I was on the verge of purchasing a C4 X-Wing paddle last week but decided against it in the end, The price was right but I would have had to cut and glue it together myself so I decided to do some research before committing. I am most concerned about cutting the carbon fibre shaft.I have a background in woodworking and have a decent workshop and know my way around a good mix of tools. I still hesitate at stuffing up a paddle that costs nearly $400.
Looking at YouTube videos it seems that most set up a jig and use a dremel (something I don't have and weren't planning on getting) or similar to do the cut.Is it as straight forward as it looks? What are the pitfalls and traps I might get snared in?
Thanks in anticipation
Yeah hacksaw is fine. Put the off cut in the vice (lightly) support the other end and put some tape around it to stop any splinters. 
I wraped tape around it and used my 18v grinder.... easy
The just got some 24mm ( from memory) heatshrink slid it down the shaft. Araldite the T handle on then heatshrink. Hasnt skipped a beat in over 12 months.
There are no traps or pitfalls. Measure once cute twice... wait :p. Apparently you can get 5 minute araldite apart if you ever want to shorten ans save the handle.
Been looking at the Ke Nalu site. They have a good vid. Hacksaw. Use tape like Piros said. 
My tips:
- avoid shocks at all times during the process, and direct contact with metal pieces like the vice
- tape over the cut position, mark it with a pen, , and cut through it
- sand a bit but do not remove the tape (or re-apply them afterwards)
- align the handle perfectly, laying the paddle flat on the ground or a table works nicely, take your time.
- draw a line on both pieces of tape to mark the proper position
- put the heat-shrinkable collar on the shaft if needed (it is easy to forget it)
- apply glue (5mn epoxy glue, hot glue, ...) that can soften with heat if you need to remove the handle in the future.
- insert the pieces, using the drawn line to position them precisely
- wipe the excess glue and tape over the junction to prevent air bubbles to appear in the glue. Be careful, taping may rotate the pieces, check with the line (important!).
- after the glue is hardened (paddle vertical, handle down), sand if needed
- if needed, position the heat-shrinkable collar and heat it.
I'm trying to think of the last one I did, never really thought about there being any dangers.
Cut with hacksaw, carefully but no tape, held the paddle in one hand while I cut, no vice no clamps.
Araldite on shaft and handle, rested paddle with bend up I think, probably on a board, stuck on handle with no regard to it being critically straight.
Been using it daily for 18 months now, and if it's crooked I can't tell.
Guess I am a big woos - fear of the unknown.
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions!
What's the purpose of the heat shrink?
BTW I cut my Kialoa paddle down a few years ago then taped the handle on with duct tape, in case I wanted to make it shorter. I never did get around to cutting it shorter, or replacing the duct tape. It works just fine.
Select to expand quoteGorgo said..
What's the purpose of the heat shrink?
aesthetics, more durable than tape, and quite waterproof.
I had a small water leak on one of my paddle, I just re-heated a bit more the heat shrink tape, and no more leaks for years.
Select to expand quotecolas said..Gorgo said..
What's the purpose of the heat shrink?
aesthetics, more durable than tape, and quite waterproof.
I had a small water leak on one of my paddle, I just re-heated a bit more the heat shrink tape, and no more leaks for years.
My original paddle came with heat shrink over the joints. The heat shrink was applied before the epoxy went off.I don't particularly like the look of it but functionally if would be a good way to clean up any epoxy squeezed out of the joint.
Select to expand quoteGorgo said..
What's the purpose of the heat shrink?
BTW I cut my Kialoa paddle down a few years ago then taped the handle on with duct tape, in case I wanted to make it shorter. I never did get around to cutting it shorter, or replacing the duct tape. It works just fine.
Same Gorgo,
I haven't glued any of my paddles but just used duct tape. Never had a problem with them twisting or coming loose.
Definitely use the tape prior to cutting... much neater.
Go the C4 x-wing ... u wont regret it. Have cut them using a mitre box and a hacksaw... tape the paddle and cut and glue on a cool day ( hot day tend to push handle out) I used 5 min Arildite without a problem. Hold handle in and wipe excess away ,hold straight until set ( 5 mins approx) finish with heatshrink after its dry. Easy! All X-wings still going strong after 4 years. Great paddle!
" I still hesitate at stuffing up a paddle that costs nearly $400."
Ha, you should try it on a $4,000 skiff mast...
Select to expand quoteHelmy said..
" I still hesitate at stuffing up a paddle that costs nearly $400."
Ha, you should try it on a $4,000 skiff mast...
There's probably only one end of a paddle that you would cut.
But then again.....
