Was anchored in the Susan River , off the Mary recently and saw this little Wharam sailing up the river. Gave a wave and then he dropped sail and rowed over.
Turns out he is a hawaiian fella, raced dinghies all his life and does deliveries and boat work back home.
Anyway he bought the Wharam on Russel Is and it came with an engine which he got rid off.
He has no motor, no toilet, no fridge, no GPS.
He only has paper charts and knows the coastline very well.
We overtook him yesterday as there wasnt much wind, but im guessing we will continue to see him up the coast.
He is one of these people not into tech which is really a breath of fresh air.
We cooked him some dinner and had a few beers after doing some work on another yacht that he found, which was totally his idea but interested me so i went along.
I took loads of tools, he took nearly nothing and had no shoes, yet clambered around this boat at low tide picking bits off which he actually just gave to me.
I was having trouble , weighted down with too many tools and in knee deep mud but he got all the sail slides for me which i really needed and he got the furler off which was a total score. Also got some really good clutches and the goose neck.
This is not something i would bother with but i guess this guy is used to this sort of thing as he is travelling around with minimal stuff and probably has to wait around a bit. Russel island had so many boats in the mangroves which i saw and he said he checked them all.
Weve met so many interesting people on this trip, but the most interesting is people like this guy using old school nav techniques and using basic human tools like EYES to get around.
Yesterday all our nav gear and the sounder decided to go tits up. 3 devices and the boats sounder. The handheld, ipad was flat - has no gps anyway , my samsung phone has decided it will not charge anymore(this has happened to EVERY samsung phone ive had) and the garmin gps has developed some disease also - i think since i tried to take the maps off the SD card to send onwards to someone, because now when i try to toggle to the map page, the whole unit powers off.
So it was binocs and marker spotting to travel between shoals to Burrum heads which we entered without issue. Actually this has been the main way to navigate through these shoals lately.
What a mad place Burrum Heads is. Got there at low tide and to the left of the entrance is like football fields of land where the water fills it at high tide. These tides are getting full on.
Levy - the hawaiian also gave me every chart for the Whole Australian East Coast as he had doubles of them. Some of them are old but theyre great to have as i dont have all.
In a nutshell this whole trip so far has taught me about my own anxiety which has certainly amplified while doing this trip.
There is so much to think about and it constantly changes in every place.
My abilities are there - this i know, but mentally is where i have trouble and this is the most important.
I constantly worry about EVERYTHING and am constantly checking the gear, the boat, cleaning etc that it leaves little time to relax.
This hasnt been the best experience for my partner, but she has been great at calming me down and im adapting.
Geez this stuff is hard. Its one thing to think about, plan this but doing it is another matter.
As much as we have seen some amazing places so far and will no doubt continue to do so, i cannot help but think how lucky we are in NSW actually for cruising.
We dont have to worry about massive tides and strong currents most places. Theres nice beaches and anchorages everywhere. Theres bolt holes and hidey holes everywhere. Theres not as much shoaling.
Im still YET to see some amazing beaches up here that are sheltered and awesome to hang out at which is really all i want. Im not into swimming around mud flats and so far that has been mostly what ive seen.
in 1500kms of coast ive seen or experienced nothing like beaches in JB, pittwater, syd harbour , central coast, port stephens etc. Magic places with clear water, nice beaches and beautiful anchorages. Normal tides and very little surprises regarding shallows.
Our little tophat has performed beautifully. We have 200L of water capacity and heaps of fuel and power onboard.. She sails well and always handles surprises well. we feel safe. Not comfortable sometimes but safe. Im grateful that we have a small boat for getting into places that many just cant go into as their boats are too big.
Im not complaining. Its good to experience this, but it really does make me appreciate what we've got down south.
It seems that to get to the good stuff up here, you need to travel pretty far, but once you get there - magic. BUT, youve got massive tides and currents to think of. The water is constantly moving - and fast. This means that for swimming, launching dinghies, even anchoring - things are a little more complex.
ahhh, the ponderings of the morning.
Plan to get to the kepples soon and hang for a few weeks, then come home. Looking forward to exploring the clarence and port stephens on the way home.
Great read! White sandy beaches up north? Head south to tassise or south oz! You can always sit on some white sand at Southbank in Brisbane if your missing it!
Don't get dissuaded by anyone mate!
You gone out there and you might do it hard sometimes but you are doing it.
You must be laughing!
Well, you should be.
You're doing great. We've done Sydney to Whitsundays in our 28 foot compass. Some of it has been tough and sometimes it has seemed more like a maintenance trip than a cruise.
The Keppels and all the islands thereafter are lovely. Boy, those tides are something - we had a couple of nights when we just could not get the anchor to stick.
We've had to take a few recovery days after the more exciting / testing experiences.
Best wishes to you and enjoy chilling on a sandy beach with clear blue water.
Cheers
Bristle
We did get a really great day at tangalooma . Well a little south of there. Clear water. Warm. Had a fire on the beach. Only ones there. I even pulled the Cooker off the boat and we cooked our dinner. Peel island was beautiful. The clearest water so far goes to....Swansea nsw Where I dove the hull in some pretty chilly water one morning.
yes south ace tassie is amazing and South oz. very nice. Actually always been my favourite places.
Im actually really looking forward to getting home in familiar waters.
Bristol was it you that had anchoring issues? I tell ya when I traded with sir g for a 27pound cqr it really hasn't budged. It's probably been the best decision made for this trip as we anchor everyday everywhere. Never in a marina, never on moorings either. The anchor is the mooring and really is one of the most important items.
currently in bundaberg. Had a beautiful sail today. 15 knots, beam reach, averaged 5 knots all the way and barely touched the sails. Probably the most comfortable sail of the trip. Flat water. Burrum heads was a lovely anchorage. Very shallow to get in in parts. We went in just after low tide. Sounder got to 4.2 feet.
really want to get out to Musgrave. So in a few days head to 1770 and wait for a window, or maybe carry on North to keppels and do on way home.
Met pheonix star in river heads. Lovely guy who drove us around to get food etc. we had lunch on Father's Day at the Urangan marina. I've met a few seabreezers and I'm grateful for that.
thanks Ian(pheonix star) for the info regarding fuelling at Urangan. We stopped there yesterday. Glad to say we are still on the Mooloolaba fuel. Sailed almost entirely the great sandys, to mooan Island and to Urangan, to burrum then to bundy.used no fuel. Great winds, light , but flat seas mean you go well. Always timing the tides.
Don't even think about going to musgrave and ladie Elliot! Just go now while your there on your own craft.it could be your only chance!
Stock up and relax out there it's really the only paradise left if your not going further north.
Yep, a few anchor issues - seems good now.
Anchored at sawmill beache on Whitsunday island - beautiful spot.
Bristle
Gday Steve
You are experiencing the classic trip let down - it is normal. All of the hassle of getting ready can be dealt with by you saying "Just wait till we get cruising". Then you go and guess what? There are still hassles - different ones but real ones nonetheless.
Expectations of finding the perfect spot will make it hard for any one place to live up to, so you should try to find the best of every pace you are in. Elliot heads has fabulous bird life, 1770 is great for walking around and swimming in the shallows, Pancake has a nice walking track to the lighthouse and beaches outside.
If the weather settles try to get to Musgrave. Our first trip there was a fizzer as we were blown out after a very nasty night so in your case I would recommend going there in calm conditions. Going to Musgrave from 1770 can be a pain if the soueaster is in. Although the trip is shorter the wind will be beam on (of further forward) and rougher than if you left from Bundy.
If you want nice beaches then hang on some more. Keppel can be great but remember, paradise will not be found further up the coast. It is where you are right now, if you meet the right people, and you are open to it. We were hoping to get to Hervey Bay in two weeks to float with the whales. This time of the year they will be having calves and flopping around off Coongul and Whathumba creek. Fabulous stuff. You are sailing right through this tremendous event just 30 miles off the starboard gunwale.
On my first trip I thought paradise would be found at the Whitsundays. I got bummed out there looking for the perfect spot. Turns out there was no perfect spot, just a spot I could either accept or not. Hill inlet was great in heavy winds which kept the bities down but hard to love in the light, the kids loved Cid Harbour with the crowds that might contain other kids boats. Keppel can be fabulous or a pain, depending on whether you like moving when the wind changes direction, or like an island with beautiful beaches AND walking tracks ( that is a rarity).
There won't be a perfect spot so don't rush to get there. Find the beauty wherever you are. As for feeling secure - I get it. For my Sydney Harbour and Pittwater based experience I couldn't feel really happy until putting the anchor down behind Shaw Island in the Whitsundays. After a few trips, doesn't matter. I have met people who don't like it when there are no sand flats, and others who cruise the Capricorn Bunker atolls and cross bars with impunity. It is your head you have to change, not the surroundings.
cheers
Phil
You are just starting to get to the better areas. We always make a beeline to Keppel and then work our way north. We are currently at Orpheus Island and it is totally awesome. This area runs rings round the Whitsundays. Water's clean, warm, less boats .
Our tracker and blog is below.
my.yb.tl/jode7/#
i totally agree kankama. you have a great straight up way of putting things.
Have really enjoyed some walks on route. Best one was Lauriton so far. THen lake mcKenzie on Fraser .
makes sense about LMI from bundy. Although currently theres so many northerly days - well forecast ones anyway. some of the time out there the winds been opposite to the forecast.
Right up in Bundy town tonight. Many said it was too far , or dont do it and get a bus from the heads. Glad i didnt listen. This place is super convenient.
Select to expand quoteJode5 said..
You are just starting to get to the better areas. We always make a beeline to Keppel and then work our way north. We are currently at Orpheus Island and it is totally awesome. This area runs rings round the Whitsundays. Water's clean, warm, less boats .
Our tracker and blog is below.
my.yb.tl/jode7/#
Hey John, Bowden Island and then on to the Frankland Islands is highly recommended.
Bowden Island is very special place. The whole island with it's dry sand spit with National Parks pic nic shelter is probably less than 2 acres in area and not often visited.
It is a rock peak covered in lush,dense vegetation.
The anchorage is on the north side. Shell, sand and coral.
The facilities are ideally suited to Banyans, Splicing the Main Brace, beach BBQs and moonlight sonatas. Overnight camping is not permitted and flaking out on the beach is no excuse for misbehaviour.
WARNING:- All activities of visitors are subject to video and photo surveillance by the visitors and may even be published on the internet.
End of Rational Parks Bulletin...
Select to expand quoteSectorsteve said..
i totally agree kankama. you have a great straight up way of putting things.
Have really enjoyed some walks on route. Best one was Lauriton so far. THen lake mcKenzie on Fraser .
makes sense about LMI from bundy. Although currently theres so many northerly days - well forecast ones anyway. some of the time out there the winds been opposite to the forecast.
Right up in Bundy town tonight. Many said it was too far , or dont do it and get a bus from the heads. Glad i didnt listen. This place is super convenient.
Welcome to Bundaberg Steve and the beautiful Burnett River.
There is water available at the public pontoon about 400m upstream of the Rower's Club and, if not obstructed by dinghies, you can tie up for a few hours. Directly south of there by two blocks is IGA and it's only a short stagger home from the Old Bundy Tavern. A block east you will see Wilson's Industrial Sales where you will find the least expensive s/s nuts and bolts you are likely to come across.
If you need any more info on Bundy, holler!!!
