I want to pull my water pump apart. It wasn't pumping today. I haven't ruled out belt tension yet. I was able to turn the pump by hand then when I ran the motor it started pumping again.
The seacock coming out of the saildrive is seized.
I don't want to end up like this guy: www.myhanse.com/raw-water-inlet-stopcock_topic8221_page1.html
Do I have to slip the boat? Do I dare risk applying some mechanical advantage to the seacock tap or is that really asking for a catastrophe?
Select to expand quoteJonE said..
Do I have to slip the boat? Do I dare risk applying some mechanical advantage to the seacock tap or is that really asking for a catastrophe?
Can you have another section of hose, the same diameter, with a bung, ready to slip over the outlet of the seacock so that when you remove the hose to the pump you can slip this on??
Preferably with the end heated, to make it soft, so that it slips on easily!!
I wouldn't apply any extra force to the seacock while in the water!!
It is a bit thrilling to have an open thru hull while afloat but not terrifying. During the summer months I had a intake water blockage, took the hose off no water, couldn't poke a wire successfully through owing to a 90 bend thru hull to sea cock so I took the sea cock off with some trepidation, still no water, then I poked the wire into the the thu hull penetration. A 25mm spout of water maybe 70mm high erupted. a cheap thrill really, then I screwed the sea cock back on with out any issue. A good amount of water does enter the vessel but very little pressure. You could easily plug the hose to work on the pump or if the hose is long enough just raise it above the waterline
Sd 20 seawater taps are bad design the crustations build up on the threads and jam them the more you try to shut them the more they lock up . You will be able to remove them and replace them in the water with ball valves if you don,t panic about the gush of water, other wise haul the boat and change. My taps seize up regularly so i remove them and soak them in acid to remove crustations from threads, i will then grease the threads and refit, this will last a while and they will seize again . i will change to ball taps next haul. If i have to do pump work i remove the hose from the pump end and lift it above the water level or plug it, don't use any clamps on you hose as this will break the crustation of in side and block hose ports or coolers, I clean the in side of the hoses as part of my haul out maintenance.
Select to expand quotewoko said..
It is a bit thrilling to have an open thru hull while afloat but not terrifying. During the summer months I had a intake water blockage, took the hose off no water, couldn't poke a wire successfully through owing to a 90 bend thru hull to sea cock so I took the sea cock off with some trepidation, still no water, then I poked the wire into the the thu hull penetration. A 25mm spout of water maybe 70mm high erupted. a cheap thrill really, then I screwed the sea cock back on with out any issue. A good amount of water does enter the vessel but very little pressure. You could easily plug the hose to work on the pump or if the hose is long enough just raise it above the waterline
Depends on how deep in the water the intake is. A two inch valve down in a trawler hull is fairly exciting!
Select to expand quotegrich62 said..
don't use any clamps on you hose as this will break the crustation of in side and block hose ports or coolers,
I knew there wouldn't be a free lunch with the mole-grips. I take it this means be gentle with the hose whatever I do with it?
Does the sea-cock assembly come out of the saildrive reliably? There's no chance of it just disintegrating as I twist it off leaving me right in the s**t is there?
Select to expand quoteJonE said..grich62 said..
don't use any clamps on you hose as this will break the crustation of in side and block hose ports or coolers,
I knew there wouldn't be a free lunch with the mole-grips. I take it this means be gentle with the hose whatever I do with it?
Does the sea-cock assembly come out of the saildrive reliably? There's no chance of it just disintegrating as I twist it off leaving me right in the s**t is there?
If you have kept up with your anoides replacement it should come out ok, both mine came out and in easy if you are worried don't do it untill haul out, you can buy heater hose plugs or short hose pluged to cap them off if you have to block it for any reason
16mm yeah?
so pull the hose off the stopcock end and cap the stopcock with one of these? Or just some garden hose kinked over at the top end and jubilee clip it on..? As Lazz suggested - maybe dip the end in a cup of hot water first.
www.autolinkparts.com.au/water-16mm-rubber-block-off-blank-plugs-heater-hos
Soft wooden tapers should be standard issue on all vessels preferably tied close to each through hull penetration. I remember a yachting monthly test where they belted a sea cock of with a sledgehammer and tested various at hand materials to stem the flow, potato or carrot actually worked better than wooden plug as it more readily took on a non round shape of an out of round through hull
Expensive - yes, but i thought well worth it. Even having timber plugs ready at every seacock, i bought them thinking a couple of these in the onboard tool kit would look after any hull/fitting breaches where a timber plug might not. I hope never to need them of course - but i reckon they'll do the job well (the smaller red one is as functional as the larger one)
