When u have a brand of boats and ill pick on Tophats they say the first model has better glass then the later models, as the years go by technology gets better youd think later models be stronger not necessarily so me thinks.
i had a timber gaff rigged day boat I restored, i glassed her ply hull from bottom off keel to the gunnels, shes still running around water tight as ever,
I have stashed away an 18 foot 40 s built strip planked putt putt ex snapper boat, the carvel system is fine but im going to use dynel on her hull rather then caulk it and rely on the old splines and screws to keep it together, dynel is the bees knees, lots of polyester resin last another 80 years, ill take glass over timber n steel any day with a yacht.
When u have a brand of boats and ill pick on Tophats they say the first model has better glass then the later models, as the years go by technology gets better youd think later models be stronger not necessarily so me thinks.
i had a timber gaff rigged day boat I restored, i glassed her ply hull from bottom off keel to the gunnels, shes still running around water tight as ever,
I have stashed away an 18 foot 40 s built strip planked putt putt ex snapper boat, the carvel system is fine but im going to use dynel on her hull rather then caulk it and rely on the old splines and screws to keep it together, dynel is the bees knees, lots of polyester resin last another 80 years, ill take glass over timber n steel any day with a yacht.





Personaly I would use lots of epoxy and re-spine her with spruce and epoxy like we did with our 1926 family yacht, still going strong after relaunch about 30 years ago. I would give polyester resins a wide berth with that type of restoration/sheathing.
When u have a brand of boats and ill pick on Tophats they say the first model has better glass then the later models, as the years go by technology gets better youd think later models be stronger not necessarily so me thinks.
i had a timber gaff rigged day boat I restored, i glassed her ply hull from bottom off keel to the gunnels, shes still running around water tight as ever,
I have stashed away an 18 foot 40 s built strip planked putt putt ex snapper boat, the carvel system is fine but im going to use dynel on her hull rather then caulk it and rely on the old splines and screws to keep it together, dynel is the bees knees, lots of polyester resin last another 80 years, ill take glass over timber n steel any day with a yacht.





Personaly I would use lots of epoxy and re-spine her with spruce and epoxy like we did with our 1926 family yacht, still going strong after relaunch about 30 years ago. I would give polyester resins a wide berth with that type of restoration/sheathing.
cant agree more most fiberglass hulls today are vinylester ,polyester has a place in swimming pools and eskys .when using timber only use epoxys polyester does not stick to timber very well dynel offers no strength to the structure so we favour 450biaxial with at330 twill over the top when sheathing timber hulls
When u have a brand of boats and ill pick on Tophats they say the first model has better glass then the later models, as the years go by technology gets better youd think later models be stronger not necessarily so me thinks.
i had a timber gaff rigged day boat I restored, i glassed her ply hull from bottom off keel to the gunnels, shes still running around water tight as ever,
I have stashed away an 18 foot 40 s built strip planked putt putt ex snapper boat, the carvel system is fine but im going to use dynel on her hull rather then caulk it and rely on the old splines and screws to keep it together, dynel is the bees knees, lots of polyester resin last another 80 years, ill take glass over timber n steel any day with a yacht.





Personaly I would use lots of epoxy and re-spine her with spruce and epoxy like we did with our 1926 family yacht, still going strong after relaunch about 30 years ago. I would give polyester resins a wide berth with that type of restoration/sheathing.
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