If I took for example a 9'3" x 32 140 litre board and compared turning ability to a shorter thicker board that is say 8'7 and also 140 litres and 32 wide or if I shaped up an 8 foot board and 32 wide very thick so it also came out at 140 litres ?b which one would turn easier ? If for argument sake they both have the same shape tail and I'm heavy enough to turn the 140 litres easily ?
Just trying to understand how they would all perform. If all took an average 3 foot wave with medium steep face so not too hollow and not to gutless just good medium power. ?
IE is it better to go longer and thinner or shorter and thicker ?
Basically it depends on the board speed.- at slow speeds, a long+narrow will bury the rail and get stuck, but a short+wide will be in full planing mode, having the energy to turn
- at high speed, you will have a hard time burying the rail to get enough hold for carving turns
So, the wave period is perhaps the most important factor, as it is proportional to the wave speed.
Plus the hollowness (depends on the bottom), as a hollower waves allows to get more angle and travle faster than the wave.For instance, at 100kg, I take my 7'6"x31"x120L for wave periods less than 7s, and above 7s:
- 7'11"x30"x119L wide-tailed for flat waves
- 7'10"x29"x112L pulled-in tail with L fins for tight turns in hollow waves
- 8'1x29"x114L pulled-in tail faster rocker with M fins for max speed and carve in hollow waves
If I took for example a 9'3" x 32 140 litre board and compared turning ability to a shorter thicker board that is say 8'7 and also 140 litres and 32 wide or if I shaped up an 8 foot board and 32 wide very thick so it also came out at 140 litres ?b which one would turn easier ? If for argument sake they both have the same shape tail and I'm heavy enough to turn the 140 litres easily ?
Just trying to understand how they would all perform. If all took an average 3 foot wave with medium steep face so not too hollow and not to gutless just good medium power. ?
IE is it better to go longer and thinner or shorter and thicker ?
I have an 8 foot jimmy Lewis super Frank and a 8'11 striker. When the waves are right the shorter board is more fun to surf. It turns quicker and rips harder. The striker on the other hand is like 90% of the fun but is better in most conditions. It paddles better and catches more waves. If I could only have one it would be the striker but I have more fun on the short board when conditions are right.
Colas says it perfectly.
That is why I have both a Smik Hipster 8'3 and a Smik Spitfire 8'6. Both around the same volume that suits me. The Hipster is shorter and rounder and loves fatter/less steep waves while the Spitfire loves faster, steeper waves.
If I was to have just one board I would pick the Spitfire as it is also amazing on smaller less steep waves - the funny thing is that the longer/narrower boards also accelerate faster - therefore are easier to catch waves. So as counter-intuitive as it seems they are also good on the smaller and less-steep waves.
I'm currently running my Spitfire on quads - make it super snappy and a touch faster. So much fun.
That said, for the past month I've been taking out the Hipster mostly, due to the run of small waves. It can turn a less than average day into a lot of fun and it can carry you through the flat spots.
Naturally the short board will be quicker and easier to turn .
But if you get a fat nose board over a narrow nose this may change things again
.
fins can change a board a lot ,if you have a board you like change fins you might be surprised how much difference it rides
picks up speed and turns better .I am happy with just 2 boards now ,for regular surfing .if its big I go big .
I am not a long boarder but it does have its advantages in small surf .its the glide and being able to keep going on a wave till it is nothing ,
If I took for example a 9'3" x 32 140 litre board and compared turning ability to a shorter thicker board that is say 8'7 and also 140 litres and 32 wide or if I shaped up an 8 foot board and 32 wide very thick so it also came out at 140 litres ?b which one would turn easier ? If for argument sake they both have the same shape tail and I'm heavy enough to turn the 140 litres easily ?
Just trying to understand how they would all perform. If all took an average 3 foot wave with medium steep face so not too hollow and not to gutless just good medium power. ?
IE is it better to go longer and thinner or shorter and thicker ?
Add in Fin Layout n Fins themselves as another factor.
What are you really wanting out of the board.,?
I have your happening at around160ltr x32" @ 8'6 , 9'0, 9'3 , 9'5 , 9'7 , 10'0 .
From Wakesurf fat big round tail, Log 50/50 tail, square, squash, round to Hipster swallow tail .
All - Single fin, 9" Fatbob, - drop in - hard bottom turn - pop backout -
you need a couple of things to turn a sup
-board speed
-move your feet
-use paddle leverage
-it is easier to move the board if you have some speed
- because of the width and length of most sups you need to move your feet, you need to get your back foot over the tail, alot of people are still trying to turn the board from the middle of the board,
Jarryd
Defs agree with Jarryd on getting to the back of the board and driving off the fins and tail/rail through turns.
What I don't do and wish I could is use my paddle for leverage. Advanced suppers on youtube are doing manouvres like shortboarders when they use they're paddles. Decades of prone surfing habits (no paddle just body) die hard!
So how do the breeze supsurfers, i.e. the great unwashed on more practical/?standard and less elite performance boards, use they're paddles and what sort of results are you getting?
What I don't do and wish I could is use my paddle for leverage. Advanced suppers on youtube are doing manouvres like shortboarders when they use they're paddles.
I see 4 ways to use the paddle:
[1] none, you could just as well ditch the paddle on takeoff. Often the case with ex prone surfers. Some people even just hold the paddle by one hand in the early years.
[2] as a balancing pole, using only its weight, not really connecting with the water surface. Often the case with ex windsurfers or kiters, used to have a force in their hands pulling them up to balance with.
[3] as a 3rd leg: basically leaning into turns just like a prone surfers, but gliding the paddle blade on the wave surface so that they have a support to commit to more radical body positions, like a walking cane or zimmer frame. That's what I do, for instance being able to really lean far outside the board into a turn, more that I would have been able to do without a paddle.
[4] as a paddle, digging the blade into the water and using it actively to provide a significant force. You see this high level SUP contestants, switching paddle between turns to use it optimally. I guess a kayak or surf ski experience helps.
I started with [2], now I am [3]. I don't like the feeling of [4] personally, but to each his own. (And I was doing [1] when foiling)
Great synopsis Colas and I'm definitely in the first group but I have found myself doing a number 2 (yeah ok bad pun intended ;-) by feathering the paddle on top of the wave for stability and it works well on later and steeper drops. Must be instinct or fluke cos I don't think I consciously put it there.
I keep thinking it'd be a good tool to use. I remember seeing an excellent portugese sup teacher showing a learning technique with a skateboard
[3] as a 3rd leg: basically leaning into turns just like a prone surfers, but gliding the paddle blade on the wave surface so that they have a support to commit to more radical body positions, like a walking cane or zimmer frame. That's what I do, for instance being able to really lean far outside the board into a turn, more that I would have been able to do without a paddle.
Stumbled across the perfect illustration of this by Vania Torres, the new ISA SUP champ:
Source: www.instagram.com/p/DQ5cC3NjISP/
Photo credit: Sean Evans (waterworkmedia)