Forums > Stand Up Paddle General

Shortening my paddle

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Created by IanH > 9 months ago, 3 Nov 2014
IanH
NSW, 8 posts
3 Nov 2014 7:31PM
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Hi All,

When I got my first fixed length carbon paddle I made it a bit longer than I thought I would need so that I could shorten it later if required.

For this reason I glued it with 5 minute Araldite, as I was led to believe that I could heat it up and take it apart later.

Has anyone had experience with this operation that they could share please?

Hillsy

DavidJohn
VIC, 17569 posts
3 Nov 2014 8:06PM
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IanH said..
Hi All,

When I got my first fixed length carbon paddle I made it a bit longer than I thought I would need so that I could shorten it later if required.

For this reason I glued it with 5 minute Araldite, as I was led to believe that I could heat it up and take it apart later.

Has anyone had experience with this operation that they could share please?

Hillsy


I've done it heaps and IMO the best method is to dip the T handle and few inches of shaft into a pot of boiling water for about a minute and the get a pot holder or towel and twits it off.. It should come off pretty easy the boiling water will preven over heating or doing any heat related damage.

Area10
1508 posts
3 Nov 2014 6:06PM
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I use 5 min araldite and I've never managed to get a handle off using the DJ method, except on Kialoas that have the foam insert (t-handle that goes over the shaft rather than a handle that goes in the shaft). A friend of mine has also not been able to. But one other has succeeded. So I think it depends on how good a job you have made of gluing it. There was no way in hell my handles were coming off- I boiled them for over an hour and two people tried to get the handle off, and we used specialist grips. The only way was to cut the handle off and then destroy the shaft by prising it off bit by bit and then sanding it down. Much easier to buy a new handle...

DavidJohn
VIC, 17569 posts
3 Nov 2014 9:47PM
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The newer Kialoa paddles do not have the foam in the T piece like the older Methane type paddles.. The newer types are like most other paddles.. I've taken at least 4-5 of the new type off using boiling water.. The main problem is getting leverage to twist the handle off.. Sometimes they just twist off without much effort.. With the stubborn ones I have stuck the blade between a couple of kitchen cupboards to hold the blade so you can put full effort into twisting the handle.. or you can get someone to stand on the blade ( blade on carpet or wrapped in a cloth ) and then twist.. I've never had a problem.. The 5 minute Aroldite goes soft and rubbery after a short time in boiling water..

Just cutting it off and buying a new handle is for sure the easiest way..

Area10
1508 posts
3 Nov 2014 7:28PM
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Well there must be something different about the composition of 5 min Araldite in the UK vs. Australia then because even after an hour of boiling, or the use of a heat gun to the point that the handle was starting to delam, the Araldite remained as solid as a rock. No rubberiness whatsoever.

Cobra
9106 posts
3 Nov 2014 7:55PM
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I've taken heaps off
even QB paddles with those eva handles
never a problem. I've worked with graphite before SUP

Tips
1 you need to have the heat gun on medium.
2 dont place the heat gun to close about 8"
3 move the heat gun around so you don't get hot spots on the graphite.
4 apply heat for about 1min,, then think of pulling the handle straight with a very very slight twist. "never turn the handle like a tight vegemite jar " you can make the graphite puff and wreck the shaft and handle.if it won't come off apply a bit more heat say 20s, if still to hard, again another 20s and so on.

5 to protect eva handles, just place a bit of wood in the way of heat.
6 be careful if using a vice to keep the paddle still,as you can crack and scratch the shaft.
7 use leather gloves so you don't get burnt.

i have even extended paddles with no problems Umm thats a little bit more complicated

Area10
1508 posts
3 Nov 2014 8:49PM
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Yeah yeah yeah done all that and still no joy. A friend who is a craftsman also tried boiling on his after using the same glue and had no luck. But as I say, one other has managed fine but I don't know if it was the same formulation glue. It's going to matter a lot what the melting point of the glue is. So the best I can say is give it a go and maybe you'll succeed, maybe not. If you don't, then buy a new handle and hope that you like your new paddle 2-3" shorter (if you are using a typical handle that goes into the shaft).

I always hot glue my handles on now. But you have to do it right and keep water from getting in the seam (no matter what you might read elsewhere). Strangely, the friend of mine who manages to unglue his handles has never had any success with hot glue. So we are clearly doing different things and/or using different glues. He apparently left his Araldited paddle in his car in Hawaii and the handle unglued itself in the heat. But I can't get my Araldited handles off even with a heat gun never mind boiling, and my hot glued handles don't come off if I leave them in the sun. Go figure.

Cobra
9106 posts
4 Nov 2014 6:47AM
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like i said, if no joy another 20s on the heat gun, and again and again..if still no joy,wait till the graphite shaft cools totally,then start all over again
you are right,there are lots of different glues.always buy the clear type of epoxies.
the solid colour epoxies are a lot harder to heat off..but they do come off

E T
QLD, 2286 posts
4 Nov 2014 10:30AM
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Cobra said..
like i said, if no joy another 20s on the heat gun, and again and again..if still no joy,wait till the graphite shaft cools totally,then start all over again
you are right,there are lots of different glues.always buy the clear type of epoxies.
the solid colour epoxies are a lot harder to heat off..but they do come off


Very informative for us numbskulls.

Thank you Cobra.

ET.

ShireSUP
NSW, 982 posts
4 Nov 2014 11:37AM
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Buy a Ke Nalu - problem solved

Comrad
SA, 70 posts
4 Nov 2014 3:49PM
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I tried heating the handle using the above advice, I guess I just used to much good glue so I came up with a more drastic solution. I have taken some pics of what turned out to be a quick easy job.
1, Cut shaft to correct length, if your shortening the length only a small amount the tongue of the handle inside the shaft will also be cut through also.
2, Use a dremel or similar to grind a slot in the the excess shaft on the handle, lever the remaining piece of shaft off the handle, comes off easy.
3, Use dremel to grind another slot in the excess handle tongue located inside the shortened shaft. Lever the remaining piece of handle out of the shaft.

The attached pictures will hopefully make more sense.









Note, if your only shortening by a small amount, say 1 centimeter then your handle tongue wont have much of an overlap inside the paddle shaft. I wouldn't use this method unless I was shortening the paddle by at least 20mm, preferably more



NNSUP
NSW, 1263 posts
4 Nov 2014 4:59PM
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Sam Parker at Wind surf N snow at Long Reef glues mine with a heat gun and glue gun. I have a Fanatic extension handle which works in exactly the same way as the Ke Nalu. I can extend or shorten it as required just by carefully heating the carbon shaft, re glueing the handle and then reinserting it to the desired length. It's completely water tight and easy to do.
Mark Chandler at ESS should be able to do the same.

Loz79
QLD, 459 posts
5 Nov 2014 9:09PM
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IanH said..
Hi All,

When I got my first fixed length carbon paddle I made it a bit longer than I thought I would need so that I could shorten it later if required.

For this reason I glued it with 5 minute Araldite, as I was led to believe that I could heat it up and take it apart later.

Has anyone had experience with this operation that they could share please?

Hillsy


Ive just shortened my surf paddle, i boiled the kettle, put the water in a bowl and let the handle of the paddle sit in it for a couple of minutes and then gave the handle a small twist and it pulled straight out (i had a towel over the handle). I used the normal Araldyte with the self mixing nozzle to re glue the handle in. Ive done this a few times now and have never had a problem either getting a handle off or a glued handle getting loose...

LordKuz
NSW, 260 posts
5 Nov 2014 10:30PM
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Some must be using either a completely different Araldite than I know of... or they only use a few drops? It comes apart when heated? Not when I araldite something... its permanent... and if heated, I was under the impression that araldite just hardens and expands slightly...... I would have said you would never get that handle off!

Loz79
QLD, 459 posts
5 Nov 2014 10:04PM
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LordKuz said...
Some must be using either a completely different Araldite than I know of... or they only use a few drops? It comes apart when heated? Not when I araldite something... its permanent... and if heated, I was under the impression that araldite just hardens and expands slightly...... I would have said you would never get that handle off!


i use the genuine araldite and use heaps on the handle, I even scratch up the handle for a bit of key. I once tried heating with a flame n it was not successful, with hot water tho it's easy, the araldite goes soft n gooey...

DavidJohn
VIC, 17569 posts
6 Nov 2014 12:17AM
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Loz79 said..

LordKuz said...
Some must be using either a completely different Araldite than I know of... or they only use a few drops? It comes apart when heated? Not when I araldite something... its permanent... and if heated, I was under the impression that araldite just hardens and expands slightly...... I would have said you would never get that handle off!



i use the genuine araldite and use heaps on the handle, I even scratch up the handle for a bit of key. I once tried heating with a flame n it was not successful, with hot water tho it's easy, the araldite goes soft n gooey...



Yeah.. Glad it's not just me then..

Cobra
9106 posts
6 Nov 2014 8:45AM
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why are you blokes using heaps of glue
if the handle (or anything ) has a snug fit… all you are doing is pushing glue down the shaft.
then the extra glue can brake off and rattle around in the shaft.

like i said in the other post..the clear epoxies are easy to come off..the solid colour epoxy is a lot harder to come apart.

Cobra
9106 posts
6 Nov 2014 9:19AM
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LordKuz said..
Some must be using either a completely different Araldite than I know of... or they only use a few drops? It comes apart when heated? Not when I araldite something... its permanent... and if heated, I was under the impression that araldite just hardens and expands slightly...... I would have said you would never get that handle off!


Some must be using either a completely different Araldite than I know of. ….. probably

or they only use a few drops? ….. a few drops has nothing to do with it.

and if heated, I was under the impression that araldite just hardens and expands slightly……. no it doesn't ..it breaks down.
so if its not coming off, your not applying enough heat.


araldite is Epoxy.

5min epoxy is a lot softer than 24hr.
the solid colour epoxies have fillers ,they help with the slump in the epoxies, + other factors like bonding different products.

when you glue with epoxy, its best to keep the resin & hardener warm.
thats why professional places have heating rooms so epoxy hardens to achieve maximum bond.

Loz79
QLD, 459 posts
6 Nov 2014 12:58PM
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Cobra said...
why are you blokes using heaps of glue
if the handle (or anything ) has a snug fit… all you are doing is pushing glue down the shaft.
then the extra glue can brake off and rattle around in the shaft.

like i said in the other post..the clear epoxies are easy to come off..the solid colour epoxy is a lot harder to come apart.



I use a fair bit of glue but find that the excess glue is pushed up out of the shaft, I catch this with a rag and like to leave a little lump of glue at the join to help water seal....

Comrad
SA, 70 posts
6 Nov 2014 5:08PM
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Cobra said..
why are you blokes using heaps of glue
if the handle (or anything ) has a snug fit? all you are doing is pushing glue down the shaft.
then the extra glue can brake off and rattle around in the shaft.

like i said in the other post..the clear epoxies are easy to come off..the solid colour epoxy is a lot harder to come apart.


When I first assembled the paddle I didn't realize I could get away with coating only a small contact area with Araldite. I tried the suggested methods but didn't persist with them for long, I was short on time and knew I could remove the handle if I cut the shaft to the new length, tidy it up and then re-glue it, using less this time around

Haven't tried to remove the handle since I did the job, definitely does not leak using much less glue.

I took the pics when I did the job as I thought others may be impatient like me or maybe used the wrong glue

IanH
NSW, 8 posts
6 Nov 2014 6:10PM
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Darryn said..

Cobra said..
why are you blokes using heaps of glue
if the handle (or anything ) has a snug fit? all you are doing is pushing glue down the shaft.
then the extra glue can brake off and rattle around in the shaft.

like i said in the other post..the clear epoxies are easy to come off..the solid colour epoxy is a lot harder to come apart.



When I first assembled the paddle I didn't realize I could get away with coating only a small contact area with Araldite. I tried the suggested methods but didn't persist with them for long, I was short on time and knew I could remove the handle if I cut the shaft to the new length, tidy it up and then re-glue it, using less this time around

Haven't tried to remove the handle since I did the job, definitely does not leak using much less glue.

I took the pics when I did the job as I thought others may be impatient like me or maybe used the wrong glue



Thanks for all the input people,

I'll give hot water a go first then maybe the heatgun, as was said early in the thread if its too much trouble I'll get another paddle , always good to have a spare anyway.

Hillsy



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"Shortening my paddle" started by IanH