yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/custom-cord-32/221271
I am having a look at this boat on Saturday.
Built by Syd Fisher.
A couple of issues I may have are.
The extra large headsail. What are the difficulties sailing with it?
All the headsails are hanked. Will I need to change this and the costs involved?
we run hanked sails on pagan the big one is 38 M other than being a bastard to put away its fine and I prefer them to foils (a mess on the deck ) or furlers( poor shape and unable to change in a real blow ) , sail changes can be quite fast the record while training is held by goat man at 28seconds but an average sail change is about a minute trim to trim
I think we're getting a bit carried away with the number one Genoa in regard to its size. Sure it's big but no bigger than what was the norm back in the seventies/eighties. Very powerful.
Below is picture of the Mylar 1 I had on the Bounty. There's no issues using it provided you know how to trim and when to drop it.
You will see in my pic. Main luff is backwinding and the tiller is pulled right into my gut ( weatherhelm) and we are starting to go sideways. I was waiting for plane to finish taking pictures. The next shows crewman waiting to change headsails . We used a forestay foil.
Edit ; just saw boty. Yep we would push down forward hatch ,pain to re bag down below even though forepeak was one large sailbin.
Select to expand quoteBundeenabuoy said..
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/custom-cord-32/221271
I am having a look at this boat on Saturday.
Built by Syd Fisher.
A couple of issues I may have are.
The extra large headsail. What are the difficulties sailing with it?
All the headsails are hanked. Will I need to change this and the costs involved?
Local bloke is selling an excellent furler system off a 32 footer for 2 grand. I doubt whether you could use that No1 without modifying it though it looks full hoist. I have a brand new light No1 that I can not use unless I remove the drum and just use the foil. Changing a headsail with a foil solo is an absolute pain even at the mooring. Changing a headsail with hanks solo is not easy but do able, you just get a bit wet! If you change to a furler you will mostly be sailing with a No2. To fully utilize this boats headsails stick with the hanks and have a crew.
HI Bundeenaboy,
I like hanked headsails. They drop when they are supposed to, don't pull out of tracks, don't jam, a failure of one hank is no big deal and are easy and quick to service.
The only negative is already mentioned, ease of use when short handed as compared to a furler.
Edit: Oh, and not as good for doing peels from one headsail to another as compared to a tuff luff.
Just out of interest, how do you do a change.
Can you pre-hank the new sail under the old one, ready for a quick hoist once the old one is down and cleared off the forestay?
Did they ever have twin, side by side, forestays? (although I can see issues with hanks fouling on each other unless the stays have a very wide separation)
Foils are great if you're fully crewed and often doing peel headsail changes.
Furlers are great if you almost never change headsail.
For most other situations hanks are the way to go, They stay in place when you drop the heady on the deck, hoist and drop easily without a big crew, and in my experience are more durable/foolproof than a bolt rope.
The drawback is having to fold sails, on smallish boats that's not such an ordeal. A cruising solution that I've seen, and like, is having a sail that works while the sail is hanked on, so you can leave (probably a #2 or #3) on, and just unzip the sail and hoist.
Something like this - www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88924&d=1411948737
Select to expand quoteTamble said..
Just out of interest, how do you do a change.
Can you pre-hank the new sail under the old one, ready for a quick hoist once the old one is down and cleared off the forestay?
Did they ever have twin, side by side, forestays? (although I can see issues with hanks fouling on each other unless the stays have a very wide separation)
Some boats used to have twin head stays for this purpose, I can't see it working with a furler. There are ways to minimise time in a headsail change, including doing some pre hanking.
Select to expand quoteAll@Sea said..Tamble said..
Just out of interest, how do you do a change.
Can you pre-hank the new sail under the old one, ready for a quick hoist once the old one is down and cleared off the forestay?
Did they ever have twin, side by side, forestays? (although I can see issues with hanks fouling on each other unless the stays have a very wide separation)
Some boats used to have twin head stays for this purpose, I can't see it working with a furler. There are ways to minimise time in a headsail change, including doing some pre hanking.
Wichard Hanks , especially with frozen fingers
Select to expand quoteBundeenabuoy said..
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/custom-cord-32/221271
I am having a look at this boat on Saturday.
Built by Syd Fisher.
A couple of issues I may have are.
The extra large headsail. What are the difficulties sailing with it?
All the headsails are hanked. Will I need to change this and the costs involved?
The main difficulty sailing with a large headsail is that tacks are slower compared to a sail with a shorter foot, as there is more distance from one clew attachment point on deck to the corresponding point on the other side. Large overlapping headsails all do this.
Whether you "Need" to change to a furler depends on many things,including your budget. Most sailmakers will be happy to quote on converting from hanks to furler; cost is usually per metre of luff so it only makes sense if the base sail is in good enough condition to start with. Will a furler make you a better racer? Probably not, but they are nice to have when out for a lazy sail. It's hard to get true deck-sweeping size with a furling sail though, and as Ramona mentioned you'll likely lose some length from the luff.
Where during racing a furler does make a difference I feel is when a kite is up and you've done a few gybes, and then need to get the headsail up again. Without a furler you need to ensure headsail sheets etc are in the correct places and on the right side before you rehoist; this is negated when the headsail is furled.
Contrary to popular belief, half furling your lightweight bigger sails does not magically turn them into bulletproof #4 units.... 
Select to expand quoteTamble said..
Just out of interest, how do you do a change.
Can you pre-hank the new sail under the old one, ready for a quick hoist once the old one is down and cleared off the forestay?
Did they ever have twin, side by side, forestays? (although I can see issues with hanks fouling on each other unless the stays have a very wide separation)
We used to have a type of twin forestay. Over the wire forestay was a aluminium twin track. The track on the forestay ended abut 60cm from the bottom. All the slides on the headsails we stored on a "magazine" that had the same twin track profile as the one on the forestay and just clipped into the gap at the bottom of the forestay. When hoisting the sails the slides on the sail just slid up the magazine and onto the forestay. Dropping the sail was the same in reverse. Once down you just had to tie the slides off so they didn't slip off the magazine and you would pack the sail away in it's bag with magazine attached. I think from memory this set up was called "Kayzee" or something similar but can't be certain.
Changing headsails mid race involved removing the current (empty) magazine. Inserting the (full) magazine of the new sail and hoisting. Once up and sheeted, the original sail was dropped onto the (now empty) magazine and removing it from the forestay to be stowed away.
The system worked quite well. The compromise was around folding the sails. Having the slides still stored on the magazine didn't make for the neatest fold.
This system has since been removed (can't recall why) and we now just have a regulation forestay with hanked headsails. Personally I quite like the hanks for their simplicity, ease of use and having less to go wrong. As some have noted it is still possible to effect a fairly quick sail change with hanks. We tend to get the new sail up and hanked on in between two hanks of the sail in use and sheets ready to go. Drop the existing sail and remove the hanks and swap the halyard to the new sail. Then up she goes. With a bit of practice the crew gets quite efficient with this process.
The main advantage of hanks is most of the sail stays on the boat when you drop it! This boat looks like it has a nice array of headsails meant for hanks only. If you factored in the cost of sail modifications and a new headsail furler fitting then you might be better of looking at a boat already setup for your needs.
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/sparkman-stephens-36-1983/232946
It is going to be easy to spend that extra 5 grand on that Cord 32 if you go to a furler!
The big advantage of a furler is the ability to get going easily and quickly. I can leave my front door and drop my mooring in about 15 minutes. If I had to drag out a headsail and install. After I had procrastinated on which one to use! Then do a headsail change half way down the river before I get to the entrance, I might be reluctant to even go sailing. Having the headsail furled when picking up a mooring in a fresh breeze is way better than stepping over a headsail in a pile on the foredeck!
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
The main advantage of hanks is most of the sail stays on the boat when you drop it! This boat looks like it has a nice array of headsails meant for hanks only. If you factored in the cost of sail modifications and a new headsail furler fitting then you might be better of looking at a boat already setup for your needs.
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/sparkman-stephens-36-1983/232946
It is going to be easy to spend that extra 5 grand on that Cord 32 if you go to a furler!
The big advantage of a furler is the ability to get going easily and quickly. I can leave my front door and drop my mooring in about 15 minutes. If I had to drag out a headsail and install. After I had procrastinated on which one to use! Then do a headsail change half way down the river before I get to the entrance, I might be reluctant to even go sailing. Having the headsail furled when picking up a mooring in a fresh breeze is way better than stepping over a headsail in a pile on the foredeck!
This looks good, asking $27500
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/duncanson-30-fast-cruiser/235367
Select to expand quoteBundeenabuoy said..
This looks good, asking $27500
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/duncanson-30-fast-cruiser/235367
Running backstays and a lifting keel.
Select to expand quoteBundeenabuoy said..Ramona said..
The main advantage of hanks is most of the sail stays on the boat when you drop it! This boat looks like it has a nice array of headsails meant for hanks only. If you factored in the cost of sail modifications and a new headsail furler fitting then you might be better of looking at a boat already setup for your needs.
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/sparkman-stephens-36-1983/232946
It is going to be easy to spend that extra 5 grand on that Cord 32 if you go to a furler!
The big advantage of a furler is the ability to get going easily and quickly. I can leave my front door and drop my mooring in about 15 minutes. If I had to drag out a headsail and install. After I had procrastinated on which one to use! Then do a headsail change half way down the river before I get to the entrance, I might be reluctant to even go sailing. Having the headsail furled when picking up a mooring in a fresh breeze is way better than stepping over a headsail in a pile on the foredeck!
This looks good, asking $27500
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/duncanson-30-fast-cruiser/235367
WOW!
This is exactly what I want. I wonder if they would consider swapping my Endeavour 26 for it 
Select to expand quotevalo said..Bundeenabuoy said..Ramona said..
The main advantage of hanks is most of the sail stays on the boat when you drop it! This boat looks like it has a nice array of headsails meant for hanks only. If you factored in the cost of sail modifications and a new headsail furler fitting then you might be better of looking at a boat already setup for your needs.
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/sparkman-stephens-36-1983/232946
It is going to be easy to spend that extra 5 grand on that Cord 32 if you go to a furler!
The big advantage of a furler is the ability to get going easily and quickly. I can leave my front door and drop my mooring in about 15 minutes. If I had to drag out a headsail and install. After I had procrastinated on which one to use! Then do a headsail change half way down the river before I get to the entrance, I might be reluctant to even go sailing. Having the headsail furled when picking up a mooring in a fresh breeze is way better than stepping over a headsail in a pile on the foredeck!
This looks good, asking $27500
yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sail-monohulls/duncanson-30-fast-cruiser/235367
WOW!
This is exactly what I want. I wonder if they would consider swapping my Endeavour 26 for it
Mmm, stainless keel bolts, with stainless nuts, sitting in bilge water. Would frighten me, but at least there is a stub keel, so the forces are a bit less. The S&S design build I like, has bronze keel bolts.
I personally love hanked head sails. Mainly because they are guaranteed to come down fast when you want them down. When I took off the furler on my old Mottle 33 I got the sail on it re cut to put some depth in it. (For those who dont know head sails on furlers are usually cut flat to roll up nicely but no good for performance).
With the bulk of the furler gone and the new shape the boat sailed massively better upwind. The performance boost more than compensated for a delay sometimes between stowing the #1 and getting #2 up or vice versa. We didnt have two fore stays. You get better at sailing while over powered too while delaying going to the #2. So if you want to win races - use hanked head sails. They are a pain to stow but better than a jammed furler in a blow.
It's worth reading the reviews on equiptment used in the recent Golden Globe round the world race where competitors could use either hanked sails or furlers.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
It's worth reading the reviews on equiptment used in the recent Golden Globe round the world race where competitors could use either hanked sails or furlers.
I would love to read them, can you point me to where they are, thanks Ramona.
Select to expand quoteTrek said..Ramona said..
It's worth reading the reviews on equiptment used in the recent Golden Globe round the world race where competitors could use either hanked sails or furlers.
I would love to read them, can you point me to where they are, thanks Ramona.
The British yachting magazine Yachting World had a good review but the online version is not bad either.
www.yachtingworld.com/features/2018-19-golden-globe-race-lessons-learned-120622
Select to expand quoteTrek said..
I personally love hanked head sails. Mainly because they are guaranteed to come down fast when you want them down. They are a pain to stow but better than a jammed furler in a blow.
The "guaranteed" getting down is a good one. I was once on a Bavaria 42 being sailed back from the Whitsundays when we really struggled a long time to get the big jib down - it was in a dual-channel foil. So not a fan of foils.
Trek, your opinion please (and of course anyone else): for a non-racing setup with a hanked #1 and a #3 (plus a tiny storm jib), how practical would it be to bundle up a dropped #1 and tie it down in a long sausage on the foredeck, so you don't have to cart the heavy, wet thing down below?
Only stowing it in those rare occasions where you expect 40kt+.
Select to expand quoteKarsten said..Trek said..
I personally love hanked head sails. Mainly because they are guaranteed to come down fast when you want them down. They are a pain to stow but better than a jammed furler in a blow.
The "guaranteed" getting down is a good one. I was once on a Bavaria 42 being sailed back from the Whitsundays when we really struggled a long time to get the big jib down - it was in a dual-channel foil. So not a fan of foils.
Trek, your opinion please (and of course anyone else): for a non-racing setup with a hanked #1 and a #3 (plus a tiny storm jib), how practical would it be to bundle up a dropped #1 and tie it down in a long sausage on the foredeck, so you don't have to cart the heavy, wet thing down below?
Only stowing it in those rare occasions where you expect 40kt+.
A big number one is difficult to roll on a foredeck, I always semi flake it and have a long bungy cord threaded through the toe rail with clips like a ute tonneau cover to loop over and tie back against the toerail . The bungy loops clips at rest on the top lifeline in crisscrosses along on your lifelines to keep the sail from snaking overboard. Have a softshackle on the pulpit to hold the tack.
I use a deckbag for the staysail, I like it. The bag goes around the inner forestay so it's all one piece on the foredeck till you hoist it, not something you'd do on a forestay bag though.
We do the sausage storage thing. As Shaggy mentioned rolling up a #1 and putting it back in sail bag is hard work. We stow ours tied to the safety rail while on a trip to keep down below clear otherwise the V berth gets cluttered. ie. To get the #1 down and stow slowly drop the halyard and flake the sail onto the deck. As it nears fully down pull the sheet a few times to make sure the foot is stretched out. Then tie it onto the bottom wires of the safety rail with several separate short lengths (1m each enough for us) of line using reef knots so its suspended off the deck like a sausage. The multiple shorts lengths is way easier to deal with than a single long length, Ages ago I tried Spectra halyards which didnt work and wound up with a roll of 5 mm spare. We cut it into a stock of short lengths which are handy for that and other jobs. Because Spectras kind of stiff and slippery its good for things you have to untie again. (The reason why I couldn't get it to work for halyards 
).
we have a rather long footed 1 and if changing down flake on deck into sausage bag roll from leach and stow below but have been know to lash to deck
Not sure what sort of conditions everyone sails in here but forget the idea of a headsail lashed to the deck or lifelines offshore in any sort of a blow. Anyone who has tried it will understand.
Select to expand quotesydchris said..
Not sure what sort of conditions everyone sails in here but forget the idea of a headsail lashed to the deck or lifelines offshore in any sort of a blow. Anyone who has tried it will understand.
Yep, I have had zero success at keeping sails on deck offshore in medium and above.
I sailed Auckland to Wellington with #1 tied to lifelines. It was unthinkable to put it up. #2 on other side often. Gale sometimes. Took one green swell over bow which completely filled cockpit. Sail stayed on fine. I don't know where "forget it" can come from when we had no issue. So I have tried it for one. It would be case by case.That was exactly when to lash it on deck and NOT open a hatch. It would be better if the sail was below but sometimes thats simply not possible or desirable. At that time the V berth was my computer room and no space for wet sails. . You need to lash it with a number of separate lines. As I mentioned keeping up it off the deck is important too so if you take a wave the wash goes under it. Reliability of these things depends on quality of the work! If it's not lashed well it will come loose and be a pain.
