Is it worthwhile putting Propspeed onto an exposed propeller shaft?
I get the concept of the rapid water movement past the propeller blades keeping them clean and the importance of keeping a prop, particularly a folding prop, free of any growth.
But if the prop shaft only rotates at, say, 3,000 RPM, what is the advantage of Propspeed over normal ablative antifouling?
It's always been included in the cost of coating the prop but this year I've been stung extra for coating the shaft which has prompted my question to the Brains Trust.
Yes, but the avaricious reptile should not charge extra for the shaft.
Usually $150.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
I had my shaft done, I was told it increases the life of the anode.
It certainly does if the shaft is coated with Propspeed before attaching the anode and you then coat the anode with the same.
It will last forever. I can't say the same for the metal components the anode is supposed to protect. 
Anodes are sacrificial.
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Yes, but the avaricious reptile should not charge extra for the shaft.
Usually $150.
Avaricious Reptile!! 
That is an apt name for all that take money from poor yachties.
Select to expand quotecisco said..sirgallivant said..
Yes, but the avaricious reptile should not charge extra for the shaft.
Usually $150.
Avaricious Reptile!! That is an apt name for all that take money from poor yachties.
Good one!
as a bit of an experiment i covered my stainless shaft in tape, then painted the tape with antifoul.
a recent check after nearly 12months there is no fouling and the tape is still attached. i guess time will tell
and next time i slip i will reassess.
Select to expand quoteGravy7 said..growth.
But if the prop shaft only rotates at, say, 3,000 RPM, what is the advantage of Propspeed over normal ablative antifouling?
Only 3000rpm ??? Surely not
1000rpm more like
Select to expand quoteHiko said..Gravy7 said..growth.
But if the prop shaft only rotates at, say, 3,000 RPM, what is the advantage of Propspeed over normal ablative antifouling?
Only 3000rpm ??? Surely not
1000rpm more like
assuming a 1" shaft, the surface is spinning at roughly 90 knots at 3000 rpm
or 30 knots at 1000 rpm
Marine gearboxes vary between 1.5:1 to 4:1 so if the Vinyl was cut into strips and applied like you were wrapping in tape it should be fine. Tips of propellers might be a problem.
My gear reduction is about 2:1 at 1200 engine rpm the prop is doing 600rpm, I ave no exposed shaft. When I haul out I've been slapping the same soft ablative on the prop and rudder, well you can all guess how long that last 
tho it does hang on good around the centre of the prop and the nut.
Do you think using a harder anti foul would make any difference on the prop and rudder ? Or should I just coat em I'm tallow ?
Select to expand quotewoko said..
My gear reduction is about 2:1 at 1200 engine rpm the prop is doing 600rpm, I ave no exposed shaft. When I haul out I've been slapping the same soft ablative on the prop and rudder, well you can all guess how long that last tho it does hang on good around the centre of the prop and the nut.
Do you think using a harder anti foul would make any difference on the prop and rudder ? Or should I just coat em I'm tallow ?
Don't bother with the tallow. Ablative on the hull and hard on the prop will be fine at those revs. My old fishing boat with ablative antifoul everywhere. 2:1 box and maximum engine rpm of 1000 but lots of time with the shaft rpm at 150. The paint would last probably 6 months!
Select to expand quoteRamona said..woko said..
My gear reduction is about 2:1 at 1200 engine rpm the prop is doing 600rpm, I ave no exposed shaft. When I haul out I've been slapping the same soft ablative on the prop and rudder, well you can all guess how long that last tho it does hang on good around the centre of the prop and the nut.
Do you think using a harder anti foul would make any difference on the prop and rudder ? Or should I just coat em I'm tallow ?
Don't bother with the tallow. Ablative on the hull and hard on the prop will be fine at those revs. My old fishing boat with ablative antifoul everywhere. 2:1 box and maximum engine rpm of 1000 but lots of time with the shaft rpm at 150. The paint would last probably 6 months!
love your fishing boat rammona
Select to expand quoteboty said..Ramona said..woko said..
My gear reduction is about 2:1 at 1200 engine rpm the prop is doing 600rpm, I ave no exposed shaft. When I haul out I've been slapping the same soft ablative on the prop and rudder, well you can all guess how long that last tho it does hang on good around the centre of the prop and the nut.
Do you think using a harder anti foul would make any difference on the prop and rudder ? Or should I just coat em I'm tallow ?
Don't bother with the tallow. Ablative on the hull and hard on the prop will be fine at those revs. My old fishing boat with ablative antifoul everywhere. 2:1 box and maximum engine rpm of 1000 but lots of time with the shaft rpm at 150. The paint would last probably 6 months!
love your fishing boat rammona
Thanks Ramona, I wasn't really goin to smear it in tallow ! The drive n steer gear on currency lass has trawler like set up
Select to expand quotewoko said..
Thanks Ramona, I wasn't really goin to smear it in tallow ! The drive n steer gear on currency lass has trawler like set up
I thought you may have been going to try Lanolin. I would just use a good metal primer on the prop and then antifoul of your choice. It's going to get shell after a few months but that looks like an easy dive with snorkeling gear to clean off.
I seem to be having success with Velox. There was nothing on the prop or shaft when I hauled out after 6 months in the water. Jury is still out, we will see what it is like after 12 months. Some people say it does not atay on, but I think that maybe they didn't follow the surface prep that is required.
