Life can be tough at times when you are the only one at the beach , and the surf is ok ??
IT GOT WORSE , but the waves I got where Fast and I was stuffed after 1.5 hours , hard core 
even though on shore-ish ,
just thought I'd share the memory of the day ,a few surfer s came out later ,it was about 5 foot .but if you caught a wave all the way in ,it turned into a left hander ,so a good long ride ,I had my 8,7 placid ,but wish i had the 9,1 acid ,
At 5 foot I sh1t my pants .....especially off the wave . The white water kills me. I guess it depends in type of break. 5 foot at beach break is a nightmare for me. At a point type break maybe you can manage the exit and entry better
5ft is solid for me as well! I surf a lot of beach breaks and getting caught inside or coming off on the wrong section is scary at times.
What a buzz Tardy!
Don't worry I get hammered ...you have to wait for a break in the waves then paddle like hell ,but out behind that point its gnarly and thats where you take off ...
you have to push yourself to do it ,but the rewards of power waves are unreal ..I hit it again on the 9,11 insane and out run them .. ....rounded rails are so nice in choppy face waves ...
these are the days you really remember ...glassy ..barrels ,this is a different day ...
You're a lucky bugger Tardy.
You must've done some good sh1t in a previous life to be blessed with all of these good waves man! 
Yeew!!!
The tough rise to the occasion. And it is a tough job, but somebody has gotta do it!
Dreamy spot, minus the hard rocky bits that is.
