I'm not 100% happy with my boltrope slugs and not really at a stage where I can change the rig to track and car. My problem is the nylon slugs seem to jam when raising and lowering the main.
I replaced them with longer style slugs when I first purchaced the yacht but still no avail. I see the picture below the slugs have a wheel at the back of the slug , not sure on that purpose or if it would solve my problem.
I was thinking of wheels on the sides but so far are unable to track anything likewise. has anyone here got any recommendations to solve me problem?
Considering I need about 10 of them! What?
www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/product.asp?ProdNo=RC26460
Hi Southace
I saw a demo setup of this http://www.tidesmarine.com.au/product.php?id=sail at the wooden boat show a couple of years ago and it looked impressive
I think that HG is going to use it on his H28 so he may be able to give you some feedback and i believe the cost is around $40 per foot of mast height for the track and cars
I know you said you are not at the point where you can go track and car but it might be easier to spend the cash and fix it correctly the first time
Regards Don
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I'm not 100% happy with my boltrope slugs and not really at a stage where I can change the rig to track and car. My problem is the nylon slugs seem to jam when raising and lowering the main.
I replaced them with longer style slugs when I first purchaced the yacht but still no avail. I see the picture below the slugs have a wheel at the back of the slug , not sure on that purpose or if it would solve my problem.
I was thinking of wheels on the sides but so far are unable to track anything likewise. has anyone here got any recommendations to solve me problem?
G'day South,
The replacement slugs look pretty cool, have you tried them yet?
How bad does it jam, and is it in the same spot? Is it just a tug to release it?
We had a nick in the mast track on my old boat, ended up glueing sandpaper to a slug, tied it to the halyard and skull dragged it over the nick till it freed up.
I had the same problem. I ended up getting Rutgerson Battcars:
http://www.rutgerson.se/default.asp?id=10&ShowProduct=774&childto=&Group=104
I only got them for the batten ends, which seemed to be causing most of the trouble (I have a full-batten main). So I only needed four of them. Although I still need to spray the track with McLube once or twice a year (the intermediate slugs do still stick a bit), the system now works pretty well, and it was a very economical solution (they're about $70 each).
Sam Newton from AllMarine in Sydney was very helpful, although this was four years ago.
The ronston replacements are over $300 each I need about 10 of them!
i think it's something to do with the pre bend in my swept back spreader rig. If the mast was straight I wouldn't have such a problem.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
The ronston replacements are over $300 each I need about 10 of them!
i think it's something to do with the pre bend in my swept back spreader rig. If the mast was straight I wouldn't have such a problem.
Oooo....(insert Minion looking wide eyed) ....Ouch.
If it was prebend, just lengthening the slugs would make it worse wouldn't it?
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
Tides marine sail track maybe
ssca.org
www.myboatsgear.com/main.asp?page=5462
www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/40644-tides-marine-strong-mainsail-track-system.html
Can you show what the back of the mast looks like? Is the slug you're using the biggest that will fit into the track? Sometimes if the slug is too small it can pull into the opening just a bit and grab as it's being raised. If you're friends with a sailmaker up there they often have just about every slug type available on a little loop and you can try all types to get the one that's just right.
I've seen a few suggestions above but no one's mentioned the all slip slugs. I've found these to be pretty good but again, it depends on what the back end of the mast and track looks like to select the correct one.
www.bainbridgeint.com/Variants.aspx?Item=PRD-900072
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
The ronston replacements are over $300 each I need about 10 of them!
i think it's something to do with the pre bend in my swept back spreader rig. If the mast was straight I wouldn't have such a problem.
The main issue with slugs not sliding freely is to ensure the that the slug profile matches exactly with the internal track profile. The Ronstan roller cars are supplied with about 20 different track profile inserts. Most masts with the track incl in the extrusion profile have a "T" slot incorporated into the bolt rope profile and the inserts are selected to suit.
The full length batten cars slide well because the batten places the car in compression and the roller balls are effective. The intermediate cars are in tension when hoisting and the roller balls are ineffective. As the inserts are only about 6mm long separated by the car length of about 70 mm they wear heavily and tend to jam.
The other issue is the length of the cars, approx 75 mm results in a huge stack height of the lowered sail.
For my new "offshore" racing main I have CNC machined a set of slugs to suit the mast track profile exactly as the off the shelf slugs are not the correct profile. This allows for a jamb free fit in the T slot and a nice low stack height when reefed/ lowered.
i have as a result a set of 9 Ronstan cars which I no longer have a use for and would have been happy to give away.
unfortunately not to some Seabreeze members.
Select to expand quotesouthace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Select to expand quoteSectorsteve said..southace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Sanding the inside of the track is a really bad suggestion and shows a complete lack of knowledge. The mast is hard anodised which is an inherently low friction finish. Bare aluminium with the addition of some corrosion product is a high friction surface. The slugs will stick like **** to a blanket if you follow poor advice.
Select to expand quotefrant said..
Sectorsteve said..
southace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Sanding the inside of the track is a really bad suggestion and shows a complete lack of knowledge. The mast is hard anodised which is an inherently low friction finish. Bare aluminium with the addition of some corrosion product is a high friction surface. The slugs will stick like **** to a blanket if you follow poor advice.
G'day Frant,
I get what you mean, but the nick was pronounced, we sanded down the nick not the entire mast, and it worked flawlessly for the next 5 years.
BTW, there was no evidence of corrosion and wear 5 years later.
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..frant said..
Sectorsteve said..
southace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Sanding the inside of the track is a really bad suggestion and shows a complete lack of knowledge. The mast is hard anodised which is an inherently low friction finish. Bare aluminium with the addition of some corrosion product is a high friction surface. The slugs will stick like **** to a blanket if you follow poor advice.
G'day Rant,
I get what you mean, but the nick was pronounced, we sanded down the nick not the entire mast, and it worked flawlessly for the next 5 years.
BTW, there was no evidence of corrosion and wear 5 years later.
There is somewhat of a difference to smoothing over of a nick and sanding to free up sticky sections. The sticky sections are usually the result of built up grime and dust on the surface. Best washed clean with a rag soaked in thinners run up and down the inside of the track followed by a liberal spay with Teflon or silicon spray.
you have spelt my name incorrectly and I would appreciate if you can edit your post for correct spelling.
Select to expand quotefrant said..Sectorsteve said..southace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Sanding the inside of the track is a really bad suggestion and shows a complete lack of knowledge. The mast is hard anodised which is an inherently low friction finish. Bare aluminium with the addition of some corrosion product is a high friction surface. The slugs will stick like **** to a blanket if you follow poor advice.
f rant I'd be more inclined to listen to SB's advice, so say what you will. Sounds like a logical cheap possibly temp solution. This is all about solutions and not who's right.
Select to expand quoteSectorsteve said..frant said..Sectorsteve said..southace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Sanding the inside of the track is a really bad suggestion and shows a complete lack of knowledge. The mast is hard anodised which is an inherently low friction finish. Bare aluminium with the addition of some corrosion product is a high friction surface. The slugs will stick like **** to a blanket if you follow poor advice.
f rant I'd be more inclined to listen to SB's advice, so say what you will. Sounds like a logical cheap possibly temp solution. This is all about solutions and not who's right.
You my friend are clearly a fool. You would cause long term damage just because you don't like the person who is giving good advice.
Geez Frant,
I like you and always read your comments, you have some great points, but mate I have to tell your style of delivery can lose the message.
I am not trying to provoke a s*&^%fight, but it saddens me when you have a lot to offer, but you burr people up and the good intent gets lost. SS is not a fool, and the whole point of trying to educate or impart knowledge is to make your point sink home, not often successful with a bludgeon.
I'd welcome your opinion anytime mate, but if I could respectfully offer a suggestion, if someone does, accord them some modicum of respect and read the post carefully and quietly suggest an alternate pov. You seem like a good bloke with a perfectionist streak, I get that, but don't waste the opportunity to impart hard won knowledge.
Apologies for the thread hijack, now back to our regular programming....
SB
Select to expand quotefrant said..Sectorsteve said..frant said..Sectorsteve said..southace said...
I feel the shorter ones rock back and forth and jam. I recon a little wheel would be idea rather than a long slug on each attachment anyway I will look into it again when the sun comes out in a few months!.
The sandpaper idea would be worth a try as it may free up those sticky sections.
Sanding the inside of the track is a really bad suggestion and shows a complete lack of knowledge. The mast is hard anodised which is an inherently low friction finish. Bare aluminium with the addition of some corrosion product is a high friction surface. The slugs will stick like **** to a blanket if you follow poor advice.
f rant I'd be more inclined to listen to SB's advice, so say what you will. Sounds like a logical cheap possibly temp solution. This is all about solutions and not who's right.
You my friend are clearly a fool. You would cause long term damage just because you don't like the person who is giving good advice.
what you say about the tracks and sanding makes sense F rant and its noted.
It really isnt anything personal.
I dont listen to anyone who tells me anything based on their opinions, whats learned from books or what theyve heard etc.
I only want and ask for advice from people who have had actual experience with matters im concerned about.
Sectorsteve if you are true to your word and don't really have a personal issue then I take it that your ongoing offensive name calling will cease with an apology, Intentionally leaving a blank after the first letter of my name counts as a personal abuse. Up to you to display good faith.
Select to expand quotefrant said..
southace said..
The ronston replacements are over $300 each I need about 10 of them!
i think it's something to do with the pre bend in my swept back spreader rig. If the mast was straight I wouldn't have such a problem.
The main issue with slugs not sliding freely is to ensure the that the slug profile matches exactly with the internal track profile. The Ronstan roller cars are supplied with about 20 different track profile inserts. Most masts with the track incl in the extrusion profile have a "T" slot incorporated into the bolt rope profile and the inserts are selected to suit.
The full length batten cars slide well because the batten places the car in compression and the roller balls are effective. The intermediate cars are in tension when hoisting and the roller balls are ineffective. As the inserts are only about 6mm long separated by the car length of about 70 mm they wear heavily and tend to jam.
The other issue is the length of the cars, approx 75 mm results in a huge stack height of the lowered sail.
For my new "offshore" racing main I have CNC machined a set of slugs to suit the mast track profile exactly as the off the shelf slugs are not the correct profile. This allows for a jamb free fit in the T slot and a nice low stack height when reefed/ lowered.
i have as a result a set of 9 Ronstan cars which I no longer have a use for and would have been happy to give away.
unfortunately not to some Seabreeze members.
Hi Frant
Not sure if you have read the earlier posts but it look to me like Southace needs 10 of the cars in total and if you have 9 that you no longer need and are prepared to give away you could give them to him and then he would only have to buy 1 of them
Regards Don
To give away 9 x $300 + ronston slug cars would be like offering a stranger on a forum a second hand car....for freeeeee.
I find that very generous of you Frant.
unfortantly I don't belive everything I read on forums anymore.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
To give away 9 x $300 + ronston slug cars would be like offering a stranger on a forum a second hand car....for freeeeee.
I find that very generous of you Frant.
unfortantly I don't belive everything I read on forums anymore.
SA ye off little faith ! i,m certain that frant will give those cars away to a worthy recipient . I mean whats $2700 to someone as wealthy as fant . Small change right.
may be frant could run an online, free auction as someone else did on here to giveaway a small yacht recently ? just a thought .
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Ur a bad boy sandS !
i didn't do it ! its not my fault !!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
I'm not 100% happy with my boltrope slugs and not really at a stage where I can change the rig to track and car. My problem is the nylon slugs seem to jam when raising and lowering the main.
I replaced them with longer style slugs when I first purchaced the yacht but still no avail. I see the picture below the slugs have a wheel at the back of the slug , not sure on that purpose or if it would solve my problem.
I was thinking of wheels on the sides but so far are unable to track anything likewise. has anyone here got any recommendations to solve me problem?
OK, back on topic......
Really need pics of the mast but a few questions too....
Does the sail jam at the same spot on the way up and way down?
Is at a particular slug?
Is the main full batterned?
Are all your slugs like the bottom one?
Here are a range that are available in Aus, I can access all so if you want to try the ones with the rollers, let me know.
pnpa.com.au/products/index.php
But first you need to work out if the slugs are the problem.....
Select to expand quoteSandS said..southace said..
To give away 9 x $300 + ronston slug cars would be like offering a stranger on a forum a second hand car....for freeeeee.
I find that very generous of you Frant.
unfortantly I don't belive everything I read on forums anymore.
SA ye off little faith ! i,m certain that frant will give those cars away to a worthy recipient . I mean whats $2700 to someone as wealthy as fant . Small change right.
may be frant could run an online, free auction as someone else did on here to giveaway a small yacht recently ? just a thought .
Nah you guys are way off the mark. The cars retail for under US$100. I bought them in the US when the dollar was above parity so the second hand value is less than A$500. But not avail to anyone whose user name starts with S.
As Rumblefish has indicated and as I indicated in my original post on this matter the most important factor to have a free sliding slug is to ensure that the slide profile exactly matches the internal track profile.
It is extremely unlikely that the limited range of slugs available will match track profile and it is most expedient to CNC them yourself.
