Hi Everyone, Im seeking advice from experienced timber boat people, I have removed my H28 (NZ built) rudder blade for inspection and stripped it back to bare timber, Its NZ Kaurie I think. It appears in good condition. What preparation should I use before repainting and reinstalling. The bronze pintals were set in to the blade slightly and were faired with epoxy to blade level, I found some water ingress under these, Do I need to refair the pintals or leave them as is.
My intentions are to use penitrating epoxy then primer ect. before antifouling again, the is no fiberglass on this rudder.
If water got in under the pintles so can teredo worms. I advise you thoruoghly check for any worm infestation and cut it out if there is any.
Worms only need a pinhole in paint or any protective coating to get in.
Coating with Everdure or Wattyl Timber preserver (both are just thinned out epoxy resin) is minimal treatment for it. Complete sealing with fiberglass is a good idea. That can take a substantial bump without breaching the integrity of the sealing.
If you trawl back through the threads and find "Rotten Rudder" you will see what I had to do.
Here is the link to it. www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Rotten-Rudder
WOW Cisco what a job!
The dilema is weather to glass or not to glass, I have received mixed advice about this, some say once you use glass the water will eventually get under the skin and rot will occur. The rudder is pushing 40 years old and still in good nik.
I can see the practical side of glassing in detering worm though.
I would like to do the best job I can as I have removed the rudder while the boat is still in the water and have the rudder in the shed which gives no time pressures as it would with the boat on the slips.
Thanks for your advice.
Select to expand quotelittlelewie said..
WOW Cisco what a job!
The dilema is weather to glass or not to glass, I have received mixed advice about this, some say once you use glass the water will eventually get under the skin and rot will occur. The rudder is pushing 40 years old and still in good nik.
I can see the practical side of glassing in detering worm though.
I would like to do the best job I can as I have removed the rudder while the boat is still in the water and have the rudder in the shed which gives no time pressures as it would with the boat on the slips.
Thanks for your advice.
Definitely not fiberglass. Use epoxy and fiberglass cloth or Dynel.
New Zealand kauri is a great timber. If it's not rotton under the pintles dry it out using acetone/sun/heat then coat with timber sealer / undercoat and re fasten and fair pintles using fixtech 15 should be good for another 20 years.
Yes Southace, I feel that its in such good condition and after 40 od years in salt water I will let it dry out a little and hit it with penitrating epoxy before the usual primer and antifoul.
Thanks Ramona and Southace for your input.
If you suspect any teredo activity, bury the entire rudder blade in fresh water for a week and then dry out and treat.
Fresh water kills the little blighters, usually in about three days after immersion.
I really think ciscio kid is the only one that had worms although I could be wrong!
Select to expand quotelittlelewie said..
Yes Southace, I feel that its in such good condition and after 40 od years in salt water I will let it dry out a little and hit it with penitrating epoxy before the usual primer and antifoul.
Thanks Ramona and Southace for your input.
Another thing to think about is your bronze pintles.
If they are "pink" like mine were, they are buggered. The zinc or tin has leached out of them and the bronze is now lacking original strength and quite brittle.
I had to refabricate my pintles from stainless steel. The cost of getting new bronze ones made is unthinkable. Some may say that stainless will not last but I think they will outlive me and that is what it is all about.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I really think ciscio kid is the only one that had worms although I could be wrong!
Being 67 years old, I am no longer the Cisco "Kid".
I have had worms before, the cure for which is non prescription tablets from the pharmacy. Works a treat.
As for Second Wind being the only yacht that ever got worm infestation, if it were true it would be recorded in the Guiness Book of Records.
What is your point??
Select to expand quotelittlelewie said..
Yes Southace, I feel that its in such good condition and after 40 od years in salt water I will let it dry out a little and hit it with penitrating epoxy before the usual primer and antifoul.
Thanks Ramona and Southace for your input.
The rudder is in your shed. If your going to coat it in epoxy then it seems a waste not to spend an extra $10 for some 6 ounce cloth. How far penetrating epoxy actually penetrates versus unthinned epoxy is open for debate. I think the biocides in evedure have been missing for 20 years or so. One layer of cloth followed by a coat of epoxy with microballoons will provide better abrasion resistance than just paint. Sand that smooth then a couple of coats of special purpose grey primer and antifoul.
The West system webpage has plenty of info on the penetrating side of epoxy or lack of it.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..littlelewie said..
Yes Southace, I feel that its in such good condition and after 40 od years in salt water I will let it dry out a little and hit it with penitrating epoxy before the usual primer and antifoul.
Thanks Ramona and Southace for your input.
The rudder is in your shed. If your going to coat it in epoxy then it seems a waste not to spend an extra $10 for some 6 ounce cloth. How far penetrating epoxy actually penetrates versus unthinned epoxy is open for debate. I think the biocides in evedure have been missing for 20 years or so. One layer of cloth followed by a coat of epoxy with microballoons will provide better abrasion resistance than just paint. Sand that smooth then a couple of coats of special purpose grey primer and antifoul.
The West system webpage has plenty of info on the penetrating side of epoxy or lack of it.
+!
