Super nice rippin going on. Perfect board for the wave. I have been hearing from friends, and have seen on the cams, some of the crazy crowded lineups up your way lately. But again you are finding some open spaces out there.
Thanks!
Yes, most peaks are insanely crowded nowadays in Seignosse...
I just started very early on a peak (first one in the water), and moved to new ones that appeared nearby (thanks for the tides) as soon as we were more than 4 at the peak. I roamed along a km of coastline during the session.
The only problem is that it is difficult to find tubes. Hollow peaks that consistently tubed were crowded, and I was afraid of being dropped in or having a deer-in-the-headlight surfer in my trajectory on these. So I enjoyed the more open face waves that peaked less reliably. And let's be honest, at my age (and my technique level), injuries happen so easily and are so hard to heal that I do not seek dangerous situations (tubes, floaters) anyway.
nice waves. I really like how you are connecting your turns and keeping the board moving.
