The anti slip on my Sonata is the same as the photo below which I am pretty happy with anti slip wise but have no idea what paint to use to freshen it up. Is that moulded in or all paint?
Actually I want to lighten the colour as well.
Thanks.
Hmmm, molded into the gelcoat I'd guess. Planetray had a long thread about Kiwigrip on his Soling, might be worth a read.
Opps, not Planetray, Planeray... 
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Kiwigrip-update
I have the same Non Slip decks . I recon its def molded in to the deck and its orig gel coat . I was thinking the same, mine needs paining as well . i think maybe kiwi grip with a standard roller or brush may be the go ?
Having just done my decks with the same pattern, with a whole lot less paint than yours. Paint will fill the valleys of texture and it will not have grip. I saw this when I over painted my flat areas before cutting in with Kiwi.
Firstly you have to clean it properly, s/s wire brush, or power sander, latter will take out the grip as well.
2 options
1)Paint with a texture additive in or over the fresh paint (sInca sand, crushed nut shells)
2) Kiwigrip, it needs to be put on with special roller or you won't have any grip, you can put on thinner, some pattern of existing will show, but the kiwi gives the grip.
Your deck looks fine, save some time/money and go sailing
Keep in mind that once you have committed to either painting or kiwigrip you won't really be able to go back. They will fill the crevices in the gel coat finish, and it's near impossible to remove completely once it's done. Both products can eventually wear down to the top of the gel coat which will start to show through. Not a great look if you've changed the color. You'll also have to repaint to keep it good, so factor this in for future maintenance too.
Considering the age of a Sonata, that deck looks to be in great condition. I agree with Cabron, save yourself the trouble.
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
I have the same Non Slip decks . I recon its def molded in to the deck and its orig gel coat . I was thinking the same, mine needs paining as well . i think maybe kiwi grip with a standard roller or brush may be the go ?
FYR when collecting my boat yesterday from shipyard I enquired how they do it .( lots of power boats have this nonslip)
" Use two part expoxy , thin right down, use foam roller and brush and apply two very light coats." I forgot to ask what brand of paint.
I'd love to know what is used to mould the original non-skid. Whatever it is, it's a common pattern on Aust made boats.
Select to expand quotecrewloose said..
I'd love to know what is used to mould the original non-skid. Whatever it is, it's a common pattern on Aust made boats.
Foam Core Matt I believe was cut out and placed onto the mould or plug before the gel coat and glassing was applied.
I would only use 2 pack paint with glass beads or grit if overcoating this style of nonskid, kiwigrip would need large volumes to fill the voids to make the kiwi grip texture required.
Having some experience with painting (including textured surfaces but admittedly not on boats) I would use very very light rolling with a foam roller. I would even consider rolling on with one roller and running a drier foam roller over the top to remove excessive paint build up. Do as many coats as necessary..
Select to expand quoteBananabender said..
FYR when collecting my boat yesterday from shipyard I enquired how they do it .( lots of power boats have this nonslip)
" Use two part expoxy , thin right down, use foam roller and brush and apply two very light coats." I forgot to ask what brand of paint.
Any chance you can still find out ?
Reason it would be of interest is that I think most Epoxy paints are not able to handle sun exposure (ie. topcoat).
Select to expand quoteKarsten said..Bananabender said..
FYR when collecting my boat yesterday from shipyard I enquired how they do it .( lots of power boats have this nonslip)
" Use two part expoxy , thin right down, use foam roller and brush and apply two very light coats." I forgot to ask what brand of paint.
Any chance you can still find out ?
Reason it would be of interest is that I think most Epoxy paints are not able to handle sun exposure (ie. topcoat).
Oh hell , Now I'm not sure it he said two part or two part epoxy.
He's sending me some pics of boat out of water next week and I'll ask him.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..crewloose said..
I'd love to know what is used to mould the original non-skid. Whatever it is, it's a common pattern on Aust made boats.
Foam Core Matt I believe was cut out and placed onto the mould or plug before the gel coat and glassing was applied.
I would only use 2 pack paint with glass beads or grit if overcoating this style of nonskid, kiwigrip would need large volumes to fill the voids to make the kiwi grip texture required.
Good info, thanks southace. I had scoured Gibco data looking for clues, finding none.
I'm subsequently thinking that the original weave pattern is just a very weighty e-glass woven roving, like 800g+, that has been tacked onto the plug without saturating. I've never eyeballed a glass weave that coarse..
Select to expand quotecrewloose said..
I'm subsequently thinking that the original weave pattern is just a very weighty e-glass woven roving, like 800g+, that has been tacked onto the plug without saturating. I've never eyeballed a glass weave that coarse..
I remember when I was a wee lass working in the boat yard cutting the core Matt out and sticking it in the mould or on the plug before waxing and gel coat. It was a textured white 3 mil foam, also used for bulking up large hull sections between laminates.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..crewloose said..
I'm subsequently thinking that the original weave pattern is just a very weighty e-glass woven roving, like 800g+, that has been tacked onto the plug without saturating. I've never eyeballed a glass weave that coarse..
I remember when I was a wee lass working in the boat yard cutting the core Matt out and sticking it in the mould or on the plug before waxing and gel coat. It was a textured white 3 mil foam, also used for bulking up large hull sections between laminates.
Hmm.. okay that gets me closer. Searching 'lantor coremat 3mm'..
BB it's the same texture on my Top Hat. It's in the mould. The previous owner decided the baby blue of the original gel coat needed tidying up, so he painted it with a light grey. Over the year, the light grey has become blotchy and worn, whilst the baby blue beneath it looks almost as good as new. They're right, once you start painting, you're going to have to repaint at some stage.
Select to expand quoteMichaelR said..
BB it's the same texture on my Top Hat. It's in the mould. The previous owner decided the baby blue of the original gel coat needed tidying up, so he painted it with a light grey. Over the year, the light grey has become blotchy and worn, whilst the baby blue beneath it looks almost as good as new. They're right, once you start painting, you're going to have to repaint at some stage.
Wise advice, thanks
HI BB,
The gelcoat texture come off the mould just like that when the boat is new.
For re coating, surface prep is key. 90% preparing a surface, 10% painting it. Need to make it is super clean, wash with degreaser/dry, then wax/grease remove a couple of times.
Mask up the gloss areas well with 2 layers of green 3M tape.
Need to sand hard, almost removing most of the texture to get the the bottom of the valleys as best as possible (start with 60 grit on an orbital (Festool Rotex) and can finish with 80 grit if want). Hand sand edges and hard to get places.
Check masking. Roll Epoxy primer (International Interprotect) 3 coats. Let harden.
Prep primer with 120 grit and make sure there is no gloss. Will be much quicker than the first sand up.
Re-mask and roll top coat. From here Marine Enamel (Interdeck) is ok but the hard yards are done, I'd go for a 2 part linear urethane (AWLGrip 1000) - 2-3 coats. If you use 2 pac gloss, flattening agent will need to be added (about 40%) and non-slip particles (Intergrip).
Either top coat that is used, be sure to lightly sprinkle some dry non-slip from a height for extra grip after each coat whilst the paint is wet.
Good luck!
Select to expand quoteboatbroke said..
HI BB,
The gelcoat texture come off the mould just like that when the boat is new.
For re coating, surface prep is key. 90% preparing a surface, 10% painting it. Need to make it is super clean, wash with degreaser/dry, then wax/grease remove a couple of times.
Mask up the gloss areas well with 2 layers of green 3M tape.
Need to sand hard, almost removing most of the texture to get the the bottom of the valleys as best as possible (start with 60 grit on an orbital (Festool Rotex) and can finish with 80 grit if want). Hand sand edges and hard to get places.
Check masking. Roll Epoxy primer (International Interprotect) 3 coats. Let harden.
Prep primer with 120 grit and make sure there is no gloss. Will be much quicker than the first sand up.
Re-mask and roll top coat. From here Marine Enamel (Interdeck) is ok but the hard yards are done, I'd go for a 2 part linear urethane (AWLGrip 1000) - 2-3 coats. If you use 2 pac gloss, flattening agent will need to be added (about 40%) and non-slip particles (Intergrip).
Either top coat that is used, be sure to lightly sprinkle some dry non-slip from a height for extra grip after each coat whilst the paint is wet.
Good luck!
Thanks, appreciate and will save for next boat . All I wanted to do is freshen the paint up in a couple of places but on advice above from Michael R I'll leave it. The texture is good. Just had boat professionally antifouled, acid washed and hull polished and waxed . He was amazed gelcoat on hull as new still except for a couple of scrapes.
Boat spent most of 33 years under cover when not in water with original owner.
Blotches on hull water reflection
