Yep... paddling around on the 14 footer too much, even taking it surfing more often than not. Made me lazy. Haven't been on my short prone board for a while due to a back problem.
The 11'4 has been sitting in it's board bag for a couple of months and I decided it was time to 'get used to it' again in the cracker conditions we've had this week. A few days ago - perfect offshore, barrels everywhere, only a couple of guys doing tow-ins 1km up the beach. Had to have a piece of that.
Finally got through the shore dump from hell - 4 footers breaking in about 2' of water. Got out the back easy enough although the board was feeling wobbly already.
Got hung up in the offshore on the first wave and missed it but after then was sweet. Spent the next hour catching waves in a constant circle... getting tired, not used to paddling this banana rocker.
Then the wave of the day looms up right in front, I'm in the perfect spot, a lazy turn around and a few quick strokes I'm into it, or so I thought... the offshore catches me again, just for a sec but it's enough to change the takeoff into a double overhead air drop. Landed on the board, but the lip splatters me immediately after that. Lost the paddle - don't even remember it going.
Had to paddle prone back out to avoid the next waves and finally managed to catch a good wave in 10 minutes later.
Went and stashed the board in the dunes and went for a walk up the beach to find the paddle. Up at the headland a guy's carrying it down the beach toward me - he found it up the end of the next beach - it had travelled about 2.5km in that time. Turns out he was walking the dog and happened to see me when I first paddled out so figured the paddle was mine.
Lucky this time. Next time I'm going to paddle harder. Need to get fitter.
