. If you think you got barrelled, you did, end of the day doesn't matter what we think.
Like Iam, looks it and feels it. must be it. And the full back story was a great one to hear. That will keep you going.
Hi Tardy, no barrel but a beast of a wave, the drop and the speed would be enough of a thrill anyway.