Allan, I would advise just going into very, very small waves and take a lot of ankle snappers to progressively have your body learn the surf dynamics while having fun rather than going out in big (for your level) conditions not taking waves. You can get hurt very easily (fingers torn by the leash, fin cuts, board hits, hitting the bottom) while "getting dumped". Learning the hard way is not very productive once you take into account the injury risk.
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Allan, I would advise just going into very, very small waves and take a lot of ankle snappers to progressively have your body learn the surf dynamics while having fun rather than going out in big (for your level) conditions not taking waves. You can get hurt very easily (fingers torn by the leash, fin cuts, board hits, hitting the bottom) while "getting dumped". Learning the hard way is not very productive once you take into account the injury risk.
I agree. My board has plenty of elbow and hip dents as I learned how not to do a late drop in. Jeeze, I ripped a rear quad fin out with my elbow once. Ended up floating in the water thinking I had a huge fin chop. Lucky the only outcome was a ripper bruise. Lost a PSH rear quad though! 
Sorry for me perhaps worrying some people. All of the rough stuff is now over and done. I am now very skilled at coming off from board in all sorts of ways and then getting back on very quicky. The trick is to pick the time to know where and when to go. Do not hang on until the bitter end. One of my early lessons was always pick where and when to jump. Nothing hurt along the way.
The big danger in my view is never have the board between you and the wave when deciding to bail (or on any other circumstance).
Saying the above, unfortunately where I am the surf is hardly ever easy. My main worry is belting the board with the paddle handle as that might cause some damage however my board seems as tough as nails. Very strong and rigid skin made from some sort of fibre composite material not simple epoxy. I doubt that my body could damage the board.
Anyway, I have not even gone out past the waves yet. That is my next outing. Paddling (standing up) past the waves and coming back in. That was the temptation last time but I forced myself to stay stationary wave after wave so as to learn to keep standing no matter what one is forced to endure - hence my response.
I would not even consider surfing a wave until I have mastered every other aspect including standing up no matter what the conditions.
P.S. I found that I can also sit on my board, legs facing forward (not straddling - legs not in the water) and simply paddle like a canoe if one gets tired.
