Looking for help / ideas regarding making a smaller (and lower volume) sup from a larger (7'8" 96L Naish Hokua) sup that I have previously creased (double crease), I was thinking about cutting the creased bits out (about 4/5" each side of the hand hole), the board would then need to be rejoined / aligned and glassed etc. Would this work? and is it possible and worth the effort & time? And does anyone know someone that can do this. I have done this to a short board previously (when I was younger about 20 years ago) and it turned out great but an epoxy & carbon sup is a different story so any ideas and advice would be much appreciated ?:-)
Its way easier to fix a crease than a total snap.
In the above situation you're kinda creating a total snap....
Maintaining rocker not easy but not impossible.
The long bevel/ skarf joint required and the amount of material required also.....
Wouldn't be worth it IMHO. Fix the crease....
Its way easier to fix a crease than a total snap.
In the above situation you're kinda creating a total snap....
Maintaining rocker not easy but not impossible.
The long bevel/ skarf joint required and the amount of material required also.....
Wouldn't be worth it IMHO. Fix the crease....
Hi
I fixed the crease/s and was going to use as a spare back up board but I prefer to have a smaller & lower volume wave / training board maybe ?:-)
just do a stinger with it.
Forget appropriated saying by Mark.
So head on, cut straight and square to the stringer out of the crease and stick back the two halves. Keep deck profile lines flush and do a stepped bottom.
Luckily the creases are around the widest point. So cut as close as possible off the front part. You can cut off the rear part. I would say 1/2 'off the tail part. So 6" from and 2" from the nose will bring your new Stinger to 7'![]()
Dick Brewer have done some design like that in late 70, I always wonder if the original design and genesis of that Stinger were just board snapped...
just do a stinger with it.
Forget appropriated saying by Mark.
So head on, cut straight and square to the stringer out of the crease and stick back the two halves. Keep deck profile lines flush and do a stepped bottom.
Luckily the creases are around the widest point. So cut as close as possible off the front part. You can cut off the rear part. I would say 1/2 'off the tail part. So 6" from and 2" from the nose will bring your new Stinger to 7'![]()
Dick Brewer have done some design like that in late 70, I always wonder if the original design and genesis of that Stinger were just board snapped...
Yes thats what i was thinking Kami but I can not really do the whole job myself (a bit too much for me to handle), just wonder if anyone knows anyone in Sydney ?:-)