What do you guys think about using a pad eye as a diverter since I have four spare I'm thinking this might be a option and will close if stepped on rather than stubbed toes?
The only thing I can think of is if you knot your headsail sheets it might prove a bit of a bugger to defoul?
It looks pretty straight run, probably work really well 
Knot my head sail lines? I can confirm that hasn't happend on my yachts. I can't see a problem so far it's only about 5 degree diverter. I will prefer a sheath block arrangement but I know how much that will cost!
Or for $20 at deckhardware....just put a short lash on it to your padeye.
I can attest you don't stub your toes on 'em either, but it will mess up your sidedecks a bit.
Edit: actually, they make a god awful racket if they bounce around, so I'd want a holdoff on it, so maybe not such a good idea.
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..
Or for $20 at deckhardware....just put a short lash on it to your padeye.
I can attest you don't stub your toes on 'em either, but it will mess up your sidedecks a bit.
Edit: actually, they make a god awful racket if they bounce around, so I'd want a holdoff on it, so maybe not such a good idea.
You mean that and a soft shackle of the pad eye? I would rather something like that horizontal on the deck with a single bolt. A turning block. Basicly.
I think as it loads up it closes on itself and jams. I seem to remember breaking a block once and running a furler line through one of these that happened to be in about the right spot. But it kept jamming on itself when under load.
I'm going back to the original set up once I modify the old car to fit on the new track. Maybe a pad eye aft before it goes to the turning block back onto the self tailor just to raise it of the deck a bit. Cheers.
Select to expand quotewoko said..
Hate to say it SA but that looks like a sheet chewing set up mate,
Why do you think that? Those cars are spring loaded the pivot inboard underload. I would prefer rollers on all 3 sides but they are expensive I'm thinking.
Personally, I would remove the rear car and put a relatively small turning block (or padeye) out near the stanchion, perhaps on or near the toe rail. Gives a better angle into the winch as well.
Select to expand quoteEC31 said..
Personally, I would remove the rear car and put a relatively small turning block (or padeye) out near the stanchion, perhaps on or near the toe rail. Gives a better angle into the winch as well.
I have a block on the aft Staunton post going up to the winches. It's easy to run a car system on smaller yachts but the length of sheet ropes double on larger yachts and so does the price. I will test it out over Christmas and see how it goes.
Yes that's exactly what we have - a block off the toerail leading nicely to the winch. If the stanchion base bent rod support stiffeners are strong enough shackle to one of them - or spectra lash to both or to the stanchion itself? Would suggest doing a trial with spectra lashing to the stanchion and a utilux clamp around the stanchion above the spectra lashing to stop it riding up.
Sorry didn't see your earlier post where you are trying a block off the stanchion - this looks fine? Albeit you have the sheet going around the block and back into the winch at around 90degrees which would probably overload that rod on the stanchion. I would go for the stanchion 1 fwd of the one in your photo to open out this sheet angle to avoid overloading the rod and stanchion.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..woko said..
Hate to say it SA but that looks like a sheet chewing set up mate,
Why do you think that? Those cars are spring loaded the pivot inboard underload. I would prefer rollers on all 3 sides but they are expensive I'm thinking.
Didn't look close enough,those pivoted, spring loaded ,nicely faired turning blocks would be just fine and dandy
Select to expand quotewoko said..southace said..woko said..
Hate to say it SA but that looks like a sheet chewing set up mate,
Why do you think that? Those cars are spring loaded the pivot inboard underload. I would prefer rollers on all 3 sides but they are expensive I'm thinking.
Didn't look close enough,those pivoted, spring loaded ,nicely faired turning blocks would be just fine and dandy
Better?
Port side new track fastened down tonight. Be aware if you if replace tracks from Ronstan T track from the original to the new design flat top (which seems to be the only available) that the holes are slightly out by a bees whisker as to the original track. I only just nailed it but had to run the tap at quite a angle for the last few bolts.
Also you can utilise old cars on the new track if you dremil cut the pin down on the car to allow it to operate in the new track sections.
Port jib car done! Why would you anodised stainless steel? And change the track style so you can't use old cars on new tracks with out modifying crazy but job done! I will bolt the aft tracks to the angle required and remove the spring loaded. I love boats!
